Brake Hose Swap

[mikedxb]

Hi,
So I bought a replacement brake m/c, but I need a longer brake hose (M/C to abs unit). The hose is item 5 in the following:


I am not keen on replacing the entire line as space is very tight, with steel tube being used as part of the line in places due to this..

There is a union in item 5 as shown:


If I can get access, I'm thinking that I could disconnect the line at the union and run a longer flexible hose from the union to the M/C.

I don't know the union fitting size, but it is a standard modern Suzuki bike... don't know if such things are standard; I have emailed HEL and Venhill to see if they can figure out what fittings I need.

The main challenge looks like access as the union is tight under the chassis rail, but I assume that if I remove the plastics and tank I will be able to manipulate the union into a position with better access.

I also assume the union is similar in principle to brake lines on cars - just unscrew the old union / hose and replace with the new union / hose.

Can you see any flaws / potential problems with my plan?

Many thanks,
Mike

[podman]

If your near Silverstone way, have a chat with Earls hoses, im pretty sure they will have all the fixings it needs, you can take it into them and they will make you one up on the spot (they did pre covid anyway...)

[mikedxb]

Thanks for suggestion. Not practical to go to Silverstone so sent them email. Will see if they can help.

[gareth_r]

Goodridge lists front/rear brake line kits for the ABS GSX-S750, so would be able to make a one-off.

https://www.goodridge.co.uk/products/motorcycle-ab...


EDIT: As does HEL

https://www.helperformance.com/motorcycle/braided-...

Edited by gareth_r on Saturday 20th March 21:56

[Krikkit]

Fittings are all fairly standard. Remove the current hose, take some pictures and send them to someone like HEL who can do custom hoses with the new length required.

I'd also recommend investing in a brake union spanner which are usually 11 and 10mm and have more flats on them to avoid rounding off tricky ones.

[mikedxb]

Looked at the hel and goodridge kits. Not sure if they require whole brake line to be swapped, which i would prefer to avoid. Will call them and find out.... plus send more photos if they require.
I have slotted 10 and 11mm brake pipe spanners - hopefully they will reduce probability of c**k ups!

[Krikkit]

mikedxb said:

Looked at the hel and goodridge kits. Not sure if they require whole brake line to be swapped, which i would prefer to avoid. Will call them and find out.... plus send more photos if they require.
I have slotted 10 and 11mm brake pipe spanners - hopefully they will reduce probability of c**k ups!

Looking at the diagram in the first post that flexi won't be able to be extended, you'll need to take the job accessing it from the hard line end regardless of faff.

[airsafari87]

Give Joe Akroyd at 16Eighty a shout, he should hopefully be able to sort you out.

[mikedxb]

HEL are sorting me out (they were very helpful).
Their replacement brake lines bolt up to the union I keep rambling on about.
They are providing me with a longer brake line (plus replacements for the other front end lines - may as well do them at same time).
Fitting the M/C line looks like it will be a challenge... but hopefully I will find a way!
More to follow...

[mikedxb]

The banjo bolt for my new master cylinder is a tad too long (have two now... both the same.

I’m thinking about grinding a mm off the bolt- that’s all that’s needed. Sealing is via the crush washers, so I can’t see that there would be a problem with this. However, i understand that the front brake is quite important so thought would check.

Another common solution is an extra crush washer (curiously I have not read about anyone shortening the bolt), but I’m not keen on this as it feels like a bit of a bodge (and grinding a bolt isn’t?!).

I’m standing-by to be flamed for this... if I get shown up as being ignorant of something important....

[anonymous-user]

As long as there's sufficient thread engagement, taking some length off the bolt is fine. Make sure you deburr it properly, a slight chamfer on the outside to help the thread lead in, also.

If it doesn't want to thread into the master cylinder easily once cut, don't try and force it, as you'll damage the thread in the cylinder!

[Krikkit]

I'd just get the right length banjo. I'd absolutely desperate I'd think about cutting it down, but it'll need deburring and doing carefully as said.

Don't use two banjo washers.

[mikedxb]

Thanks for replies. I have two bolts so will have a go with one of them. Understood need to make sure all burrs / swarf removed and make sure bolt thread leads in correctly to the m/c.

[mikedxb]

Maybe making a meal of this...
This is the original fitting on the bike.
It has a to-be-retained metal brake pipe on the left, ending in the 10mm nut and small threaded section.
And the rubber hose I need to replace is on the right, which is swaged to the fitting with the 17mm nut:
[url]

This is the brake line supplied by HEL:
|https://thumbsnap.com/7pLnGNSx[/url]

The Hel fitting has a male flared end to the brake line (obviously the "nut" rotates around this to tighten the joint).

However, I was expecting that the metal brake pipe to-be-retained would have a male flared end, and the new HEL line would have a female fitting that the flared end of the metal brake pipe would seal against.

If the HEL fitting is correct, then my expectation must be wrong (and the 10mm connection on the metal brake pipe is female).

I would appreciate any opinions on whether the HEL fitting looks correct - I don't really want to split the existing joint to find the HEL is the wrong one.

Thanks!

Mike

Edited by mikedxb on Friday 2nd April 16:18

[mikedxb]

Well done Hel... fitting was correct.
Brake line fitted, no bolt grinding needed.
To close out thread, m/c fitted too...