eBaying whilst drinking - Bristol Hercules
Discussion
I really should lock my phone away when I am drinking.
Last week I noticed a listing for a significant section of a Bristol Hercules engine and prop hub. The engine section is the supercharger housing with the various drives and oil centrifuges together with the carb (minus the air intake which would have sat on top).
As I had ‘watched’ the listing I received an offer price from the seller which after 4 pints seemed reasonable.
Sadly there is no history other than the dealer recalls being told that it came from an early Lancaster (so a B.II if he is right) that crashed north of Preston.
The prop hub is a single piece and for 3 blades. Looking at pictures of similar recovered Hercules this type certainly was used on Wellingtons, however I can’t seem to identify from my books the different prop types that would have been fitted.
At the front of the hub is a unit which I presume is the feathering unit? The aviation forum I used to use for asking these questions has died a death so thought I would ask on here following the informative replies to my post on what turned out to be a Derwent turbine.
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/G92NHkHN.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/7ugshT4m" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/7ugshT4m.jpg)
Last week I noticed a listing for a significant section of a Bristol Hercules engine and prop hub. The engine section is the supercharger housing with the various drives and oil centrifuges together with the carb (minus the air intake which would have sat on top).
As I had ‘watched’ the listing I received an offer price from the seller which after 4 pints seemed reasonable.
Sadly there is no history other than the dealer recalls being told that it came from an early Lancaster (so a B.II if he is right) that crashed north of Preston.
The prop hub is a single piece and for 3 blades. Looking at pictures of similar recovered Hercules this type certainly was used on Wellingtons, however I can’t seem to identify from my books the different prop types that would have been fitted.
At the front of the hub is a unit which I presume is the feathering unit? The aviation forum I used to use for asking these questions has died a death so thought I would ask on here following the informative replies to my post on what turned out to be a Derwent turbine.
lufbramatt said:
Interesting to see the seemingly quite small gear wheels inside. You wouldn't think they would be strong enough to deal with the forces involved.
I found the same image as well which drew me to the same conclusion that it was a Rotol electrically operated airscrew.
Interestingly the B.II was the only version of the Lancaster fitted with a Rotol constant speed unit, I also found a further reference that mentions that these were electrically operated rather than hydraulic.
So the background from the seller seems to be backed up, i.e it is the right airscrew that was used for that type of aircraft. Only 27 B.II were equipped with Hercules VI, the majority having XVI's - although I'm not sure there is enough of the engine left to confirm which version it is. The remains of the carb may give some pointers.
All circumstantial though as this type of engine/airscrew combination must have been used across a number of types including the Wellington.
Ahhh ok, didn't realise part of the engine was still attached to the prop hub.
Pretty sure the Hercules wasn't fitted to any US types. I think Lancaster, Wellington, Halifax, Beaufighter, Hastings, late Sunderlands? some early post war types too such as Vickers Varsity but I think they used different 4 bladed propellers
Pretty sure the Hercules wasn't fitted to any US types. I think Lancaster, Wellington, Halifax, Beaufighter, Hastings, late Sunderlands? some early post war types too such as Vickers Varsity but I think they used different 4 bladed propellers
I'm hoping that if I can pin down the engine variant, together with the prop hub I should be able to narrow down the possibilities at least of type.
The carb and magneto types might help with this but it will depend on what's left and recognisable.
I might see if there are any aviation recovery groups on FB as see if anyone recognises the parts as they must have been dug up or pulled from the sea somewhere.
The carb and magneto types might help with this but it will depend on what's left and recognisable.
I might see if there are any aviation recovery groups on FB as see if anyone recognises the parts as they must have been dug up or pulled from the sea somewhere.
I am planning to clean it up, although at the moment I'm not sure how to approach it as I would rather not use anything too abrasive, bit of a balance between keeping its history and cleaning.
It looks like its been dug out of the ground then left outside for a while,
The 4 pint boldness was worth it, these things are unfortunately worth more when they are stripped to the component parts, or even worse, cut up and sold off in chunks so I'm happy a dealer didn't get their hands on it.
It looks like its been dug out of the ground then left outside for a while,
The 4 pint boldness was worth it, these things are unfortunately worth more when they are stripped to the component parts, or even worse, cut up and sold off in chunks so I'm happy a dealer didn't get their hands on it.
Yertis said:
Well congratulations on a great eBay purchase. What are your plans for it? Would look great polished up.
The seller has just offered me a (used not relic) Armstrong Siddeley Cheetah - collecting radials could be a expensive pastime but would make a cracking display cleaned up together........... Simpo Two said:
Krupp88 said:
The seller has just offered me a (used not relic) Armstrong Siddeley Cheetah - collecting radials could be a expensive pastime but would make a cracking display cleaned up together...........
How many pints needed to buy? Is it a four-pint purchase or more...? 
I had an old 1920s bench mounted lathe that had been ignored and neglected and was badly rusted.
I wanted to restore it but not blast or sand it because its too destructive to the surfaces so I dipped it in a 1part citric acid to 10 parts warm water mix and over a weekend I kept it agitated and brushed off with a toothbrush while in the mix, I then washed it off with the pressure washer and dried it with compressed air.
After some linseed oil it looked almost new but still had all the casting marks and machining marks. It had no rust.
5 or 6 years later it still looks the same!
I wanted to restore it but not blast or sand it because its too destructive to the surfaces so I dipped it in a 1part citric acid to 10 parts warm water mix and over a weekend I kept it agitated and brushed off with a toothbrush while in the mix, I then washed it off with the pressure washer and dried it with compressed air.
After some linseed oil it looked almost new but still had all the casting marks and machining marks. It had no rust.
5 or 6 years later it still looks the same!
Getragdogleg said:
I had an old 1920s bench mounted lathe that had been ignored and neglected and was badly rusted.
I wanted to restore it but not blast or sand it because its too destructive to the surfaces so I dipped it in a 1part citric acid to 10 parts warm water mix and over a weekend I kept it agitated and brushed off with a toothbrush while in the mix, I then washed it off with the pressure washer and dried it with compressed air.
After some linseed oil it looked almost new but still had all the casting marks and machining marks. It had no rust.
5 or 6 years later it still looks the same!
Thank you for the tip, I will give that a try. I had discounted the use of sandblasting for the same reason, same with using brick acid which I used to use for bits I had found in my diving days.I wanted to restore it but not blast or sand it because its too destructive to the surfaces so I dipped it in a 1part citric acid to 10 parts warm water mix and over a weekend I kept it agitated and brushed off with a toothbrush while in the mix, I then washed it off with the pressure washer and dried it with compressed air.
After some linseed oil it looked almost new but still had all the casting marks and machining marks. It had no rust.
5 or 6 years later it still looks the same!
Krupp88 said:
Thank you for the tip, I will give that a try. I had discounted the use of sandblasting for the same reason, same with using brick acid which I used to use for bits I had found in my diving days.
If Wheeler Dealers is to be believed, you don't have to use sand. Tiny glass beads do a softer job apparently.Gassing Station | Boats, Planes & Trains | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff