Discussion
I know this has been covered but i need to know if both modeals were available in 2001, if so what were the price differences, and in the masses opinion was it worth it then and what premium would a LW attract now over a 4.5 of the same year and mileage.
also, what are the main differences.
thanks in advance
also, what are the main differences.
thanks in advance
Obi, when I first got my 4.5 2001 LW RR I asked a few questions. One owner here Cerbhead posted this for me.
I think it shiul answer some of your requests.
Lightweight? Well not exactly - what the factory did was to use some of the new-fangled 'jaycloth' tissue they the new Tuscan range used, instead of 100% glassfibre on the bonnet, doors and boot lid. It is slightly lighter but the main thing is it is better in crash situations. However some early cars had rattles in the doors and some less than optimal panel fits.
Wheels: Most/many 4.5/4.2 Cerberas scrape their rear tyres over fast/power-on bumps. The rear suspenders on your car have been fine-tuned by the factory over the years and feature harder springs and dampers and thicker roll bar than prior models. It is set for 8.5J rims with 255 tyres and 'Cerbera' offset. Given the vagueries of GRP production this may cause graunching on some cars. If you have a real problem with this, it is better to replace the std dampers with ones with adjustable platforms (and generally stiffen the springing/damping at the same time - 325lbs-350lbs springs and Nitrons are the ral trick) and setting the ride height correctly rather than bothering with Tuscan wheels. This will stop bump-graunch except in extremis.
Front Tyres/Steering: The factory reworked the geometry and suspension for your car as well. However the steering can still be a bit sharp and if you want to soften it some more, fit 235 tyres instead of 225. The wider tread gives greater flex on the 8.5J rims - note: same rims as rears which have 255's. Its not really worth going to 40% ratio tyres as then it is possible to feel the extra flex in sharp corners and it doesn't really work in terms of 'comfort'.
In terms of engine what you have that is different to std 4.5 is: High compression head with gas-flowed ports, bigger injectors and more aggressive ECU mapping. Should produce somewhere around 400 bhp on the rolling road. Sorry - factory bhps are not 'in car' and so you won't get the advertised 440bhp, unless on a very rose-tinted rolling road! But - the engine power delivery is a hell of a lot better than a std 4.5 which is somewhat lethargic - don't belive the marketing blurb.
The 95/98 button: the RR's ECU is set-up for high-octane petrol (because of the higher compression) and is much more aggressive (ie favours power rather than economy/greenery). However if you are cruising gently across Europe and using almost zero throttle (as if!) then the you can use 95 petrol as long as you 'press the button'..... But.... When you press the button the ECU does not change fuelling, all it does is add a 2 degree retard to the ignition timing. - you are still running a 4.5 litre high-compression engine and if you use anywhere near full throttle under more than average load with 95 octane you are very likely to get detonation - eg. being a bit exuberant at traffic lights. This will quickly wreck your engine - BE WARNED.
Finally: Tyre pressures are important - check regularly or you will start complaining. Watch the oil level, check weekly/daily - the wet sump is sensitive to levels and the engine runs under much higher levels of strain than 'normal' cars. I shouldn't have to say this but... Look after the Leather - every week!
Nick.
I think it shiul answer some of your requests.
Lightweight? Well not exactly - what the factory did was to use some of the new-fangled 'jaycloth' tissue they the new Tuscan range used, instead of 100% glassfibre on the bonnet, doors and boot lid. It is slightly lighter but the main thing is it is better in crash situations. However some early cars had rattles in the doors and some less than optimal panel fits.
Wheels: Most/many 4.5/4.2 Cerberas scrape their rear tyres over fast/power-on bumps. The rear suspenders on your car have been fine-tuned by the factory over the years and feature harder springs and dampers and thicker roll bar than prior models. It is set for 8.5J rims with 255 tyres and 'Cerbera' offset. Given the vagueries of GRP production this may cause graunching on some cars. If you have a real problem with this, it is better to replace the std dampers with ones with adjustable platforms (and generally stiffen the springing/damping at the same time - 325lbs-350lbs springs and Nitrons are the ral trick) and setting the ride height correctly rather than bothering with Tuscan wheels. This will stop bump-graunch except in extremis.
Front Tyres/Steering: The factory reworked the geometry and suspension for your car as well. However the steering can still be a bit sharp and if you want to soften it some more, fit 235 tyres instead of 225. The wider tread gives greater flex on the 8.5J rims - note: same rims as rears which have 255's. Its not really worth going to 40% ratio tyres as then it is possible to feel the extra flex in sharp corners and it doesn't really work in terms of 'comfort'.
In terms of engine what you have that is different to std 4.5 is: High compression head with gas-flowed ports, bigger injectors and more aggressive ECU mapping. Should produce somewhere around 400 bhp on the rolling road. Sorry - factory bhps are not 'in car' and so you won't get the advertised 440bhp, unless on a very rose-tinted rolling road! But - the engine power delivery is a hell of a lot better than a std 4.5 which is somewhat lethargic - don't belive the marketing blurb.
The 95/98 button: the RR's ECU is set-up for high-octane petrol (because of the higher compression) and is much more aggressive (ie favours power rather than economy/greenery). However if you are cruising gently across Europe and using almost zero throttle (as if!) then the you can use 95 petrol as long as you 'press the button'..... But.... When you press the button the ECU does not change fuelling, all it does is add a 2 degree retard to the ignition timing. - you are still running a 4.5 litre high-compression engine and if you use anywhere near full throttle under more than average load with 95 octane you are very likely to get detonation - eg. being a bit exuberant at traffic lights. This will quickly wreck your engine - BE WARNED.
Finally: Tyre pressures are important - check regularly or you will start complaining. Watch the oil level, check weekly/daily - the wet sump is sensitive to levels and the engine runs under much higher levels of strain than 'normal' cars. I shouldn't have to say this but... Look after the Leather - every week!
Nick.
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