Tensioner pulley bearing

[Dalamar]

To change this bearing, is it simply a matter of using a couple of sockets and a piece of threaded bar to draw out the bearing? I'm hoping it will press out nicely over the lip it sits in rather than destroying itself. Looking to replace with a NTN 6203ZZ bearing. It's off a 1995 Serp Chimaera.

[Sir Paolo]

It’s a good question, and it’s something I considered doing when my pulley got a bit noisy.
I couldn’t be sure that I wouldn’t destroy the plastic pulley in the process either, with the bearing being an interference fit(?).

I also considered the fact that the tensioner itself was probably worn, and not putting the same amount of tension on the belt as it did when new - seemingly this gets impacted by the heat due to its proximity to the exhaust manifold.

As such, I just went for a complete new tensioner.

[phillpot]

I recall having to trim a little plastic away to get the bearing to come out.

see this old thread . . . . . https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[SMB]

Whilst I know a bearing is cheap, i wouldn’t invest the time and risk it not fitting correctly in the moulded plastic when you can buy a good branded replacement part complete for about £35 and fit it in less thAn 5 mins? Just keep the old one as an emergency spare.

[Steve_D]

Early pulleys you could change without issues. The later ones the bearing is moulded in. I did try changing one once but the pulley cracked. As said a complete replacement unit is more cost effective.

Steve

[Nosh]

Is there not an option to do away with the pully bearing wheel completely?

[GR_TVR]

Does anyone have the part number for the complete tensioner?

[phillpot]

GR_TVR said:

Does anyone have the part number for the complete tensioner?

https://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/car-parts/engine/belts-and-pulleys/e2213-tvr-car-part-tensioner-bearing-tvr/

Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 3rd August 16:31

[Steve_D]

Nosh said:

Is there not an option to do away with the pully bearing wheel completely?

Yes you could but you would then need to design and make a belt tensioning system/brackets. Been done but why would you?

Steve

[GR_TVR]

phillpot said:

Thank you.

Edited by GR_TVR on Wednesday 4th August 09:05

[phillpot]

Nosh said:

Is there not an option to do away with the pully bearing wheel completely?

There is, made by JE Engineering

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[Dalamar]

Thanks for everyone's feedback I've decided to order a new one under part number ERR6439 that I saw in an earlier post. Hopefully, that has the correct pulley V-grooves present. I did find that you can order the pulley separately but they were £18-20 so thought it best to go for new. I'll post a pic once all is sorted.

[SMB]

phillpot said:

GR_TVR said:

Does anyone have the part number for the complete tensioner?

https://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/car-parts/engine/belts-and-pulleys/e2213-tvr-car-part-tensioner-bearing-tvr/

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372622077301?hash=item5...

Be careful with these, there are different ones for aircon cars and non aircon. Err6439 fitted my serpentine non aircon cars the eBay
Ink you posted is not correct for non aircon cars

[phillpot]

SMB said:

Be careful with these, there are different ones for aircon cars and non aircon. Err6439 fitted my serpentine non aircon cars the eBay
Ink you posted is not correct for non aircon cars

Link removed, sorry for any confusion

[GR_TVR]

No problem - no harm done!

[Dalamar]

All done. Straightforward swap except that the bolt was done up stupid-tight. Reused the original bolt as is and did up to 40Nm.

Does that torque sound about right?

Here are a couple of pics of the old and new parts. The new tensioner spring is much tighter and no twitching of the pulley on initial (cold) start up.