Discussion
The day has arrived...Cerbera bingo has delivered me a non-functioning starter solenoid.
It just whirs enthusiastically, and no amount of trying, or persuasion will make it do anything else.
If I was at home, I'd not be too fussed, but of course, I'm on holiday and about 70 miles from home.
I'm returning home on Sunday either under my own power or on the RAC Wagon of shame. I'm generally not defeated to easily, so my thought is to try and order a new starter motor, on express delivery, and fit it on the roadside.
I've got no tools, so I'll have to beg borrow and steal or visit the local Home Bargains..
If I recall, I can probably get away with allen keys, a 13mm ring spanner, skint knuckles, and luck.
Its' a 4.2 V8 so,
13mm ring - battery clamps
4mm allen - scuttle panel
4mm allen - fuel rail
4 or 6mm allen - ns inlet manifold
8mm allen - starter motor
13mm ring for battey cable to starter
I recall fitting a starter shim in around 45 minutes, so I'm thinking this is probably an hour/hour and a half tops.
Seem reasonable and have I missed anything?
I did ponder bump starting it, but if I stall it in traffoc or soemthing, that could get a bit sketchy. I'm probably more hacked off that I'm not getting to do a run up to St.Andrews, and enjoy the local roads...
Cheers,
Brian
It just whirs enthusiastically, and no amount of trying, or persuasion will make it do anything else.
If I was at home, I'd not be too fussed, but of course, I'm on holiday and about 70 miles from home.
I'm returning home on Sunday either under my own power or on the RAC Wagon of shame. I'm generally not defeated to easily, so my thought is to try and order a new starter motor, on express delivery, and fit it on the roadside.
I've got no tools, so I'll have to beg borrow and steal or visit the local Home Bargains..
If I recall, I can probably get away with allen keys, a 13mm ring spanner, skint knuckles, and luck.
Its' a 4.2 V8 so,
13mm ring - battery clamps
4mm allen - scuttle panel
4mm allen - fuel rail
4 or 6mm allen - ns inlet manifold
8mm allen - starter motor
13mm ring for battey cable to starter
I recall fitting a starter shim in around 45 minutes, so I'm thinking this is probably an hour/hour and a half tops.
Seem reasonable and have I missed anything?
I did ponder bump starting it, but if I stall it in traffoc or soemthing, that could get a bit sketchy. I'm probably more hacked off that I'm not getting to do a run up to St.Andrews, and enjoy the local roads...
Cheers,
Brian
Bogsye said:
I did ponder bump starting it, but if I stall it in traffoc or soemthing, that could get a bit sketchy.
No help at all...but I had a Morris Minor with no starter motor. Starting on the handle was Ok, until it conked out in traffic in the rain.Starting handles...they were great!
2 sMoKiN bArReLs said:
No help at all...but I had a Morris Minor with no starter motor. Starting on the handle was Ok, until it conked out in traffic in the rain.
Starting handles...they were great!
Starting handles...they were great!

I had to bump start my Austin Sprite years ago, on my own - Got it rolling, but it was suprisingly tricky trying to get back into a car that was moving, and has a door the size of a cat flap.

Bogsye said:

I had to bump start my Austin Sprite years ago, on my own - Got it rolling, but it was suprisingly tricky trying to get back into a car that was moving, and has a door the size of a cat flap.


Happy days! (I also drove my Viva for about 6 weeks with the clutch pedal on the back seat).
...try telling the young kids of today...

If you have National recovery, I'd use the breakdown, it's a "free" ride home. Well, sort of. Unless you have a policy that I'm considering; very cheap but with a £40 'excess' fi you actually call them out.
I once had no oil pressure on the gauge in a Chimaera 500, back in 2001. RAC took me the 150 miles home. The next day I found the lead from the sender had come off... No, I didn't do it deliberately, but it did get me thinking.
I once had no oil pressure on the gauge in a Chimaera 500, back in 2001. RAC took me the 150 miles home. The next day I found the lead from the sender had come off... No, I didn't do it deliberately, but it did get me thinking.

Your tool list sounds about right but depending on how far you plan to move the fuel rail or intake manifold around you'll want a screwdriver to undo some hose clamps (induction hoses, brake servo hose, vaccum hoses). You might want to consider taking the throttles and fuel rail off as a complete assembly. Yes you can end up with an air leak because you pinch/misplace 1 of the O rings that seal the heat barrier plates to the TBs or the head but thats better than taking a chunk out of an injector O ring when you try to refit the rail to the TBs and leaking fuel everywhere. Also from memory the airbox to TB bolts need a 5mm allen key.
Back in the `80's on a camping holiday in the lakes- the steering rack failed on my Cooper S. we managed to shuffle it onto a garage forecourt and pleased with the proprietor to allow it to be left there while we pondered our options. walking back to the tent we passed through a car park with an AA recruiting stand. (Bingo!) I joined the AA and left it a couple of days before summoning their assistance. Dunno if you can still get away with this, but if you don't have recovery?- it could be an option....
Thanks folks - Agree CerbWill, I'll possibly need a screwdriver or two.
I've got RAC cover, but I'm thinking I'll lose time to waiting around, and then it'll be a slow journey home on a wagon. On that basis I think it's worth a punt to try and change it, so I've ordered a new starter this morning, which hopefully will be with me either Friday or Saturday.
Looking at the weather however, I may not be so lucky - hopefully it's not going to be thunder storms as forecast
I've got RAC cover, but I'm thinking I'll lose time to waiting around, and then it'll be a slow journey home on a wagon. On that basis I think it's worth a punt to try and change it, so I've ordered a new starter this morning, which hopefully will be with me either Friday or Saturday.
Looking at the weather however, I may not be so lucky - hopefully it's not going to be thunder storms as forecast

