Headlight improvements
Discussion
I don't know if it's just the angle of the car and sitting lower, but I've always thought the lights on the cerb are a bit crap. And yes, it has got the uprated (overrated) bulbs.
However, call me an old stick-in-the-mud, but I don't really fancy going for the full-on multi-lens pod thing, if that's the right technical term.
Is there any way to retain the original single, large headlight lens but fit a gas discharge or xenon thing in there. Hang on, I don't even know which is which. Which is the best, and which is the one that looks "blue-ish" and really annoys me.
Tell you what, someone tell me what light technology I want and then tell me if it's feasible to stuff it behind the single large lens thing.
Clive?
>>> Edited by whatever on Friday 11th October 22:22
However, call me an old stick-in-the-mud, but I don't really fancy going for the full-on multi-lens pod thing, if that's the right technical term.
Is there any way to retain the original single, large headlight lens but fit a gas discharge or xenon thing in there. Hang on, I don't even know which is which. Which is the best, and which is the one that looks "blue-ish" and really annoys me.
Tell you what, someone tell me what light technology I want and then tell me if it's feasible to stuff it behind the single large lens thing.
Clive?
>>> Edited by whatever on Friday 11th October 22:22
I've just ordered a brighter lights kit for my S3 from mod-wise.com (it's on their website). They make an extra piece of wiring loom to upgrade headlight performance on all TVR's. Claiming an extra 25 watts are achieved at each headlight. This doesn't sound to bad for the price of £29.99 they charge for the kit. I’m also going to upgrade to Philips bulbs. Hope this improves the horrendous lights on the S.
Melvin
Melvin
mod wise will work...in the same way that a car (or white van) with one headlamp out, has one very bright dazzling light left (usually right in your rear view mirror)! the current is shared by both lamps normally, but giving another supply from the starter motor feed WILL give you an improvement of around 20%. giving you two brighter lights!
Xenon is a gas which alows a filiament to burn more brightly. a step up from halogen, which does the same.
gas discharge uses an arc light as opposed to a filliant light, which can burn MUCH brighter. they also need a lot more current/voltage so an upgrade is required in wiring / supply vastly incresing costs.
hope this helps
by the way, check your lamp lens. if its got a whitish haze and a dull reflector, its probably got a film of grp dust on it. by removing, cleanig and upgrading to philips vision plus - i atleast DOUBLED the light output on my griff wihout using the mod-wise kit giving very usable lighting (if not in the gas discharge league).
Xenon is a gas which alows a filiament to burn more brightly. a step up from halogen, which does the same.
gas discharge uses an arc light as opposed to a filliant light, which can burn MUCH brighter. they also need a lot more current/voltage so an upgrade is required in wiring / supply vastly incresing costs.
hope this helps
by the way, check your lamp lens. if its got a whitish haze and a dull reflector, its probably got a film of grp dust on it. by removing, cleanig and upgrading to philips vision plus - i atleast DOUBLED the light output on my griff wihout using the mod-wise kit giving very usable lighting (if not in the gas discharge league).
...gas discharge uses an arc light as opposed to a filliant light, which can burn MUCH brighter. they also need a lot more current/voltage so an upgrade is required in wiring / supply vastly incresing costs
You're wrong about the wiring and current.
Check out this thread:
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=23&h=0&t=19084
I'll send you a PDF file on HID if you e-mail me.
info@zertec.com
How does it work?
When a voltage of 23,000 Volts is applied across the HID gas capsule, it initiates an arc of ionised Xenon gas, which heats the enclosed metallic salts to vaporisation point. Once vaporisation of the salts has occurred, then the HID capsule produces its full light output.
It only takes around 4 seconds to initiate the ignition process. Once this has happened and the HID capsule has reached full intensity, the igniter automatically shuts off.
The HID inverter then maintains the correct operating maintenance voltage, drawing only 35 Watts of power - yet producing 3 times the light output of traditional 55 - 60 Watt Halogen wire filament bulbs.
When a voltage of 23,000 Volts is applied across the HID gas capsule, it initiates an arc of ionised Xenon gas, which heats the enclosed metallic salts to vaporisation point. Once vaporisation of the salts has occurred, then the HID capsule produces its full light output.
It only takes around 4 seconds to initiate the ignition process. Once this has happened and the HID capsule has reached full intensity, the igniter automatically shuts off.
The HID inverter then maintains the correct operating maintenance voltage, drawing only 35 Watts of power - yet producing 3 times the light output of traditional 55 - 60 Watt Halogen wire filament bulbs.
what i said about the additional wiring,was refering to the "ballast box" or voltage amplification gear.
very high voltages will be required, though possibly not at significant currents, to give the arc required. dennis seems to know more than i do - but i was giving a leymans descrption of the process.
as for costs...i've seen up to £500 for my griff, and i would call that expensive!
still they are vastly superior and look cool so if you have the cash...
very high voltages will be required, though possibly not at significant currents, to give the arc required. dennis seems to know more than i do - but i was giving a leymans descrption of the process.
as for costs...i've seen up to £500 for my griff, and i would call that expensive!
still they are vastly superior and look cool so if you have the cash...
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