M54 2.2 Oil & Vacuum leak
Discussion
Sorry for what might seem like silly questions!
Just a quick one on oil as it seems to be a bit of a minefield for a beginner! I am getting bits together to do a full service on my M54 2.2 E46 and I’m struggling to find the best oil to feed her. What do you all advise from experience? It seems to be a toss between 5w40 & 5w30.
I’m currently also chasing a vacuum leak and after having the intake hoses inspected (all okay), new ccv and valve cover & intake manifold gasket. Disa and idle control valve have also been cleaned and fitted with new gaskets.
There is no rough idle but the light comes on with the usual P0171 & P0174 codes after roughly 50 miles of motorway and a roads. Any idea on what could be the cause?
Any help would be much appreciated!
Just a quick one on oil as it seems to be a bit of a minefield for a beginner! I am getting bits together to do a full service on my M54 2.2 E46 and I’m struggling to find the best oil to feed her. What do you all advise from experience? It seems to be a toss between 5w40 & 5w30.
I’m currently also chasing a vacuum leak and after having the intake hoses inspected (all okay), new ccv and valve cover & intake manifold gasket. Disa and idle control valve have also been cleaned and fitted with new gaskets.
There is no rough idle but the light comes on with the usual P0171 & P0174 codes after roughly 50 miles of motorway and a roads. Any idea on what could be the cause?
Any help would be much appreciated!
ieuandkernow said:
Sorry for what might seem like silly questions!
Just a quick one on oil as it seems to be a bit of a minefield for a beginner! I am getting bits together to do a full service on my M54 2.2 E46 and I’m struggling to find the best oil to feed her. What do you all advise from experience? It seems to be a toss between 5w40 & 5w30.
I’m currently also chasing a vacuum leak and after having the intake hoses inspected (all okay), new ccv and valve cover & intake manifold gasket. Disa and idle control valve have also been cleaned and fitted with new gaskets.
There is no rough idle but the light comes on with the usual P0171 & P0174 codes after roughly 50 miles of motorway and a roads. Any idea on what could be the cause?
Any help would be much appreciated!
I used 5W30 (anything that meets BMW spec).Just a quick one on oil as it seems to be a bit of a minefield for a beginner! I am getting bits together to do a full service on my M54 2.2 E46 and I’m struggling to find the best oil to feed her. What do you all advise from experience? It seems to be a toss between 5w40 & 5w30.
I’m currently also chasing a vacuum leak and after having the intake hoses inspected (all okay), new ccv and valve cover & intake manifold gasket. Disa and idle control valve have also been cleaned and fitted with new gaskets.
There is no rough idle but the light comes on with the usual P0171 & P0174 codes after roughly 50 miles of motorway and a roads. Any idea on what could be the cause?
Any help would be much appreciated!
Could it be the MAF?
If you are new to M54 engines I would suggest using a smoke machine to take the guesswork out.
As to the oil my recommendation is any reputable LL-01 5W-40. 5W-30 has been introduced to help manufacturers meet emission targets (tests done with cold engine) And I would also add LM Ceratec to engine/gearbox(manual only!)/diff.
https://www.total.co.uk/difference-between-5w30-5w...
As to the oil my recommendation is any reputable LL-01 5W-40. 5W-30 has been introduced to help manufacturers meet emission targets (tests done with cold engine) And I would also add LM Ceratec to engine/gearbox(manual only!)/diff.
https://www.total.co.uk/difference-between-5w30-5w...
Edited by naturalaspiration on Thursday 29th April 01:39
Edited by naturalaspiration on Thursday 29th April 01:40
Edited by naturalaspiration on Thursday 29th April 01:40
Have a look on youtube for 50sKid, he has done a massive amount of useful help guides for the M54 engine and covers these codes.
It sounds like you're chasing a small air leak if the idle is good, so could be the dipstick o ring. Also worth checking the small vac lines that stem from the intake boot and run toward the back of the engine, a few of my were perished from age/heat. Cam cover gasket, throttle body gasket are other common failures that cause air leaks.
As mentioned above, a smoke machine will save you a lot of time, but given the age of these cars I would be inclined to rip everything apart and replace every possible gasket. It's a few hours work and not all that pricey even when buying from BMW. It also gives you easy access to things like the oil filter housing gasket which is a common age related failure, and about £4 from BMW.
HTH
It sounds like you're chasing a small air leak if the idle is good, so could be the dipstick o ring. Also worth checking the small vac lines that stem from the intake boot and run toward the back of the engine, a few of my were perished from age/heat. Cam cover gasket, throttle body gasket are other common failures that cause air leaks.
As mentioned above, a smoke machine will save you a lot of time, but given the age of these cars I would be inclined to rip everything apart and replace every possible gasket. It's a few hours work and not all that pricey even when buying from BMW. It also gives you easy access to things like the oil filter housing gasket which is a common age related failure, and about £4 from BMW.
HTH
The fuel tank breather valve can throw vacuum leak errors if faulty - it sits underneath the intake manifold and is easy to replace - air box off for access then a plug and 2 pipes. Just have to be careful as the release clips will be brittle for one of the pipes (ask me how I know!).
naturalaspiration said:
If you are new to M54 engines I would suggest using a smoke machine to take the guesswork out.
As to the oil my recommendation is any reputable LL-01 5W-40. 5W-30 has been introduced to help manufacturers meet emission targets (tests done with cold engine) And I would also add LM Ceratec to engine/gearbox(manual only!)/diff.
https://www.total.co.uk/difference-between-5w30-5w...
I’m trying to get it booked in for a smoke test to get a clearer picture I’ve been cautious about pulling bits apart without knowing the root cause of the issue. Thanks for the link!As to the oil my recommendation is any reputable LL-01 5W-40. 5W-30 has been introduced to help manufacturers meet emission targets (tests done with cold engine) And I would also add LM Ceratec to engine/gearbox(manual only!)/diff.
https://www.total.co.uk/difference-between-5w30-5w...
Edited by naturalaspiration on Thursday 29th April 01:39
Edited by naturalaspiration on Thursday 29th April 01:40
Edited by naturalaspiration on Thursday 29th April 01:40
Shanksy87 said:
Have a look on youtube for 50sKid, he has done a massive amount of useful help guides for the M54 engine and covers these codes.
It sounds like you're chasing a small air leak if the idle is good, so could be the dipstick o ring. Also worth checking the small vac lines that stem from the intake boot and run toward the back of the engine, a few of my were perished from age/heat. Cam cover gasket, throttle body gasket are other common failures that cause air leaks.
As mentioned above, a smoke machine will save you a lot of time, but given the age of these cars I would be inclined to rip everything apart and replace every possible gasket. It's a few hours work and not all that pricey even when buying from BMW. It also gives you easy access to things like the oil filter housing gasket which is a common age related failure, and about £4 from BMW.
HTH
I follow the 50s kid but I think I will have to back through his vids with a fresh outlook and see if there are any indicators. I hadn’t thought about the vac lines I will check that out tomorrow. I have had a new cam cover gasket and the problem is still there but I’m not sure when the throttle body gasket was changed? As said in other posts I think a smoke test is definitely the way forward. It sounds like you're chasing a small air leak if the idle is good, so could be the dipstick o ring. Also worth checking the small vac lines that stem from the intake boot and run toward the back of the engine, a few of my were perished from age/heat. Cam cover gasket, throttle body gasket are other common failures that cause air leaks.
As mentioned above, a smoke machine will save you a lot of time, but given the age of these cars I would be inclined to rip everything apart and replace every possible gasket. It's a few hours work and not all that pricey even when buying from BMW. It also gives you easy access to things like the oil filter housing gasket which is a common age related failure, and about £4 from BMW.
HTH
Edited by ieuandkernow on Thursday 29th April 22:18
SteBrown91 said:
The fuel tank breather valve can throw vacuum leak errors if faulty - it sits underneath the intake manifold and is easy to replace - air box off for access then a plug and 2 pipes. Just have to be careful as the release clips will be brittle for one of the pipes (ask me how I know!).
I will be honest I didn’t even know that was a thing! Is it one of those things that is worth changing anyway? If so, am I best ordering new clips? ieuandkernow said:
g3org3y said:
I used 5W30 (anything that meets BMW spec).
Could it be the MAF?
That’s for the oil recommendation, I have looked at the MAF it runs the same with it unplugged so I’m wondering if this is an indicator to it being faulty? Looking maf it is a Siemens, is that OEM? Could it be the MAF?
Yes, I think Siemens VDO is OEM.
g3org3y said:
If the MAF is unplugged, i'll run on a default fuelling program. If the EML still returns despite the unplugged MAF, I doubt an issue with that.
Yes, I think Siemens VDO is OEM.
Thanks for the advice, as it only come on every 50 miles would It be worth leaving the maf unplugged for a while and seeing if the light comes back? Yes, I think Siemens VDO is OEM.
That’s good hopefully it is an oem unit!
ieuandkernow said:
SteBrown91 said:
The fuel tank breather valve can throw vacuum leak errors if faulty - it sits underneath the intake manifold and is easy to replace - air box off for access then a plug and 2 pipes. Just have to be careful as the release clips will be brittle for one of the pipes (ask me how I know!).
I will be honest I didn’t even know that was a thing! Is it one of those things that is worth changing anyway? If so, am I best ordering new clips? ieuandkernow said:
SteBrown91 said:
The fuel tank breather valve can throw vacuum leak errors if faulty - it sits underneath the intake manifold and is easy to replace - air box off for access then a plug and 2 pipes. Just have to be careful as the release clips will be brittle for one of the pipes (ask me how I know!).
I will be honest I didn’t even know that was a thing! Is it one of those things that is worth changing anyway? If so, am I best ordering new clips? I wouldn’t say it’s a routine change but if you literally cannot find anything else it’s worth a punt as they are only about 30 quid for a febi branded part. If they go very broken they throw a specific code related to the valve, if they are a bit broken they can throw vacuum leak errors or in my case no errors but wasn’t venting the fuel tank correctly making it hard work to fill up constantly cutting off etc. It depends at what point it is sticking.
But the vacuum systems on beemers are quite complex so the issue could be anywhere.
Edited by SteBrown91 on Thursday 29th April 22:20
I've had a M54 3.0 E46 for 11 years, oil Castrol Edge 5w30 with Mann filters all round (IMO not even worth debating).
On your new CCV did it have a blanking cap like this photo? I'd just do a smoke test next.
Also correct crankcase vacuum is critical, cheap and easy way to test and keep is get an electronic manometer off Amazon (£30) and an oil filler cap (£5), drill a hole through it and epoxy in a fitting to make a test cap. You can also use it for the crankcase smoke check.
I've just replaced every gasket, seal and o-ring as Shanksy87 suggested when I did my sump gasket, it's an involved job so I'd focus on finding and fixing the issue before doing further preventative work, which has been fetishized on these cars (not aimed at Shanksy btw).
On your new CCV did it have a blanking cap like this photo? I'd just do a smoke test next.
Also correct crankcase vacuum is critical, cheap and easy way to test and keep is get an electronic manometer off Amazon (£30) and an oil filler cap (£5), drill a hole through it and epoxy in a fitting to make a test cap. You can also use it for the crankcase smoke check.
I've just replaced every gasket, seal and o-ring as Shanksy87 suggested when I did my sump gasket, it's an involved job so I'd focus on finding and fixing the issue before doing further preventative work, which has been fetishized on these cars (not aimed at Shanksy btw).
One that is often missed for causing vacuum leaks is the valve in one of the tail pipes if you have it.
The vac pipes runs from engine bay all the way to the exhaust tips and can rub through and split - normally near the back end as it comes through the boot floor underneath. It causes a small vaccuum leak which eventually logs a code - as yours only comes on after 50 miles it’s definitely worth looking at.
Find the right vac pipe in the engine bay and block it off to rule it out. It won’t affect anything important on the car
The vac pipes runs from engine bay all the way to the exhaust tips and can rub through and split - normally near the back end as it comes through the boot floor underneath. It causes a small vaccuum leak which eventually logs a code - as yours only comes on after 50 miles it’s definitely worth looking at.
Find the right vac pipe in the engine bay and block it off to rule it out. It won’t affect anything important on the car
Elliot2000 said:
One that is often missed for causing vacuum leaks is the valve in one of the tail pipes if you have it.
The vac pipes runs from engine bay all the way to the exhaust tips and can rub through and split - normally near the back end as it comes through the boot floor underneath. It causes a small vaccuum leak which eventually logs a code - as yours only comes on after 50 miles it’s definitely worth looking at.
Find the right vac pipe in the engine bay and block it off to rule it out. It won’t affect anything important on the car
Good shout but no flap on a M54 2.2, only 2.5 & 3.0. But the cap on the underside of the intake manifold might have fallen off or split.The vac pipes runs from engine bay all the way to the exhaust tips and can rub through and split - normally near the back end as it comes through the boot floor underneath. It causes a small vaccuum leak which eventually logs a code - as yours only comes on after 50 miles it’s definitely worth looking at.
Find the right vac pipe in the engine bay and block it off to rule it out. It won’t affect anything important on the car
Edited by Pastie Bloater on Friday 30th April 13:36
Pastie Bloater said:
I've had a M54 3.0 E46 for 11 years, oil Castrol Edge 5w30 with Mann filters all round (IMO not even worth debating).
On your new CCV did it have a blanking cap like this photo? I'd just do a smoke test next.
Also correct crankcase vacuum is critical, cheap and easy way to test and keep is get an electronic manometer off Amazon (£30) and an oil filler cap (£5), drill a hole through it and epoxy in a fitting to make a test cap. You can also use it for the crankcase smoke check.
I've just replaced every gasket, seal and o-ring as Shanksy87 suggested when I did my sump gasket, it's an involved job so I'd focus on finding and fixing the issue before doing further preventative work, which has been fetishized on these cars (not aimed at Shanksy btw).
I did not fit the CCV so I’m not sure on this one but it was fitted by my mechanic so I can only assume it has been done correctly. It’s going in for a smoke test this week so this should answer my question.On your new CCV did it have a blanking cap like this photo? I'd just do a smoke test next.
Also correct crankcase vacuum is critical, cheap and easy way to test and keep is get an electronic manometer off Amazon (£30) and an oil filler cap (£5), drill a hole through it and epoxy in a fitting to make a test cap. You can also use it for the crankcase smoke check.
I've just replaced every gasket, seal and o-ring as Shanksy87 suggested when I did my sump gasket, it's an involved job so I'd focus on finding and fixing the issue before doing further preventative work, which has been fetishized on these cars (not aimed at Shanksy btw).
Weirdly, I took it on a 200 mile round trip this weekend (100 each way) and it didn’t come on until after the way there. It only came on when sat idling for 5 minutes. Not sure if this means anything but it seems odd that it didn’t come on in the first 100 miles and only when idling.
So I’ve just had a phone call from the mechanic and I don’t have a leak. While this might be a good thing it does beg the question of what’s causing my light. Both banks are coming on at the same time so I doubt it is the sensors.
What would be your guys next port of call? I’m thinking a MAF sensor
What would be your guys next port of call? I’m thinking a MAF sensor
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