New to me E36 328i - almost over heated
Discussion
Picked up an E36 328i touring auto on Saturday.
Loads of history with it including a new rad and viscous coupling 3 years ago.
Brought it home in the heat and traffic and within 10 mins the temp guage was creeping upto 3/4.
Luckily it came down as traffic got moving but almost had me in the hard shoulder.
Is it worth a full refresh of everything cooling wise and how do I check I've not bought a car with a cracked head or head gasket on the way out?
Seller seemed genuine and had owned it 12 years.
Any good specialists that aren't crazy expensive in Essex?
Did replace a rad and top hose in my old E46 320ci and found it never fully got it rid of the air!
Pic below, ironic skip picture.
Loads of history with it including a new rad and viscous coupling 3 years ago.
Brought it home in the heat and traffic and within 10 mins the temp guage was creeping upto 3/4.
Luckily it came down as traffic got moving but almost had me in the hard shoulder.
Is it worth a full refresh of everything cooling wise and how do I check I've not bought a car with a cracked head or head gasket on the way out?
Seller seemed genuine and had owned it 12 years.
Any good specialists that aren't crazy expensive in Essex?
Did replace a rad and top hose in my old E46 320ci and found it never fully got it rid of the air!
Pic below, ironic skip picture.
Cooling system is somewhat fragile on these, I mentioned in the Smoker Barge thread that I went through 3 rads in 6 years with mine (one owing to a stone piercing the bottom to be fair).
Based on what you said, I'd be surprised if a head gasket issue (I'm assuming no evidence of oil/coolant mixing on the dipstick or mayo on the oil cap). IIRC the car hadn't been driven much over the last couple of years?
Agree with V1nce Fox, (metal impeller) waterpump definitely worth doing. I'd do the thermostat + housing too.
Where in Essex are you based?
Based on what you said, I'd be surprised if a head gasket issue (I'm assuming no evidence of oil/coolant mixing on the dipstick or mayo on the oil cap). IIRC the car hadn't been driven much over the last couple of years?
Agree with V1nce Fox, (metal impeller) waterpump definitely worth doing. I'd do the thermostat + housing too.
Where in Essex are you based?
g3org3y said:
Cooling system is somewhat fragile on these, I mentioned in the Smoker Barge thread that I went through 3 rads in 6 years with mine (one owing to a stone piercing the bottom to be fair).
Based on what you said, I'd be surprised if a head gasket issue (I'm assuming no evidence of oil/coolant mixing on the dipstick or mayo on the oil cap). IIRC the car hadn't been driven much over the last couple of years?
Agree with V1nce Fox, (metal impeller) waterpump definitely worth doing. I'd do the thermostat + housing too.
Where in Essex are you based?
Might as well do the lot again then. I'm based in Chelmsford Based on what you said, I'd be surprised if a head gasket issue (I'm assuming no evidence of oil/coolant mixing on the dipstick or mayo on the oil cap). IIRC the car hadn't been driven much over the last couple of years?
Agree with V1nce Fox, (metal impeller) waterpump definitely worth doing. I'd do the thermostat + housing too.
Where in Essex are you based?
six port said:
Might as well do the lot again then. I'm based in Chelmsford
These guys are in Chelmsford and well regarded:https://www.pmwltd.co.uk/
Overheating in traffic is a shagged viscous fan coupling. Forget all the stupid 'rolled up newspaper' tests, if it looks old and grotty just replace it. Left hand thread on the 32mm nut btw. Most 328i's had aircon so make sure some goon hasn't done the 'viscous fan delete', something that ranks on the stupidity scale with selling your spare wheel.
It's probably worth fitting a new pump. A decent aftermarket one is 40 quid and they are a piece of piss to change. The E36 cooling system is simple and robust unlike the junk fitted to E46's.
It's probably worth fitting a new pump. A decent aftermarket one is 40 quid and they are a piece of piss to change. The E36 cooling system is simple and robust unlike the junk fitted to E46's.
g3org3y said:
six port said:
Might as well do the lot again then. I'm based in Chelmsford
These guys are in Chelmsford and well regarded:https://www.pmwltd.co.uk/
I had a 635csi that overheated in traffic. Viscous coupling sorted it out. With the engine hot and running at tickover you shouldn’t be able to stop it with a rolled up newspaper. I think you need a 32 mm spanner and leftie thread but otherwise straightforward. I also found the electric fan was not working so replaced that and the sender. It would only kick in if you blocked the rad with cardboard so the main repair was the viscous coupling.
Edited by fourfoldroot on Monday 19th July 19:12
geeks said:
Just to add another recommendation, https://www.cbautoservices.co.uk/ I have known Clive for years now, wouldn't trust anyone else with my car.
Also a "recommended" for Clive from me.Some really useful stuff there thanks.
Took it out this evening for a drive and thought I'd see if the heaters worked - stupidly didn't on the test drive as it was roasting hot so tested ac only!
Heaters not working, got it home and bled a little air from the rad while it was running and blowers on hot/fan on max. This gave some heat but not hot hot yet.
Is there a method to bleeding these, it's been a while and I didn't want to loosen the screw too much incase I got a face full of hot coolant at pressure, can they come right out or do they stop?
Cheers!
Took it out this evening for a drive and thought I'd see if the heaters worked - stupidly didn't on the test drive as it was roasting hot so tested ac only!
Heaters not working, got it home and bled a little air from the rad while it was running and blowers on hot/fan on max. This gave some heat but not hot hot yet.
Is there a method to bleeding these, it's been a while and I didn't want to loosen the screw too much incase I got a face full of hot coolant at pressure, can they come right out or do they stop?
Cheers!
In general there is a simple way to bleed these engines.
Get the front of the car as high as possible & run it up to temperature with the heater on full, bleeding as you go & keeping the reservoir topped up along the way.
Yes, the screw can come right out & it will likely help to do so, but obviously before it gets hot-hot.
Get the front of the car as high as possible & run it up to temperature with the heater on full, bleeding as you go & keeping the reservoir topped up along the way.
Yes, the screw can come right out & it will likely help to do so, but obviously before it gets hot-hot.
These can be a complete b
d to bleed, especially a/c cars. As a last resort I've disconnected the hose that runs from the base of the header tank along the engine and up to the heater matrix - it can airlock badly. Disconnect it at the heater end and pour coolant into it and refit it quickly. Once that hose is full they bleed up quickly.
d to bleed, especially a/c cars. As a last resort I've disconnected the hose that runs from the base of the header tank along the engine and up to the heater matrix - it can airlock badly. Disconnect it at the heater end and pour coolant into it and refit it quickly. Once that hose is full they bleed up quickly. Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff