BTR Diff interchangeable Hydrotrak vs Cone type parts ?
Discussion
Hi,
In short, yes to both questions.
I went through all this last year.
My cone diff became clonky and I also wanted to change to a higher ratio crown wheel and pinion. The first surprise on opening it up was that, despite the clonk, the crownwheel/pinion engagement, tooth pattern and preload were all to spec and the bearings seemed fine.
Next up was getting the bearing carriers out, for which I made up a suitable tool.
After a brief, but unsuccessful attempt to undo them, I soaked them for many days. Still no luck. Heated the case, no luck. Eventually, in desperation, heated the casing around the carrier, got on top of a 2m scaffold pole over the 3/4" breaker bar and bounce on the pole untill it eventually moved.
However, relief was short lived as the thread galled badly as it came out. (One side came undone with relative ease.) On close inspection, the easy side thread had traces of sealant on the threads, the tough side had none. As the o ring is the oil seal, the only purpose I could see to the sealant is preventing the carrier threads corroding to the case threads and the removal problem arises if thie sealant is omitted.
Once dismantled and checked, it was clear that the clonk was from the spider side gear clearance. This clearance increases as the cones wear in normal use and can simply be re-shimmed to spec.
However, I had to buy another diff to obtain a carrier. What turned up was a Hydratrack diff from a Cerbera. All parts are interchageable excepting that the drive shafts suit either the Hydratrack or the cone.
I decided to try the Hydratrack, which looked to be fine so I didn't dismantle it, but it turned out to have the dreaded clonk! So out again with the diff and found that once again the clond was from the spider side gear clearance. These are adjusted by specially cast iron shims which wear very thin, then break in half. Thezecan be replaced, however they have long been unobtainable.
In short, a clonking cone diff is an easy fix, a Hydratrack is a write off.
I went back to the adjusted cone diff, but built up in the Hydratrack casing. I now have a silent diff.
Dougal.
In short, yes to both questions.
I went through all this last year.
My cone diff became clonky and I also wanted to change to a higher ratio crown wheel and pinion. The first surprise on opening it up was that, despite the clonk, the crownwheel/pinion engagement, tooth pattern and preload were all to spec and the bearings seemed fine.
Next up was getting the bearing carriers out, for which I made up a suitable tool.
After a brief, but unsuccessful attempt to undo them, I soaked them for many days. Still no luck. Heated the case, no luck. Eventually, in desperation, heated the casing around the carrier, got on top of a 2m scaffold pole over the 3/4" breaker bar and bounce on the pole untill it eventually moved.
However, relief was short lived as the thread galled badly as it came out. (One side came undone with relative ease.) On close inspection, the easy side thread had traces of sealant on the threads, the tough side had none. As the o ring is the oil seal, the only purpose I could see to the sealant is preventing the carrier threads corroding to the case threads and the removal problem arises if thie sealant is omitted.
Once dismantled and checked, it was clear that the clonk was from the spider side gear clearance. This clearance increases as the cones wear in normal use and can simply be re-shimmed to spec.
However, I had to buy another diff to obtain a carrier. What turned up was a Hydratrack diff from a Cerbera. All parts are interchageable excepting that the drive shafts suit either the Hydratrack or the cone.
I decided to try the Hydratrack, which looked to be fine so I didn't dismantle it, but it turned out to have the dreaded clonk! So out again with the diff and found that once again the clond was from the spider side gear clearance. These are adjusted by specially cast iron shims which wear very thin, then break in half. Thezecan be replaced, however they have long been unobtainable.
In short, a clonking cone diff is an easy fix, a Hydratrack is a write off.
I went back to the adjusted cone diff, but built up in the Hydratrack casing. I now have a silent diff.
Dougal.
Edited by Dougal9887 on Sunday 28th March 16:02
Edited by Dougal9887 on Sunday 28th March 16:18
No, I don't think so. The shims for the cones were, apparently, never offered as a spare part! Even if the had been, I doubt they would be available now. They are an awkward size and must be a single shim, the area of the shim is important as it takes the full force of the spider gear drive pressure. I got some pretty close matches from the states. However if your builder knows these diffs, they will have their solution.
Dougal
Dougal
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