3 in 1 Tiliting adjustment car lift
Discussion
Hi,
Has anyone got one of these in their garage? Any good ?
I'm considering Quick Jacks as well but they are quite a bit more expensive. I could get an air compressor for the difference...
My only concern is with other jacking solutions you get rubber blocks to put on the jacking points. This version seems to spread the weight across the pinchweld sills which were never factory jacking points. All the pictures and videos I see don't seem to have a problem though.
https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/3in1-tilting-...
Has anyone got one of these in their garage? Any good ?
I'm considering Quick Jacks as well but they are quite a bit more expensive. I could get an air compressor for the difference...
My only concern is with other jacking solutions you get rubber blocks to put on the jacking points. This version seems to spread the weight across the pinchweld sills which were never factory jacking points. All the pictures and videos I see don't seem to have a problem though.
https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/3in1-tilting-...
_Mja_ said:
Hi,
Has anyone got one of these in their garage? Any good ?
I'm considering Quick Jacks as well but they are quite a bit more expensive. I could get an air compressor for the difference...
My only concern is with other jacking solutions you get rubber blocks to put on the jacking points. This version seems to spread the weight across the pinchweld sills which were never factory jacking points. All the pictures and videos I see don't seem to have a problem though.
https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/3in1-tilting-...
Yes, still have one. Never had an issue with them but do yourself a favour and get a high-torque drill! Winding them up and down by hand with the provided handle takes an age!Has anyone got one of these in their garage? Any good ?
I'm considering Quick Jacks as well but they are quite a bit more expensive. I could get an air compressor for the difference...
My only concern is with other jacking solutions you get rubber blocks to put on the jacking points. This version seems to spread the weight across the pinchweld sills which were never factory jacking points. All the pictures and videos I see don't seem to have a problem though.
https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/3in1-tilting-...
I found mine could be left on the maximum width setting and was still suited to most cars as you get some movement on the sill plates.
They are also handy if you find the perfect pivot point weight wise as you can, for example, tilt the car purely by hand with either the front up in the air or the back up in the air once raised. For the majority of jobs however you will just leave most of the weight at the front or rear as this gives you a little more height once tilted.
I have had several items now relating to getting a car into the air and despite upgrading to a mid-rise lift, still keep a set of these around.
And a few of my other devices...
Garage display tilt ramps...
Current lift...
DO get yourself a decent drill though!
I had a Dewalt one as my cheaper one wasn't man enough. The smoother the ground, the easier it will have to work.
You may also find low cars can cause issues as the ramps won't slide underneath. I got my first ever set second hand and the chap had built them into the floor so to speak by building a wooden floor around them. That said, a small set of low ramps to raise low cars is often enough to be able to slide these lifts underneath.
I used these for low cars...
Edited by Digby on Sunday 10th January 14:16
You can see where the drill is in this snap.
I honestly can't stress enough the importance of doing it this way. Not only does it allow you to need a lot less room
to wind them up or down (the manual handle is quite large) but it saves massive, massive amounts of time and energy!
You need to keep a good grip on the drill, too. It will try to spin in your hand, so be ready. I used to just rest the handle on the floor
depnding on which way I was winding and then use minimum effort to just keep it straight in the tilt ramp chuck socket.
That will make perfect sense should you get a set.
I honestly can't stress enough the importance of doing it this way. Not only does it allow you to need a lot less room
to wind them up or down (the manual handle is quite large) but it saves massive, massive amounts of time and energy!
You need to keep a good grip on the drill, too. It will try to spin in your hand, so be ready. I used to just rest the handle on the floor
depnding on which way I was winding and then use minimum effort to just keep it straight in the tilt ramp chuck socket.
That will make perfect sense should you get a set.
Edited by Digby on Sunday 10th January 14:29
And here's an example of finding the perfect pivot point.
In this snap, as dodgy as it looks, I could remove the blue bar from the front of the car, walk to the rear, lift the rear by
hand and the car would tilt forward leaving said rear in the air. The engine weight would be enough to keep it there.
If I wanted the front raised again, I would lift the front or push down on the rear bumper and probably throw a spare wheel
in the boot for weight or, do as I did here and just put a bar in etc.
The bar isn't holding the car up, it's just there to stop the tilt.
When set perfectly, even if the bar wasn't there and the ramps were a little lower, the car tilting whilst you were under it
would result in nothing more than you pushing it back out of the way. It wouldn't crush you or even give you a bruise!
The pivot point relating to weight has to be pefrect, though so getting it set in such a way can take some time and you would obviously
do so whilst much lower to the ground.
In this snap, as dodgy as it looks, I could remove the blue bar from the front of the car, walk to the rear, lift the rear by
hand and the car would tilt forward leaving said rear in the air. The engine weight would be enough to keep it there.
If I wanted the front raised again, I would lift the front or push down on the rear bumper and probably throw a spare wheel
in the boot for weight or, do as I did here and just put a bar in etc.
The bar isn't holding the car up, it's just there to stop the tilt.
When set perfectly, even if the bar wasn't there and the ramps were a little lower, the car tilting whilst you were under it
would result in nothing more than you pushing it back out of the way. It wouldn't crush you or even give you a bruise!
The pivot point relating to weight has to be pefrect, though so getting it set in such a way can take some time and you would obviously
do so whilst much lower to the ground.
Thanks Digby for the photos and knowledge. It does look pretty good! Unfortunatley or fortuntatley I decided to buy a set of kiwk jacks in the end (copy of quickjack).
https://www.garageequipment.co.uk/Vehicle-Lifts/Sc...
On reflection i thought my garage wouldn't be wide enough for the tiliting lift (3.3m wide) although looking at your first picture with the 206 perhaps it would have worked.
https://www.garageequipment.co.uk/Vehicle-Lifts/Sc...
On reflection i thought my garage wouldn't be wide enough for the tiliting lift (3.3m wide) although looking at your first picture with the 206 perhaps it would have worked.
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff