2A87 VANOS help and others
Discussion
Hi all,
Back with more questions around my recently purchased 2007 330i. I got a code reader (Creator C310+) to try and diagnose anything wrong with the car as it sounds a little rough when warm and got the following codes...
DME Module:
2A87 Exhaust VANOS, mechanism
2C7F Lambda control 2
2C6C Oxygen sensor 2 after catalytic converter: System check
CAS Module:
A0B4: Engine start, starter operation
Now, my main worry and I suspect the source of the rough running when warm is the first code related to the VANOS. I've searched a couple of other threads and forums and see the general procedure is check the oil level, check the oil filler cap, clean the VANOS solenoid, replace VANOS solenoid. Hopefully this won't go past step 3.
As for the other codes, advice is welcome! Although I'm bemused why a 'System check' would appear as a trouble code or why A0B4 would appear when the car starts fine.
Back with more questions around my recently purchased 2007 330i. I got a code reader (Creator C310+) to try and diagnose anything wrong with the car as it sounds a little rough when warm and got the following codes...
DME Module:
2A87 Exhaust VANOS, mechanism
2C7F Lambda control 2
2C6C Oxygen sensor 2 after catalytic converter: System check
CAS Module:
A0B4: Engine start, starter operation
Now, my main worry and I suspect the source of the rough running when warm is the first code related to the VANOS. I've searched a couple of other threads and forums and see the general procedure is check the oil level, check the oil filler cap, clean the VANOS solenoid, replace VANOS solenoid. Hopefully this won't go past step 3.
As for the other codes, advice is welcome! Although I'm bemused why a 'System check' would appear as a trouble code or why A0B4 would appear when the car starts fine.
Had the same error on intake side on my E91 325i. The remedy was the following.
Oil change & dealer oil filter.
New oil filter cap as my plastic cage was loose when fitted with the oil filter.
New vanos solenoid.
I've always been under the impression cleaning Vanos solenoids does naff all.
Hope this helps
Oil change & dealer oil filter.
New oil filter cap as my plastic cage was loose when fitted with the oil filter.
New vanos solenoid.
I've always been under the impression cleaning Vanos solenoids does naff all.
Hope this helps
Edited by skullandbiscuits on Saturday 7th August 13:59
g3org3y said:
Are these definitely current codes and not historical ones?
If you're going to replace the Vanos solenoid(s) I'd go with OEM BMW rather than any aftermarket eBay rubbish.
They could well be old ones, I cleared them and they haven't come back, though I've only had the engine on for two mins after it was washed and it still sounds a little odd.If you're going to replace the Vanos solenoid(s) I'd go with OEM BMW rather than any aftermarket eBay rubbish.
Discovered this afternoon when attempting to go to the shops that it needs a new battery. Showing 10.7V with engine off in the secret menu thing when its meant to be over 11. Sigh. Halfords, ATS and others seem to quote a battery replacement for £140+ whereas I can get this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Exide-Premium-starting-ba... and fit myself (and get it registered at a garage) for significantly less. Amazon reckons it works with a 330i, one of the reviews even confirms that, it seems too good to be true almost though.
SideshowCecil said:
They could well be old ones, I cleared them and they haven't come back, though I've only had the engine on for two mins after it was washed and it still sounds a little odd.
Discovered this afternoon when attempting to go to the shops that it needs a new battery. Showing 10.7V with engine off in the secret menu thing when its meant to be over 11. Sigh. Halfords, ATS and others seem to quote a battery replacement for £140+ whereas I can get this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Exide-Premium-starting-ba... and fit myself (and get it registered at a garage) for significantly less. Amazon reckons it works with a 330i, one of the reviews even confirms that, it seems too good to be true almost though.
Check out Tayna for sensible priced batteries. Discovered this afternoon when attempting to go to the shops that it needs a new battery. Showing 10.7V with engine off in the secret menu thing when its meant to be over 11. Sigh. Halfords, ATS and others seem to quote a battery replacement for £140+ whereas I can get this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Exide-Premium-starting-ba... and fit myself (and get it registered at a garage) for significantly less. Amazon reckons it works with a 330i, one of the reviews even confirms that, it seems too good to be true almost though.
BMW can be pretty competitive too; Cotswold BMW quoted me £160 delivered for an OE battery.
Another vote for OE VANOS solenoids. They’re £113 each on eBay and there are some 15% discount codes kicking about at the mo.
