AJP8 Typical Compression PSI
Discussion
Whenever I've done a compression test in the past I've always got 220psi or more, but this time I'm getting 270psi
This is the method I have used
When X is 4 - 210psi
When X is 5 - 240psi
When X is 6 - 270psi
When X is 10 or more 272psi
Engine is running fine, just slight hesitation on accelerating, so I thought I pull the plugs to check
While I was at it I did a compression test
Figures are very consistent across all cylinders, heads have fairly new valves, springs, seats, but piston rings are original
I am running the cam timing with level lifters on TDC
I have had reputable engine builders on PH tell me that I'm smoking crack to report figures as high as 240psi in the past
However the gauge I'm using reports figures that are exactly as expected on other cars I've used it with
What compression figures are typical?


This is the method I have used
- Warm engine
- All plugs out
- Battery on charge
- Throttle fully open
- Ignition & Fuel pump disabled
- Spin engine for X revolutions
When X is 4 - 210psi
When X is 5 - 240psi
When X is 6 - 270psi
When X is 10 or more 272psi
Engine is running fine, just slight hesitation on accelerating, so I thought I pull the plugs to check
While I was at it I did a compression test
Figures are very consistent across all cylinders, heads have fairly new valves, springs, seats, but piston rings are original
I am running the cam timing with level lifters on TDC
I have had reputable engine builders on PH tell me that I'm smoking crack to report figures as high as 240psi in the past
However the gauge I'm using reports figures that are exactly as expected on other cars I've used it with
What compression figures are typical?


Here’s what I got:
(Testing procedure as per your list, except that the engine was cold)
1 - 245
2 - 250
3 - 250
4 - 255
5 - 265
6 - 243
7 - 270
8 - 240
Of-course, my gauge was a non-calibrated, cheap product, but the results were consistent when I went back and re-measured.
Engine had about 4500 miles on it and had recently had a full 12k service (tappets).
(Testing procedure as per your list, except that the engine was cold)
1 - 245
2 - 250
3 - 250
4 - 255
5 - 265
6 - 243
7 - 270
8 - 240
Of-course, my gauge was a non-calibrated, cheap product, but the results were consistent when I went back and re-measured.
Engine had about 4500 miles on it and had recently had a full 12k service (tappets).
I did mine back in 2016, but if I recall correctly, I ended up cranking the engine for about 5-8 seconds.
I had the gauge mounted such that I could see from the drivers seat.
While cranking, the needle jumps up and continues to climb with each rotation, until you can see that it isn’t really climbing much more - I was told that anything over 200psi meant there were no issues, so I basically stopped cranking when I saw the needle pass that point.
I had the gauge mounted such that I could see from the drivers seat.
While cranking, the needle jumps up and continues to climb with each rotation, until you can see that it isn’t really climbing much more - I was told that anything over 200psi meant there were no issues, so I basically stopped cranking when I saw the needle pass that point.
compression test is quite useless in terms of max. values.
depends on battery-charge, type of starter motor, throttle full open or not (usually it should be open) and so on....
important is that all cylinders are equal. and thats the ONLY thing you can use as reference.....not the max. values.
depends on battery-charge, type of starter motor, throttle full open or not (usually it should be open) and so on....
important is that all cylinders are equal. and thats the ONLY thing you can use as reference.....not the max. values.
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