996tt brake pipes replaced after brake failure

[Brian_996TT]

i was on the way home and the brake pedal went spongy so i knew i had a problem. i took a look underneath and saw brake fluid dripping from the under tray near the n/s/r wheel. it had rotted where it clipped into the chassis so i got the genuine pipe for the short side and the o/s/r is nls so i got a custom made braided line for over the gearbox.

Then i started removing the brake calliper bleed points with lots of plus gas and small hammer taps and lots of waiting then a 1/2 inch T bar and got all 8 out but one on the n/s/f had rust on the bottom of the bleeder so the new stainless steel bleeder leaks out the top hole.

The front hard lines are getting replaced too and again the long one to the o/s/f is nls and i ordered the short n/s/f and i got new braided flexes to replace the standard rubber.

Brake calliper top mounting bolts are common to damage the alloy threads so i want to remove them carefully now rather than wait years later and i’m replacing all the exhaust bolts and nuts as some nuts have corroded or are missing

[tr7v8]

Becoming more & more of a problem it seems with this era of Porsche unfortunately. Still Porsche save 2 1/2d over using Kunifer or similar anyway. I'm surprised TUV knowing how strict they are not making this the rule in Germany.

[Brian_996TT]

i don’t mind the repairing and like a challenge. Porsche tax on the genuine steel lines makes them even more money

[Paynewright]

I’ve done all my brake pipes. The ‘rusted down two sizes’ short pipes into the calipers were a leap of faith with the mole grips!

The transverse front one was a challenge too, dropping the subframe!

[UpTheIron]

Mine failed in exactly the same spot as the OP. Reasonably common according to my tech.

[Brian_996TT]

i don’t know why Porsche didn’t just run the front steel line through the inner wing like the way they did the n/s/f connection

[Polome]

If your thinking of removing the brake calliper to hub bolts....take care...your right in saying it's very easy to damage threads in hub. The damage is caused by corrosion build up and swelling on the very end of the bolt where it protrudes through the hub. The swelling of the bolt rips the alloy casing when unscrewing from hub. It's best to dress/ clean the bolt ends before attempting removal...saves the potential nightmare if threads strip. Good luck

[Brian_996TT]

Porsche must of changed the hub carrier on the facelift as my caliper bolts you can’t see the threads coming out the other side. There’s also not much room to get a spanner in to get the main steel line off the flexible line so i might just cut the line and use a socket.

[Polome]

Well that's good news...all they need to do now is get some better metallurgy with the soft and corrosive fixings and their cars would be far easier to work on ...glad your getting all fixed.

[Brian_996TT]

Today despite the snow i got the front to back brake lines removed and i had to take out the screen wash bottle and once you remove the visible bolts it has to slide out from 2 round plastic lugs into brackets on the door edge and they are tight cause the rubber is dry

[anonymous-user]

Friend of mine's 997 brake lines failed due to corrosion. Luckily at slow speed as the pedal went to the floor.

[Brian_996TT]

RonaldMcDonaldAteMyCat said:

Friend of mine's 997 brake lines failed due to corrosion. Luckily at slow speed as the pedal went to the floor.

Wow that was lucky, my car is 2003 so its sort of expected but once i’ve finished i won’t need to do it again for a long time