130i vibration
Discussion
Hi All,
I've got an LCI 130i that in the last year has had:
- E92 M3 rear subframe with refurbished Mfactory DCT LSD from a 49k mile car, new rear Bilstein suspension and brakes - both calipers in good condition
- shortened rear propshaft (from the same M3)
- new centre prop bearing
- Valeo solid flywheel (SMF)
- refurbished F series M-lite front 4 pot Brembo brakes with new Brembo discs and pads
- new bearings on the front
- M3 front LCA's
- brake fluid flush and replacement, followed by another flush and replaced with dot 5
The front suspension is only a couple of years old but standard Msport springs and dampers. The car is clean underneath, is well specced, and serviced regularly (oil every ~6k miles). With all of the changes I've made to the car it's a joy to drive, there's no wheelspin and it has grip everywhere wet or dry. The diff feels good and run's smoothly on the ramp - the garage even checked it with a stethoscope. With tyres I previously ran PS4s all round but the rears got low (they lasted 11k miles) so I've replaced them with Goodyear Asymmetric 5's and will change the fronts to them when they get low too.
With all of this done I still have a vibration at motorway speeds. It's been there for a while and throughout most of the changes above. I've had it back to the same BMW Indy (who've done most of the work except cosmetic mods and exhaust) to take the car and check it over several times. I've had the alignment checked by three different places. The 320si style 216m wheels were refurbed last year too (no buckles) and wheels have been balanced several times - I check the tyre pressures once a month. I've tried driving it with my spare 208m's fitted. And the MoT didn't pick anything up either.
Before I sink a grand on coilovers I'd like to try get rid of the vibration. What could be causing it? The E92 subframe had minimal marks on it (no rust, just needed a clean from being transported on a pallet) and bushes all looked fresh. I bought it from a reputable BMW breaker for a good price. Could it be a rogue bush or a mount somewhere? Now, I've just relocated and will be taking it to another BMW Indy. Has anyone else ever experienced a similar issue? What did you do to resolve it?
I've got an LCI 130i that in the last year has had:
- E92 M3 rear subframe with refurbished Mfactory DCT LSD from a 49k mile car, new rear Bilstein suspension and brakes - both calipers in good condition
- shortened rear propshaft (from the same M3)
- new centre prop bearing
- Valeo solid flywheel (SMF)
- refurbished F series M-lite front 4 pot Brembo brakes with new Brembo discs and pads
- new bearings on the front
- M3 front LCA's
- brake fluid flush and replacement, followed by another flush and replaced with dot 5
The front suspension is only a couple of years old but standard Msport springs and dampers. The car is clean underneath, is well specced, and serviced regularly (oil every ~6k miles). With all of the changes I've made to the car it's a joy to drive, there's no wheelspin and it has grip everywhere wet or dry. The diff feels good and run's smoothly on the ramp - the garage even checked it with a stethoscope. With tyres I previously ran PS4s all round but the rears got low (they lasted 11k miles) so I've replaced them with Goodyear Asymmetric 5's and will change the fronts to them when they get low too.
With all of this done I still have a vibration at motorway speeds. It's been there for a while and throughout most of the changes above. I've had it back to the same BMW Indy (who've done most of the work except cosmetic mods and exhaust) to take the car and check it over several times. I've had the alignment checked by three different places. The 320si style 216m wheels were refurbed last year too (no buckles) and wheels have been balanced several times - I check the tyre pressures once a month. I've tried driving it with my spare 208m's fitted. And the MoT didn't pick anything up either.
Before I sink a grand on coilovers I'd like to try get rid of the vibration. What could be causing it? The E92 subframe had minimal marks on it (no rust, just needed a clean from being transported on a pallet) and bushes all looked fresh. I bought it from a reputable BMW breaker for a good price. Could it be a rogue bush or a mount somewhere? Now, I've just relocated and will be taking it to another BMW Indy. Has anyone else ever experienced a similar issue? What did you do to resolve it?
I would check:
Rear wheel bearings
Prop guibo
Driveshaft CV joints
May be more things that would cause it but thats all I can think of atm.
Shortened props can be a nightmare and sometimes dont balance properly despite what the person doing the work may say. I would also make sure it has been shortened the correct amount, and A) isn't marginally too long meaning it's unable to run completely straight with the front half at the UJs or B) isn't too short with spline showing. With the former, of course you would notice if it was significantly out however if it is out by only a tiny amount it may be enough for it to not spin true, particularly if it is out enough to take up any available slack from the diff or gearbox end.
If all the above seems okay I would jack the rear up and run it in 6th gear and have a look underneath - obviously be mindful of your safety but I have done this before to find a rotational drivetrain knock on my old E36.
Does the vibration change under load? Is it purely speed dependant, and does it consistently get worse with speed, or does it tail off above a certain speed?
Rear wheel bearings
Prop guibo
Driveshaft CV joints
May be more things that would cause it but thats all I can think of atm.
Shortened props can be a nightmare and sometimes dont balance properly despite what the person doing the work may say. I would also make sure it has been shortened the correct amount, and A) isn't marginally too long meaning it's unable to run completely straight with the front half at the UJs or B) isn't too short with spline showing. With the former, of course you would notice if it was significantly out however if it is out by only a tiny amount it may be enough for it to not spin true, particularly if it is out enough to take up any available slack from the diff or gearbox end.
If all the above seems okay I would jack the rear up and run it in 6th gear and have a look underneath - obviously be mindful of your safety but I have done this before to find a rotational drivetrain knock on my old E36.
Does the vibration change under load? Is it purely speed dependant, and does it consistently get worse with speed, or does it tail off above a certain speed?
Edited by Gooly on Monday 4th January 00:04
When my 125i suffered from this it turned out to be a stuck rear brake caliper. Had a vibration that was going through the car, but the steering wheel was fine, pointing us to the back axle. Quick touch of the rear wheel after a run confirmed the problem.
Had to do both calipers in the end, don't think they were much coin at all.
Had to do both calipers in the end, don't think they were much coin at all.
Although my car is not modified, I do have a vibration also whilst driving above 50 mph.
Car is currently at BMW, however this is now the second day of them looking through the car, and they unable to find the source of the vibration.
I did recommend prop shaft, and drive shaft as potential issue areas but nothing. Master technician is taking the car home today to see if he can find anything on a prolonged drive.
Very frustrating to say the least
Car is currently at BMW, however this is now the second day of them looking through the car, and they unable to find the source of the vibration.
I did recommend prop shaft, and drive shaft as potential issue areas but nothing. Master technician is taking the car home today to see if he can find anything on a prolonged drive.
Very frustrating to say the least
DaveE87 said:
Thanks for the suggestions guys. The vibration does get really bad at license-losing speeds but progressively and not always consistent. I'll see what the new garage say.
If its of any help, ive got my car back after suffering very similar issues to your car. The issue was the axle struts tensioners being damaged.Both sides were replaced by bmw main dealer at £814
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