FarmyardPants said:
Could you not bump start it and fix it at your leisure at home?
I did consider that, but I was a bit concerned if I got into heavy traffic and stalled it, I'd be in bother. That plan may yet come into play..
Cerbera ownership is a lifetime dedicated to taking the path of most resistance

Byker28i said:
Anywhere local that will rent garage or covered space? Would it help with a ramp or does it come off from above. Do you need to remove the fuel rails for access from above?
It comes out entirely from above. Fuel rail and N/S throttles off for access, or remove both sets of throttles with the fuel rail still attached to avoid any issues with injector O-rings and the throttle link bar. Doesn't take long really.Where are you on holiday?
There may be someone local who could bring tools and help, or even may have a trailer and could recover you!
If you're in NE Scotland, I could send help with a trailer and a two-post lift indoors!!!
This is the Cerbera forum and we try to help each other when we can!
Best of luck with it if you're away from civilisation!
Rob
There may be someone local who could bring tools and help, or even may have a trailer and could recover you!
If you're in NE Scotland, I could send help with a trailer and a two-post lift indoors!!!
This is the Cerbera forum and we try to help each other when we can!

Best of luck with it if you're away from civilisation!
Rob
Robscim said:
Where are you on holiday?
There may be someone local who could bring tools and help, or even may have a trailer and could recover you!
If you're in NE Scotland, I could send help with a trailer and a two-post lift indoors!!!
This is the Cerbera forum and we try to help each other when we can!
Best of luck with it if you're away from civilisation!
Rob
That's very kind - We're in Elie in Fife - most cars around here look to be in warranty, and would be recovered in one of those curtain sided recovery vehicles There may be someone local who could bring tools and help, or even may have a trailer and could recover you!
If you're in NE Scotland, I could send help with a trailer and a two-post lift indoors!!!
This is the Cerbera forum and we try to help each other when we can!

Best of luck with it if you're away from civilisation!
Rob

I'm off to raid B&Q (at Leven) for allen keys and 13mm spanner, so it'll be quite cheap.
I've got the car onto the driveway, so it'll not be too bad, aside from the weather..That'll focus the mind and make me work faster!!
Bogsye said:
That's very kind - We're in Elie in Fife - most cars around here look to be in warranty, and would be recovered in one of those curtain sided recovery vehicles
I'm going to give it a shot as I reckon it's not a bad job.
I'm off to raid B&Q (at Leven) for allen keys and 13mm spanner, so it'll be quite cheap.
I've got the car onto the driveway, so it'll not be too bad, aside from the weather..That'll focus the mind and make me work faster!!
No worries - sorry you're not closer.
I'm off to raid B&Q (at Leven) for allen keys and 13mm spanner, so it'll be quite cheap.
I've got the car onto the driveway, so it'll not be too bad, aside from the weather..That'll focus the mind and make me work faster!!
Best of luck with it - and the weather!!
Hopefully you'll have it sorted fairly quickly!

Rob
CerbWill said:
Byker28i said:
Anywhere local that will rent garage or covered space? Would it help with a ramp or does it come off from above. Do you need to remove the fuel rails for access from above?
It comes out entirely from above. Fuel rail and N/S throttles off for access, or remove both sets of throttles with the fuel rail still attached to avoid any issues with injector O-rings and the throttle link bar. Doesn't take long really.Yay! That’s it up and running. 1.5 hours of work at a leisurely pace had it changed out.
I’ve fitted the updated Wosp unit - it says Tilton on the sticker on the body?
As noted earlier I’d forgotten to consider the various pipes on the inlet manifold. In my case I removed the following:
1) Pipe onto regulator on fuel rail
2) Servo vacuum pipe
3) Small vacuum pipe onto inlet manifold
The nut on the solenoid for the battery cable was a 12mm. As also mentioned earlier too a 5mm Allen key is needed for the front inlet manifold supports (the ones with the spacers)
I managed to keep all the injectors in the fuel rail by carefully lifting it up, which avoided sloshing fuel everywhere.
It certainly sounds nicer when it turns over on the starter and of course I ensured the 1mm shim between the bell housing and the stater is there.
The old motor had an April 2010 build date on it. It looks a pretty standard affair so I must have a look to see the mileage was on the MOT back then. Suspect it’s not much of an innings.
Time for an obligatory test drive!
I’ve fitted the updated Wosp unit - it says Tilton on the sticker on the body?
As noted earlier I’d forgotten to consider the various pipes on the inlet manifold. In my case I removed the following:
1) Pipe onto regulator on fuel rail
2) Servo vacuum pipe
3) Small vacuum pipe onto inlet manifold
The nut on the solenoid for the battery cable was a 12mm. As also mentioned earlier too a 5mm Allen key is needed for the front inlet manifold supports (the ones with the spacers)
I managed to keep all the injectors in the fuel rail by carefully lifting it up, which avoided sloshing fuel everywhere.
It certainly sounds nicer when it turns over on the starter and of course I ensured the 1mm shim between the bell housing and the stater is there.
The old motor had an April 2010 build date on it. It looks a pretty standard affair so I must have a look to see the mileage was on the MOT back then. Suspect it’s not much of an innings.
Time for an obligatory test drive!
Congratulations
It's interesting to read your thread and contrast it to this
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
It's interesting to read your thread and contrast it to this
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
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