Headlight reflector replacement
Headlight reflector replacement
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Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Monday 7th June 2021
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Not so bad really.
Start by marking headlight beam on a wall directly in front of you. You will need this to re align new reflectors.
I removed front wheel and headlight inspection hatch then sprayed penetrating fluid on the 5 wing nuts
2 that hold cowling to body and 3 reflector adjuster screws.

Remove 2 cowling wing nuts and slowly tease cowling up and out, I used a long knife blade to cut through the blob of mastic holding cowling to top of wing.
Cut through bead of mastic that holds lense in place and remove.
This now gives access from the front to the 3 reflector screws using a pozi driver and holding wing nuts through inspection hatch simply undo them from the front.
Reflector now just comes out from the front.
Part 2 will be when I put it all back.
A few pics

























Ever wondered what your inner wing looked like smile

Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Monday 7th June 2021
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What a bag of crap that is!
Poxy pictures are upright before they are loaded!

Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Monday 7th June 2021
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Oh and I changed my engine oil and filter and replaced both steering rack gators.. a good day thumbup



Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

130 months

Monday 7th June 2021
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I hate that type of headlamp, sealed beams saved my brain

Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Monday 7th June 2021
quotequote all
Penelope Stopit said:
I hate that type of headlamp, sealed beams saved my brain
I have had nightmares thinking about this job and how I’ll wreck the lot but it’s actually ok.
I quite like the set up now I’ve easily dismantled them biggrin
My n/s one is almost intact so this shows how the mastic sealant around the glass edge is key to longevity.
I’m not sure sealed beam units last much longer than 21 years thumbup

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

130 months

Monday 7th June 2021
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Credit where credits due and all that but, they are horrible, hard enough getting sealed beams in position and holding them there while fitting a flimsy bezel

Rather you than me

Keep enjoying it that's the main thingsmile

Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Thursday 1st July 2021
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Original n/s as opposed to the new reflector and washed/ cleaned glass on o/s.

Should be a bit brighter.
Mastics a bit messy but critically it’s lined up and sealed.


Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Thursday 1st July 2021
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Adrian@

4,496 posts

303 months

Thursday 1st July 2021
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From my time replacing broken headlamp glass and accessing/adjusting the screws back when, there is a missing bosch 1300212013 seal, which allows the glass to pivot within the seal. The seal mounts on the glass with the seal being bonded to shell, this allows you to remove the glass and replace the glass/pivot the glass/access the lens. Then there is a small bead of sealant to fill the adjuster convolutions (shell to seal) and again only a small amount of sealant at the very top of the cowl (the two bonded on tags get shimmed accordingly prior to adhering the top). A@

Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 1st July 15:55

Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Thursday 1st July 2021
quotequote all
That’s a good idea having the seal.
I’ve set the reflector far enough back so no mastic should grip it. It’s been adjusted for height/ in and out/ up and down but still might need adjusting at some time.
The bonded tags have been checked for position and actually loose in the picture above while the blob on top goes off. With the shape of the cowls and then the wing its not exact so it’s about evening out the gaps I suppose.



Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 1st July 16:06

Adrian@

4,496 posts

303 months

Thursday 1st July 2021
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I used to remove the glass and blow the crud out from behind the glass often enough, re-painting the silver on the body shell...I learnt very early on, not to even touch the reflectors with anything other than a damp cloth! All very easy after you done the first 2 or 3 sets. A@

Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Thursday 1st July 2021
quotequote all
Adrian@ said:
I used to remove the glass and blow the crud out from behind the glass often enough, re-painting the silver on the body shell...I learnt very early on, not to even touch the reflectors with anything other than a damp cloth! All very easy after you done the first 2 or 3 sets. A@
Yes. Fiddly but I’m hoping the n/s will be slick.
Hot soapy water and don’t touch them afterwards, don’t touch them at all without very clean hands is probably the best tip you can get. thumbup

I managed to put them in place without greasy finger prints by very carefully holding them on there edge and from the rear using bulb holder etc to manipulate them while getting screws through holes. All fairly straight forward from there in.


Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Thursday 1st July 2021
quotequote all
Mine didn’t have a seal as headlight was taken out then re fitted again by a Tvr bodyshop. They obviously didn’t re use or put it back using the seal!
So I was unaware there is a seal you can use.
It’s watertight and that’s all that matters in the end.

Adrian@

4,496 posts

303 months

Thursday 1st July 2021
quotequote all
My thoughts are that this is common, but if the seal is there then the glass can be removed (I used a mini dent puller with plastic trim removal tool) and refitted as/like fitting a screen seal (it is a Bosch part and never seems to deteriorate..I have one here that must be from the factory in perfect condition). So, rather than blade it off mark it up and place it back, lifting the seal around the edge ...job done! All good stuff, it is the understanding how it is done, I had access to the factory to ask, before making mistakes. A@



Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 1st July 19:24

Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Thursday 1st July 2021
quotequote all
Adrian@ said:
My thoughts are that this is common, but if the seal is there then the glass can be removed (I used a mini dent puller with plastic trim removal tool) and refitted as/like fitting a screen seal (it is a Bosch part and never seems to deteriorate..I have one here that must be from the factory in perfect condition). So, rather than blade it off mark it up and place it back, lifting the seal around the edge ...job done! All good stuff, it is the understanding how it is done, I had access to the factory to ask, before making mistakes. A@



Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 1st July 19:24
Thanks for that insight Adrian.
It makes sense now as I had to build up the mastic a little as glass does not fit very flush which I think the gasket would help. I obviously wanted the glass suspended and off the body. I’ve effectively created a gasket with the sealant.
I hope the gasket is there on the n/s as that ones original Tvr factory fit. I’ll re use it if possible.

Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 1st July 20:32


Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 1st July 20:33

Zener

19,277 posts

242 months

Friday 2nd July 2021
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Yes Alan there are two big black seals like big rubber bands , I did this job when they was available from stock when Dream Machine TVR /Lotus was still a dealer well over ten years ago ,. It gets easier after the first one

bobfather

11,194 posts

276 months

Friday 2nd July 2021
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Zener said:
Yes Alan there are two big black seals like big rubber bands , I did this job when they was available from stock when Dream Machine TVR /Lotus was still a dealer well over ten years ago ,. It gets easier after the first one
This

https://partsfortvrs.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tv...


Adrian@

4,496 posts

303 months

Friday 2nd July 2021
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The TVR part number is M0436, it is still unavailable and not cheap from Bosch, my thoughts are that, are along as you know not to blade it away, then happy days.
But, most people are going to seal it in place 100% and knowing that it as such needs to be held off just that little bit so as it fits up to the cowl, and that the access to the adjuster screws is done after any main sealant is set helps. A@

Classic Chim

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

170 months

Friday 2nd July 2021
quotequote all
Zener said:
Yes Alan there are two big black seals like big rubber bands , I did this job when they was available from stock when Dream Machine TVR /Lotus was still a dealer well over ten years ago ,. It gets easier after the first one
I have these irrational mental blocks over some jobs,, usually after reading horror stories on here lol.

Not being aware there should be a gasket is now a bit annoying but after fitting reflector and setting headlight beam position I found by lining up the glass and then just filling the 3 void spaces inline with the adjuster screws with sealant and some tape holding glass in place then when gone off I could remove tape and then just fill in the small u channel created between the glass and bodywork all the way round in one go.
Basically nozzle cut to that size and just fill the void making sure just enough has gone through to inside of glass to help grip. Delicate operation.


Zener

19,277 posts

242 months

Friday 2nd July 2021
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This will make you cough headlight lenses were £22 ea and the reflectors £35 ea eek back when I did mine still looks well , although a few small flies and insects are behind the lenses rolleyes .................................................. scratchchin good job though Alun certainly brightens up your front end over that poorly lamp frown