Discussion
My Griff is reading a fault code no 68. Anyone able to confirm what this is? I think it is purge valve but I'm not sure.
If it is purge valve, I believe it may be caused by one of:
1) faulty electrics/wiring on/to the valve itself
2) a blockage in the pipe running to/from the carbon can
3) faulty carbon can/it being full of fuel
Someone told me that if you overfill the fuel tank you can inadvertently get fuel down the breather pipes and over time fill the carbon can. Anyone any thoughts on this?
If the can is full of fuel can I just empty it out or do I need a new one?
According to the Griff bible the can comes out through a hatch behind the washer bottle. Is it easier to go through the headlamp access hatch in the wheel arch?
Thanks in advance
Andy
If it is purge valve, I believe it may be caused by one of:
1) faulty electrics/wiring on/to the valve itself
2) a blockage in the pipe running to/from the carbon can
3) faulty carbon can/it being full of fuel
Someone told me that if you overfill the fuel tank you can inadvertently get fuel down the breather pipes and over time fill the carbon can. Anyone any thoughts on this?
If the can is full of fuel can I just empty it out or do I need a new one?
According to the Griff bible the can comes out through a hatch behind the washer bottle. Is it easier to go through the headlamp access hatch in the wheel arch?
Thanks in advance
Andy
I think you will find that 68 is faulty road speed sensor input and nothing to do with the purge tank. Although if you want a real fun time I can recommend taking it out and putting it back just for the sheer joy of struggling with such a stupid place to put it although when yopu come to think about it, there is not much else space to put it!
Thanks Steve.
Interesting. Kings told me it was reading a purge valve fault code, but didn't actually tell me which code it was.
When I was at Thames Valley Racetech the other day (after hours) I borrowed their fault code meter to check and it read 68. Unfortunately the reference books were under lock and key by that time, hence I wasn't sure what the code meant.
Road speed sensor makes more sense. The car stalls sometimes when I brake for junctions - depress the clutch and it stalls - other times its fine.
Presumably there is a road speed input to the ECU and if the sensor is faulty that could be causing my problems?
I was starting to get a bit frustrated by this after a new cam, coil and stepper motor (although fortunately I only actually paid for the coil, which I truly buggered at Performance Technique).
As I don't have your book to hand can I ask some more Q's?
I think the road speed sensor is on the diff? Is it easy to replace and is it a standard part? Or are you going to tell me that its matched to the speedo (which incidently is working fine) and therefore requires some typically TVR buggering about?
Thanks
Andy
Interesting. Kings told me it was reading a purge valve fault code, but didn't actually tell me which code it was.
When I was at Thames Valley Racetech the other day (after hours) I borrowed their fault code meter to check and it read 68. Unfortunately the reference books were under lock and key by that time, hence I wasn't sure what the code meant.
Road speed sensor makes more sense. The car stalls sometimes when I brake for junctions - depress the clutch and it stalls - other times its fine.
Presumably there is a road speed input to the ECU and if the sensor is faulty that could be causing my problems?
I was starting to get a bit frustrated by this after a new cam, coil and stepper motor (although fortunately I only actually paid for the coil, which I truly buggered at Performance Technique).
As I don't have your book to hand can I ask some more Q's?
I think the road speed sensor is on the diff? Is it easy to replace and is it a standard part? Or are you going to tell me that its matched to the speedo (which incidently is working fine) and therefore requires some typically TVR buggering about?
Thanks
Andy
Reminds me of a Jaguar that suddenly flashed up the warning 'Fuel Failure'. Startled owner immediately pulled of road, called dealer etc. before it blew up.
Turned out that the speedo had failed. The computer saw that fuel was disappearing but that the speed was zero. Hence it diagnosed a fuel leak and put the red lights on....
Turned out that the speedo had failed. The computer saw that fuel was disappearing but that the speed was zero. Hence it diagnosed a fuel leak and put the red lights on....
Unless you have an oscilloscope you cannoit reliable test for a problem because you can't see the pulses. Using a meter might show something but if it doesn't you still don't know if the sensor or wiring is faulty. If the speedo is still working then the chances are that the sensor is fine but the problem is a connection or inside the ECU. Yes the sensors are matched and they are expensive to replace without checking first. Can be £150 a go.
Steve
Steve
quote:
the chances are that the sensor is fine but the problem is a connection or inside the ECU. Yes the sensors are matched and they are expensive to replace without checking first. Can be £150 a go.
Steve
Thanks Steve. Sounds beyond my limited capabilities. With my uck it won't just be a dodgy earth, it'll be the ECU.... :wringshandsindespairatmorewalletemptyingactivities:
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