how do i find out

[gopen]

guys, this thought just crossed my mind. how do i find out if a brake rod conversion has already been done to my geep by the previuos keepers? i want to do a conversion to improve my braking but what if some one has already done it and the poor braking is caused by something else?

if i take photos and forward it to any of you will you be able to say if a conversion has been done or not?

and what part do i need to photograph?

if i sound stupid pls do forgive me, its only because i dont know what i am talking about!!!LOL LOL

[jon4648]

First question have you renewed the fluid - hydraulic fluid is hydroscopic and should be replaced every 3 years as it deteriorates brake performance deteriorates.

Question Two has your Jeep been built properly ie with a Non Servo system? [I]If it has a servo we are into a different ball-game.[/I]

Question Three are you rating your brake performance against a modern servo braked tin can? - Non servo systems always require greater pressure to operate them. So think about that - If you do a 20mph emergency stop - use an empty car park for this test - do the wheels lock and the Jeep skids to a halt even on a dry surface - mine does, this is because (by design)it is so light.

Still worried about your brakes - read-on.

Have you looked at the conversion on the Tech Site?

Do you understand what you read?

Do you feel competent to play around with the brake operating system?

If yes to those 3 questions - then you should be able to do the necessary. Feel behind the brake pedal for the operating rod. If it is one piece - No joins either nuts for adjustable length or welds then odds on it is original. If there is an adjuster maybe it has not been adjusted properly.

Are they Mk2 self adjusting rear brakes? - Are the adjusters seized - to check will the handbrake lock the back wheels - check out back in an empty car park- If the wheels do not lock strip back brakes - free up adjusters - reassemble with Copperslip on the moving parts but NOT on the linings or drum.

If you have a servo system suspect -
a. Check pipe manifold to servo and replace if it is cracked or porous servo will not work.
b. Brake compensator not working.
c. Servo U/S

Best solution remove compensator and replace servo with non servo master cylinder. Jago always advised against fitting servos - F1 race cars have non servo brakes.

[trextr7monkey]

And not forgetting:
d) brake hoses ballooning- the MOT tester's favourite!!

[drseg]

take a photograph from directly under the brake pedal where brake rod is attatched
i got youre email
i still have a problem - i have 2 lengths of operating rod that differ by about 2 inches if i lengthen the shorter one it will only be very slightly longer than the longer one if i do the longer one it may be too long and then you will apply the brakes and they'd just stay on

so at the moment i'm stuck
if you would like to take rod off yours and measure the overall length i will make one 80mm longer than that

[techsec]

If your push rod has been modified then it should have a threaded shaft with a nut welded to the fork that attaches to the brake pedal and another nut that is used to lock the shaft at the correct setting. Check out the diagram on the technical site for more info on the modification.

[drseg]

i seriously need a rod length HELLLPPPP!
damn we need a better tech secretary {lol}
i think my shorter rod is standard????? maybe????
welder is waiting

[gopen]

hi drseg
i have found no welding marks or any sort of un-eveness on the brake rod of my geep. and i think(99% sure) that there hasnt been a conversion made on my one before.

i was able to unscrew all the nuts and blots and i was able to un-couple the rod from the brake pedal. but rather foolishly i forgot to arm myself with one vital tool. the circlip plyers!!!!!

i am gonna get one today, and then i shall be able to get the rod out of the master cylynder altogeather.

i have mesured the rod...with its cylynder end still inside the master cylynder.

it mesaures 9cm from the tip of the rod(the forked end) on the pedal end to the tip of the end that fits through the entrance of the master cylynder.

there is still some bit of the rod thats inside the master cylynder. i will mesaure it as soon as i manage to get the rod free from the master cylynder.

i dont know if this partial mesurement is of any help to you, but thought of giving it any way.

i should be giving you the full length of the rod soon though.
cheers
gopen

[gopen]

hi drseg
ignore my previous post, i have at last got the rod out of the master cylynder.

THE LENGTH OF THE ROAD FROM THE TIP OF THE CYLYNDER END TO THE TIP OF THE PEDAL END IS,

6 INCHES
OR
15 CM

HOPE THIS BIT OF INFO HELPS YOU.

NOW THAT I HAVE REMOVED THE ROD, IF YOU NEED IT, I CAN SEND IT TO YOU FOR YOU TO DO THE WELDING WORK?
DO YOU WANT ME TO DO THAT? PLS REPLY.

THANKS A LOT ONCE AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP AND GUIDENCE. CANT THANK YOU ENOUGH.
CHEERS
GOPEN

[drseg]

armed with this info will retrieve the spare rod and add 80mm to 6inches
gimme a couple of days as rods are in my samuri which is in a borrowed garage - wont be going there till tonight to drop off auto gearbox i got off ebay for sammi auto conversion then will measure and post for others reference

[gopen]

drseg,
take your time, no rush.
gopen