First few hundred kms and my first Check Engine Light
Discussion
Hi Everybody,
I just purchased my Vantage and drove the first few hundred kms. On Saturday, all fine, 180 kms with everything working well, getting used to the clutch. On Sunday, after 20 mins, the car was up to temperature and the Check Engine light comes on mentioning something about emissions. Everything continues to work fine, I do another 120 kms, check engine light persists after a restart
I got the following errors showing up when looking at the OBD
Seems emission related. Fuse 22 is in place, so weird that the exhaust valve error shows up
Anybody knows what the cause could be?
Is is safe to continue driving the car? (service is meant to be in September)
I have reset the error for now
The garage where I have bought the car mentioned that the got this error once as well
Thanks in advance for any help to a new experienced Aston owner
Cheers
Laurent
I just purchased my Vantage and drove the first few hundred kms. On Saturday, all fine, 180 kms with everything working well, getting used to the clutch. On Sunday, after 20 mins, the car was up to temperature and the Check Engine light comes on mentioning something about emissions. Everything continues to work fine, I do another 120 kms, check engine light persists after a restart
I got the following errors showing up when looking at the OBD
Seems emission related. Fuse 22 is in place, so weird that the exhaust valve error shows up
Anybody knows what the cause could be?
Is is safe to continue driving the car? (service is meant to be in September)
I have reset the error for now
The garage where I have bought the car mentioned that the got this error once as well
Thanks in advance for any help to a new experienced Aston owner
Cheers
Laurent
The Secondary Air Pump runs for the first few minutes after startup to add additional air into the Catalytic Converters to promote burn as the converters are warming up. Apparently yours are not functioning properly.
These only effect emissions, and not the safe operation of the engine.
YMMV!
Larry
These only effect emissions, and not the safe operation of the engine.
YMMV!
Larry
AM4884 said:
The Secondary Air Pump runs for the first few minutes after startup to add additional air into the Catalytic Converters to promote burn as the converters are warming up. Apparently yours are not functioning properly.
These only effect emissions, and not the safe operation of the engine.
YMMV!
Larry
So that's what that noise is, thank you, you always learn something. These only effect emissions, and not the safe operation of the engine.
YMMV!
Larry
On the actual problem: are you sure your fuel cap is properly closed/undamaged? Is it known to throw errors if the system is not pressurised.
I confirm P1488 shows up when you remove the exhaust valve fuse or if you operate the CC Charger remote kit; what year is your car? On my 2011 N420 it's actually fuse 15, not 22. Check if that one is in place.
Car is from 2007, so it should be number 22
Fuel cap is ok
Fuse should be in place, I have not checked yet. Car starts in what seems to me, the silent mode. There were no Check Engine light for the first 200 kms, if the fuse would be out, I expect it would show the warning light immediately.
The engine warm up seems to be a bit slow in general, but I am not sure what is normal there since there is a lot of oil
What would be te usual duration when driving to get the temp to the middle
I have also noticed some slight engine temp variations when driving, also not sure which behavior to expect there
When driving at 80 kph in a slightly downhill tunnel of a few kms, the engine temp went down by one mark from the exact center, so wonder if the thermostat is able to close completely?
Is it normal to see such fluctuations down?
It never went up passed the middle and the weekend weather was close to 30 Celsius.
Cheers, Laurent
Fuel cap is ok
Fuse should be in place, I have not checked yet. Car starts in what seems to me, the silent mode. There were no Check Engine light for the first 200 kms, if the fuse would be out, I expect it would show the warning light immediately.
The engine warm up seems to be a bit slow in general, but I am not sure what is normal there since there is a lot of oil
What would be te usual duration when driving to get the temp to the middle
I have also noticed some slight engine temp variations when driving, also not sure which behavior to expect there
When driving at 80 kph in a slightly downhill tunnel of a few kms, the engine temp went down by one mark from the exact center, so wonder if the thermostat is able to close completely?
Is it normal to see such fluctuations down?
It never went up passed the middle and the weekend weather was close to 30 Celsius.
Cheers, Laurent
The lack of a fuse for the exhaust would not normally cause the EML light to come on, but it would show a code which is harmless in itself. If you do have a fuse in place now, the code probably hasn't been cleared from a previous occasion when it was removed (or alternatively there is a fault with the system).
