These testing times
Discussion
Hi all, You all probably know the problems I have been having recently. It still refuses to start. Having done all that has been suggested it seems that the time has come to make a decision. Whether to carry on or cut my losses now. The way it is going I will not be at the BBWF.
I am trying to think what it could be but am running out of possibilities. The underlying question is " why is it so unreliable ". Is it the culmination of old technology or just poor electrical components.
Is it worth re-wiring the whole car and trying to incorporate "new technolgy". Why is it that I can leave my Mazda outside for years and get in it and it starts first time, whereas a TVR inside a garage starts one day and will not start the next.
I am trying to think what it could be but am running out of possibilities. The underlying question is " why is it so unreliable ". Is it the culmination of old technology or just poor electrical components.
Is it worth re-wiring the whole car and trying to incorporate "new technolgy". Why is it that I can leave my Mazda outside for years and get in it and it starts first time, whereas a TVR inside a garage starts one day and will not start the next.
I can sympathise, as I've been in that position in the past myself. I've usually found that there is something I've thought I've checked and haven't. I suggest you trawl through the suggestions you've been given on this site and maybe by others, write them all down, and put them in order with the simplest / easiest first. Then leave it for a few days while you calm down - have a few beers, watch a bit of telly, go to the gym etc. When you've done that, go back to your pride and joy and go through each item in turn.
If you still can't find the problem, strip the car down into smaller bits advertise them on ebay and use the proceeds to buy another Wedge.
NIL DESPERANDUM
If you still can't find the problem, strip the car down into smaller bits advertise them on ebay and use the proceeds to buy another Wedge.
NIL DESPERANDUM
Sorry to hear of your continnuing trouble. I take mine to a Landrover specialist in Neath for engine tune ups and diagnostics. www.lewislandrovers.co.uk/
Simon there knows his RV8 and has all the equipment necessary. Mine's going in for a tune up, new plugs etc before BBWF. Worth a try?
Simon there knows his RV8 and has all the equipment necessary. Mine's going in for a tune up, new plugs etc before BBWF. Worth a try?
It sounds like one easy / cheap option could be shove some carbs on it !
With mine when I had a similar problem it would start and then die after 2/ 3 seconds. It turned out the dissy / timing was not set up correctly.
So after buying a few basic tools, like TDC tool, making sure the compresion was there on the No 1 cylinder and then lining the dissy up, putting leads in correct order it ran enough to get tuned properly
With mine when I had a similar problem it would start and then die after 2/ 3 seconds. It turned out the dissy / timing was not set up correctly.
So after buying a few basic tools, like TDC tool, making sure the compresion was there on the No 1 cylinder and then lining the dissy up, putting leads in correct order it ran enough to get tuned properly
Hey, wots wrong with essex ?
Incidentally do you have an immobiliser fitted?
That was the source of intermittent faults on my 1986 350. Also note that much of the fuse box contains 30Amp fuses in holders rated at 16 Amps, keep an eye on the Ignition fuse, top right, as it can become flakey - the fuse body gets a bit melty if the connectors are not 100%.
-Jim
Incidentally do you have an immobiliser fitted?
That was the source of intermittent faults on my 1986 350. Also note that much of the fuse box contains 30Amp fuses in holders rated at 16 Amps, keep an eye on the Ignition fuse, top right, as it can become flakey - the fuse body gets a bit melty if the connectors are not 100%.
-Jim
adam quantrill said:
I've seen quad Alfa carbs on a Rover engine before. You need two donor Alfa Sud's.
I am pretty sure on the V8 Rover SD1 (non EFI) that the carb setup was either 2 or 4 2" SU carbs.
These should be easier (and cheaper) to find than a set of Twin choke Webber's. They are also incredibly easy to setup. The hardest part would be the inlet manifold but as a standard part shouldn't be too hard.
This will likely reduce the power and probably involve a remapping of the ECU (I don;t know how possible this is).
