how to change caliper?
Discussion
Which caliper is it (front or rear), and why are you changing it? If it's just sticking a bit, you may find that pushing (front) or screwing (rear) the pistons into their bores, then pumping them back out on the pedal a few times is enough to free them off for the moment, so that you can continue to use it and take it into a garage at your convenience.
It's a pretty basic job, but (no disrespect) if you need to ask how it's done, then I'd suggest you need someone who knows what they are doing to give you help and advice the first time, specially when it comes to bleeding the system (easier with 2 men on the job, anyway).
Basic procedure is:
1) Disconnect handbrake cable (rear caliper only)
2) Remove pads
3) Unbolt caliper and disconnect hydraulic hose.
4) Throw old caliper over your shoulder
5) Ensure piston is fully retracted in the new caliper; the piston just pushes in on a front caliper, but on a rear one it has to be screwed in using a retraction tool.
6) Connect the caliper to the brake hose
7) Bolt the caliper to the hub carrier, ensuring that the brake hose isn't twisted.
8) Refit the pads.
9) Bleed the brakes (easy to say in 3 words, but if you don't know how to do it, find someone who does!)
10) Reconnect the handbrake cable (if a rear caliper) and adjust if becessary.
11) Check for fluid leaks; test drive; check for fluid leaks again.
Do you have a copy of the Workshop Manual? This gives further information on adjustment of the handbrake cable, in particular, though to be honest it assumes that Lotus mechanics will know the basics of brake overhaul and bleeding.
It's a pretty basic job, but (no disrespect) if you need to ask how it's done, then I'd suggest you need someone who knows what they are doing to give you help and advice the first time, specially when it comes to bleeding the system (easier with 2 men on the job, anyway).
Basic procedure is:
1) Disconnect handbrake cable (rear caliper only)
2) Remove pads
3) Unbolt caliper and disconnect hydraulic hose.
4) Throw old caliper over your shoulder
5) Ensure piston is fully retracted in the new caliper; the piston just pushes in on a front caliper, but on a rear one it has to be screwed in using a retraction tool.
6) Connect the caliper to the brake hose
7) Bolt the caliper to the hub carrier, ensuring that the brake hose isn't twisted.
8) Refit the pads.
9) Bleed the brakes (easy to say in 3 words, but if you don't know how to do it, find someone who does!)
10) Reconnect the handbrake cable (if a rear caliper) and adjust if becessary.
11) Check for fluid leaks; test drive; check for fluid leaks again.
Do you have a copy of the Workshop Manual? This gives further information on adjustment of the handbrake cable, in particular, though to be honest it assumes that Lotus mechanics will know the basics of brake overhaul and bleeding.
thanks,
no disrespect taken... i don't know what i'm doing but i am good a figuring stuff out if directed in enough detail.
I would need a blow by blow action list of what to do in more detail such as how to remove the pads & how exactly to remove the caliper.. a complete idiots guide.. i reckon it would take a while to type up on here (unless someone has a lot of free time!) or a resource on the web which is already written..
thanks again for tip, will try the temporary fix you mentioned.
no disrespect taken... i don't know what i'm doing but i am good a figuring stuff out if directed in enough detail.
I would need a blow by blow action list of what to do in more detail such as how to remove the pads & how exactly to remove the caliper.. a complete idiots guide.. i reckon it would take a while to type up on here (unless someone has a lot of free time!) or a resource on the web which is already written..
thanks again for tip, will try the temporary fix you mentioned.
Removing the pads is covered by the Workshop manual...you will need to take the pads out (and for ease of access possibly unbolt the caliper) to push/screw the pistons back in, anyway.
If you are pumping the piston back out without putting everything back together, be careful - it's easy to pump the piston clean out of the caliper!
Front pads and anti-rattle plate are retained by a couple of pins, which are themselves held in place by split pins, IIRC.
Remove the split pins, pull out the pad retaining pins, and the anti-rattle and pads can be withdrawn.
The rear pads are retained by a single pin with a snap-ring on the end of it, which must be driven out with a suitable pin punch or drift.
Obviously, you should use ne snap rings (rear) or split pins (front) when you re-fit the pads.
If you want a detailed description/discussion of brake bleeding, try doing a search on the Chimaera forum...we covered it in detail a couple(?) of months back.
If you are pumping the piston back out without putting everything back together, be careful - it's easy to pump the piston clean out of the caliper!
Front pads and anti-rattle plate are retained by a couple of pins, which are themselves held in place by split pins, IIRC.
Remove the split pins, pull out the pad retaining pins, and the anti-rattle and pads can be withdrawn.
The rear pads are retained by a single pin with a snap-ring on the end of it, which must be driven out with a suitable pin punch or drift.
Obviously, you should use ne snap rings (rear) or split pins (front) when you re-fit the pads.
If you want a detailed description/discussion of brake bleeding, try doing a search on the Chimaera forum...we covered it in detail a couple(?) of months back.
alicrozier said:
Pad change guide here as a start:
www.elise-faq.info/content/brakes/padchange.php
Top link! Pictures and everything! Now all we need is an online beginner's guide to brake bleeding!
thanks for all the tips, pads was very easy to do with all the instructions. I was gonna replace the caliper as i had a bang on the wheen and broke the disc & some other damage.
I've replaced: lower ball joint, wheel hub, bearing and the disc. The garage said that the caliper needs replacing as its sticking, but i opened it up and the disc is spinning with a warp effect, and not due to the caliper.
the disc itself it NOT warped.. looks like the bearing or the hub is damaged... could they have fitted it wrong for the problem to still be there? what could cause the disc not to spin straight but with a wobble? as its eating into my summer and defo my pockets also!
thanks
I've replaced: lower ball joint, wheel hub, bearing and the disc. The garage said that the caliper needs replacing as its sticking, but i opened it up and the disc is spinning with a warp effect, and not due to the caliper.
the disc itself it NOT warped.. looks like the bearing or the hub is damaged... could they have fitted it wrong for the problem to still be there? what could cause the disc not to spin straight but with a wobble? as its eating into my summer and defo my pockets also!
thanks
Gassing Station | Elise/Exige/Europa/340R | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff