Used Pre-purchase Checks
Discussion
You can check the MoT history online.
For a smallish fee hpicheck will flag up any outstanding finance on the vehicle, and any mileage discrepancy.
You can also get a physical inspection inc. test drive and report on the car by AA, RAC etc for a couple of hundred quid, assuming the owner is happy with this (they should be)
For a smallish fee hpicheck will flag up any outstanding finance on the vehicle, and any mileage discrepancy.
You can also get a physical inspection inc. test drive and report on the car by AA, RAC etc for a couple of hundred quid, assuming the owner is happy with this (they should be)
The traditional guidance is to buy on,
If it's a manual and you're doing a test drive get the car into third gear at low speed and then floor the throttle. The engine will be close to peak torque (like a cyclist having to stand on the pedals because they're in too high a gear) and if the clutch is knackered it will slip.
Check the car will accelerate in a straight line and, even more importantly, brake in a straight line. You don't want it pulling at the wheel under either condition. Try to make sure the ABS is working. Without abusing the car this can easily be done wherever there's some gravel or other loose/wet surface.
And a small thing - look at the tyres. If a car has four different makes/specifications of tyre it's pretty clear the owner's had a casual approach. Also the date codes. And whether the brands are big name or cheapest available.
Another small thing - if the owner has "warmed the car up" before your inspection, be suspicious. You really want to know it can do a cold start without issues.
Any hint of blue smoke (oil smoke) from the exhaust - run away. It's pretty unlikely these days.
Don't get over-exited about a bit of white froth in the oil filler cap. Many cars do this as a result of normal condensation. It doesn't automatically mean there are head gasket issues.
Always make sure the air conditioning is working properly, it's almost always expensive to repair. If it "just needs a re-gas" the question is why it needs a re-gas!
Which applies to everything else as well. Whenever an ad' or owner says "just needs a cheap fix" you can bet your life it won't be, or the owner would have done it themselves.
- Overall condition, and
- Service history.
If it's a manual and you're doing a test drive get the car into third gear at low speed and then floor the throttle. The engine will be close to peak torque (like a cyclist having to stand on the pedals because they're in too high a gear) and if the clutch is knackered it will slip.
Check the car will accelerate in a straight line and, even more importantly, brake in a straight line. You don't want it pulling at the wheel under either condition. Try to make sure the ABS is working. Without abusing the car this can easily be done wherever there's some gravel or other loose/wet surface.
And a small thing - look at the tyres. If a car has four different makes/specifications of tyre it's pretty clear the owner's had a casual approach. Also the date codes. And whether the brands are big name or cheapest available.
Another small thing - if the owner has "warmed the car up" before your inspection, be suspicious. You really want to know it can do a cold start without issues.
Any hint of blue smoke (oil smoke) from the exhaust - run away. It's pretty unlikely these days.
Don't get over-exited about a bit of white froth in the oil filler cap. Many cars do this as a result of normal condensation. It doesn't automatically mean there are head gasket issues.
Always make sure the air conditioning is working properly, it's almost always expensive to repair. If it "just needs a re-gas" the question is why it needs a re-gas!
Which applies to everything else as well. Whenever an ad' or owner says "just needs a cheap fix" you can bet your life it won't be, or the owner would have done it themselves.
rockin said:
The traditional guidance is to buy on,
If it's a manual and you're doing a test drive get the car into third gear at low speed and then floor the throttle. The engine will be close to peak torque (like a cyclist having to stand on the pedals because they're in too high a gear) and if the clutch is knackered it will slip.
Check the car will accelerate in a straight line and, even more importantly, brake in a straight line. You don't want it pulling at the wheel under either condition. Try to make sure the ABS is working. Without abusing the car this can easily be done wherever there's some gravel or other loose/wet surface.
And a small thing - look at the tyres. If a car has four different makes/specifications of tyre it's pretty clear the owner's had a casual approach. Also the date codes. And whether the brands are big name or cheapest available.
Another small thing - if the owner has "warmed the car up" before your inspection, be suspicious. You really want to know it can do a cold start without issues.
Any hint of blue smoke (oil smoke) from the exhaust - run away. It's pretty unlikely these days.
Don't get over-exited about a bit of white froth in the oil filler cap. Many cars do this as a result of normal condensation. It doesn't automatically mean there are head gasket issues.
Always make sure the air conditioning is working properly, it's almost always expensive to repair. If it "just needs a re-gas" the question is why it needs a re-gas!
Which applies to everything else as well. Whenever an ad' or owner says "just needs a cheap fix" you can bet your life it won't be, or the owner would have done it themselves.
Top tips, thank you- Overall condition, and
- Service history.
If it's a manual and you're doing a test drive get the car into third gear at low speed and then floor the throttle. The engine will be close to peak torque (like a cyclist having to stand on the pedals because they're in too high a gear) and if the clutch is knackered it will slip.
Check the car will accelerate in a straight line and, even more importantly, brake in a straight line. You don't want it pulling at the wheel under either condition. Try to make sure the ABS is working. Without abusing the car this can easily be done wherever there's some gravel or other loose/wet surface.
And a small thing - look at the tyres. If a car has four different makes/specifications of tyre it's pretty clear the owner's had a casual approach. Also the date codes. And whether the brands are big name or cheapest available.
Another small thing - if the owner has "warmed the car up" before your inspection, be suspicious. You really want to know it can do a cold start without issues.
Any hint of blue smoke (oil smoke) from the exhaust - run away. It's pretty unlikely these days.
Don't get over-exited about a bit of white froth in the oil filler cap. Many cars do this as a result of normal condensation. It doesn't automatically mean there are head gasket issues.
Always make sure the air conditioning is working properly, it's almost always expensive to repair. If it "just needs a re-gas" the question is why it needs a re-gas!
Which applies to everything else as well. Whenever an ad' or owner says "just needs a cheap fix" you can bet your life it won't be, or the owner would have done it themselves.
All sensible advice so far. Also:
If buying privately, make sure the seller has the V5 in their name and at the same address you are viewing the vehicle at. If not, why not? Usually this will be a trader masquerading as a private seller, but equally you want to make sure the person selling the car has the right to do so.
Make sure the car comes with the full set of keys, and that they all work. Modern car keys can be eye wateringly expensive to replace, and often need programming to the car using specialist kit. The days of getting a new key sorted for £20 at the local Timpson are long gone.
Service history should be both invoices and stamps. Stamps can be bought on eBay. You want to see receipts as well. Also, a good independent marque specialist can be easily as good, if not better than a main dealer.
Make sure the panels are straight, that gaps are uniform and parallel, and that the paint shade and finish matches between panels. Look at the panels dead on, and then from the rear of the car along the each side, so you vary the light and reflections. If it all looks pretty uniform, you can be reasonably confident it's either original, or well repaired. New cars are sprayed in one process, so anything that doesn't match has probably been repaired or replaced. Not necessarily the end of the world, and most cars over a certain age have had some bodywork, but it should prompt further questioning.
Above all, trust your instinct. Dodgy people sell dodgy cars. Anything doesn't seem right, walk away. And don't get attached to the car. Evaluate the car on its merits. Don't be swayed by it being a make and model you like. There will be lots of others if this one isn't right.
If buying privately, make sure the seller has the V5 in their name and at the same address you are viewing the vehicle at. If not, why not? Usually this will be a trader masquerading as a private seller, but equally you want to make sure the person selling the car has the right to do so.
Make sure the car comes with the full set of keys, and that they all work. Modern car keys can be eye wateringly expensive to replace, and often need programming to the car using specialist kit. The days of getting a new key sorted for £20 at the local Timpson are long gone.
Service history should be both invoices and stamps. Stamps can be bought on eBay. You want to see receipts as well. Also, a good independent marque specialist can be easily as good, if not better than a main dealer.
Make sure the panels are straight, that gaps are uniform and parallel, and that the paint shade and finish matches between panels. Look at the panels dead on, and then from the rear of the car along the each side, so you vary the light and reflections. If it all looks pretty uniform, you can be reasonably confident it's either original, or well repaired. New cars are sprayed in one process, so anything that doesn't match has probably been repaired or replaced. Not necessarily the end of the world, and most cars over a certain age have had some bodywork, but it should prompt further questioning.
Above all, trust your instinct. Dodgy people sell dodgy cars. Anything doesn't seem right, walk away. And don't get attached to the car. Evaluate the car on its merits. Don't be swayed by it being a make and model you like. There will be lots of others if this one isn't right.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Absolutely this. Enquired about a car recently circa 20k. It's got full dealer history. Ok what dates, mileage and what was done? Oh we don't have that as it's all digital now and we can't access the manufacturer digital record. Right... can you find it out a way to get it then, as I'm not about to spend this much to find it wasn't serviced correctly. Then they tell me I might be able to find out if I speak to the manufacturer. How about you do it and do it prompt if you want a sale?!fflump said:
ajap1979 said:
Assume VCheck is also worth doing?
I believe that they are pretty analogous to hpicheck. certainly no need to do both!Cant remember was it the v check that flags that, as it will show if sold at a salvage auction?
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