Is the message "Emissions system service required"?? I had this recently, checked old posts and consensus seemed to be it is spurious, caused by changed driving conditions. Had it in for service anyway this week, and he said just give it a good long trip and it should clear. Other posts said it may clear after 8 or 9 trips. Mine did go after the service so not sure if he just cleared it on the computer or not.
When I had mine I remember the temp gauge was rock solid in the middle after changing out the thermostat which is a known issue. The thermostat and constant temp is critical in the cars running regarding other sensors, mixture etc.
Symptom of under reading temp (only small amount) was the sign of my faulty thermostat.
Symptom of under reading temp (only small amount) was the sign of my faulty thermostat.
LaurentGalaf said:
Car is from 2007, so it should be number 22
Fuel cap is ok
Fuse should be in place, I have not checked yet. Car starts in what seems to me, the silent mode. There were no Check Engine light for the first 200 kms, if the fuse would be out, I expect it would show the warning light immediately.
The engine warm up seems to be a bit slow in general, but I am not sure what is normal there since there is a lot of oil
What would be te usual duration when driving to get the temp to the middle
I have also noticed some slight engine temp variations when driving, also not sure which behavior to expect there
When driving at 80 kph in a slightly downhill tunnel of a few kms, the engine temp went down by one mark from the exact center, so wonder if the thermostat is able to close completely?
Is it normal to see such fluctuations down?
It never went up passed the middle and the weekend weather was close to 30 Celsius.
Cheers, Laurent
Yeah, as it has been said, fuse out should just record the P1488 error but no light. If in place, it should have been recorded when the previous owner removed it, as suggested by bullet7.Fuel cap is ok
Fuse should be in place, I have not checked yet. Car starts in what seems to me, the silent mode. There were no Check Engine light for the first 200 kms, if the fuse would be out, I expect it would show the warning light immediately.
The engine warm up seems to be a bit slow in general, but I am not sure what is normal there since there is a lot of oil
What would be te usual duration when driving to get the temp to the middle
I have also noticed some slight engine temp variations when driving, also not sure which behavior to expect there
When driving at 80 kph in a slightly downhill tunnel of a few kms, the engine temp went down by one mark from the exact center, so wonder if the thermostat is able to close completely?
Is it normal to see such fluctuations down?
It never went up passed the middle and the weekend weather was close to 30 Celsius.
Cheers, Laurent
As for oil temp, in normal condition (around 18°/20° degrees outside) it should sit in the middle after 15-20 minutes of driving. I have never seen it moving anywhere above or below middle once there, even in very hot/ very cold days. I think your thermostat might be on its way out.
The secondary air pump will only run between factory set engine temperatures. If the engine temperature is above around 50c it wont run. So if the engine is cold (like overnight) the pump is activated on start up. Once the temp rises above around 50c the pump is shut off. As said above this is to reduce emissions while the catalysts are warming up as they don't work until they get hot.
If you do not hear the pump whine from cold it may be the fuse for the pump has blown so check that first. If it is okay then disconnect the plug to the pump and start the engine and check for 12v. If you have 12v then the pump has probably seized. You can dismantle them, clean them out and free them off using lots of WD40.
If you do not get 12v at the plug then the fault may be the engine coolant temperature sensor. If it fails it can tell the engine ECU the temperature is -43c even when hot. Given that you may have a thermostat fault this will affect the engine ECU signal from the temperature sensor.
Even a simple diagnostic scanner should be able to display the engine temperature as received by the engine's ECU and a temperature tool such as an infrared thermometer will confirm the operation of the thermostat without any dismantling.
If you do not hear the pump whine from cold it may be the fuse for the pump has blown so check that first. If it is okay then disconnect the plug to the pump and start the engine and check for 12v. If you have 12v then the pump has probably seized. You can dismantle them, clean them out and free them off using lots of WD40.
If you do not get 12v at the plug then the fault may be the engine coolant temperature sensor. If it fails it can tell the engine ECU the temperature is -43c even when hot. Given that you may have a thermostat fault this will affect the engine ECU signal from the temperature sensor.
Even a simple diagnostic scanner should be able to display the engine temperature as received by the engine's ECU and a temperature tool such as an infrared thermometer will confirm the operation of the thermostat without any dismantling.
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