I guess the upshot is that you will need soemone with the right equipment, which means a garage.
Tim.
Does it have a spark ( test with someone else cranking engine over and you holding plug with rubber glove against block)
If Ok then check fuel pressure with a suitable gauge (0-3Bar) and Tee into fuel line ( I use the supply to the start up injector) If you have spark and there's fuel pressure during cranking (should be around 2.2 / 2.5Bar) If theres all of this then check the ignition timing by setting the dizzy up so the toothed wheel under the rotor arm points towards the centre of the sensor, with the crank pulley on 8° BTDC, with the rotor pointing toward no.1 cylinder.
If all of this is OK then check the injectors are opening by plugging in a spare injector ( check resistances are the same 1st) and holding it in your had it should click on and off during cranking.
If all of this is Ok then its time for a compression check and to take the rocker covers off to check something drastic hasn't happen like a broken camshaft
Best of luck
If Ok then check fuel pressure with a suitable gauge (0-3Bar) and Tee into fuel line ( I use the supply to the start up injector) If you have spark and there's fuel pressure during cranking (should be around 2.2 / 2.5Bar) If theres all of this then check the ignition timing by setting the dizzy up so the toothed wheel under the rotor arm points towards the centre of the sensor, with the crank pulley on 8° BTDC, with the rotor pointing toward no.1 cylinder.
If all of this is OK then check the injectors are opening by plugging in a spare injector ( check resistances are the same 1st) and holding it in your had it should click on and off during cranking.
If all of this is Ok then its time for a compression check and to take the rocker covers off to check something drastic hasn't happen like a broken camshaft
Best of luck
Also - is the solenoid on the starter the type that bypasses a ballast resistor to the coil? If it is, and the bypass isn't working, the coild volts could be too low during cranking.
It's a good idea to measure the volts to the distributor during cranking anyway, to make sure there is enough for the coil to work with.
Dodgy earth straps can cause problems here, don't forget the one by the gearbox, that's quite often left flapping about and shouldn't be.
Best to undo each earth strap a bit, wiggle it, then do it up tight.
It's a good idea to measure the volts to the distributor during cranking anyway, to make sure there is enough for the coil to work with.
Dodgy earth straps can cause problems here, don't forget the one by the gearbox, that's quite often left flapping about and shouldn't be.
Best to undo each earth strap a bit, wiggle it, then do it up tight.
Just trying another simple check: is the drive to the dizzy still ok. As these are known to get 'disengaged' or broken. And would cause any corrected setup of the ignition to fail.
Also the weights in the dizzy can cause important problems.
Second that fuses and earth straps can be a nightmare.
If you consider carbs. Find a SD1 V8 with carbs (they have 2 SUs), and you have everything to convert it.
Rob
Also the weights in the dizzy can cause important problems.
Second that fuses and earth straps can be a nightmare.
If you consider carbs. Find a SD1 V8 with carbs (they have 2 SUs), and you have everything to convert it.
Rob
Hello
From reading all your posts on this it's rather sounding like a wiring issue, likely to be with the coil supply. I'd reccomend making a loom from scratch directly to and from the battery to eliminate any bad earths etc. If you need a wiring diagram for the car drop me a mail and I'll post you a copy. Also check the engine earth strap, if in any doubt add another directly to the battery earth.
Also you don't mention in your posts about injector activity other than the plugs are getting wet the power resistor pack on the wing has been known to give problems and its easy to check.
This will be fixable - keep at it
Matt
From reading all your posts on this it's rather sounding like a wiring issue, likely to be with the coil supply. I'd reccomend making a loom from scratch directly to and from the battery to eliminate any bad earths etc. If you need a wiring diagram for the car drop me a mail and I'll post you a copy. Also check the engine earth strap, if in any doubt add another directly to the battery earth.
Also you don't mention in your posts about injector activity other than the plugs are getting wet the power resistor pack on the wing has been known to give problems and its easy to check.
This will be fixable - keep at it
Matt
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