Tayna seems a decent shout, less than OEM BMW by the sounds of it! Some people seem to say you need the battery both reprogrammed and registered if you're switching to a different CCA, Ah spec battery, anyone got any experience with this?
Will get OEM solenoids if that's what it comes to, currently hedging my bets that battery issues may be the source of this f*ckery!
Will get OEM solenoids if that's what it comes to, currently hedging my bets that battery issues may be the source of this f*ckery!
Even if your swapping like for like batteries you need to register it.
I have Carly, so I used that when I fitted the battery to my other half’s 125i earlier this year.
There are other options, but I like the fact Carly works from my phone and has a pretty foolproof interface. It’s not the cheapest but it’s saved me more money then it’s cost.
I have Carly, so I used that when I fitted the battery to my other half’s 125i earlier this year.
There are other options, but I like the fact Carly works from my phone and has a pretty foolproof interface. It’s not the cheapest but it’s saved me more money then it’s cost.
Charged my battery yesterday and it now seems to start the car fine and is still displaying 12.2 V this evening so I'll probably monitor that for a week or so before committing to a new battery.
Took it for a drive to give the battery a bit of a charge and checked the voltage again once the engine was running, 14.7 V so alternator seems to be fine too. Somewhat annoyingly the loud throaty noise (that I originally blamed on the VANOS issue) returned when the car had a bit of temperature in it. Plugged the code reader in when I got back and no VANOS codes, so assuming they were old codes that I cleared, the 2C7F Lambda control 2 code had reappeared though. This, combined with a bit of a smell in the cabin when stopped, and the throaty noise makes me think the problem is actually a leak from the exhaust somewhere so it's going off to the garage for a check ASAP.
While I'm here, what sort of temps do people get on their N52? The gauge in the binnacle has 120°C in the middle, but the needle never seemed to get there, sitting at roughly 100°C.
Took it for a drive to give the battery a bit of a charge and checked the voltage again once the engine was running, 14.7 V so alternator seems to be fine too. Somewhat annoyingly the loud throaty noise (that I originally blamed on the VANOS issue) returned when the car had a bit of temperature in it. Plugged the code reader in when I got back and no VANOS codes, so assuming they were old codes that I cleared, the 2C7F Lambda control 2 code had reappeared though. This, combined with a bit of a smell in the cabin when stopped, and the throaty noise makes me think the problem is actually a leak from the exhaust somewhere so it's going off to the garage for a check ASAP.
While I'm here, what sort of temps do people get on their N52? The gauge in the binnacle has 120°C in the middle, but the needle never seemed to get there, sitting at roughly 100°C.
SideshowCecil said:
Charged my battery yesterday and it now seems to start the car fine and is still displaying 12.2 V this evening so I'll probably monitor that for a week or so before committing to a new battery.
Took it for a drive to give the battery a bit of a charge and checked the voltage again once the engine was running, 14.7 V so alternator seems to be fine too. Somewhat annoyingly the loud throaty noise (that I originally blamed on the VANOS issue) returned when the car had a bit of temperature in it. Plugged the code reader in when I got back and no VANOS codes, so assuming they were old codes that I cleared, the 2C7F Lambda control 2 code had reappeared though. This, combined with a bit of a smell in the cabin when stopped, and the throaty noise makes me think the problem is actually a leak from the exhaust somewhere so it's going off to the garage for a check ASAP.
While I'm here, what sort of temps do people get on their N52? The gauge in the binnacle has 120°C in the middle, but the needle never seemed to get there, sitting at roughly 100°C.
Let us know how you get on.Took it for a drive to give the battery a bit of a charge and checked the voltage again once the engine was running, 14.7 V so alternator seems to be fine too. Somewhat annoyingly the loud throaty noise (that I originally blamed on the VANOS issue) returned when the car had a bit of temperature in it. Plugged the code reader in when I got back and no VANOS codes, so assuming they were old codes that I cleared, the 2C7F Lambda control 2 code had reappeared though. This, combined with a bit of a smell in the cabin when stopped, and the throaty noise makes me think the problem is actually a leak from the exhaust somewhere so it's going off to the garage for a check ASAP.
While I'm here, what sort of temps do people get on their N52? The gauge in the binnacle has 120°C in the middle, but the needle never seemed to get there, sitting at roughly 100°C.
Temp gauge on my N52 engined 630i is typically 100-115.
Update, as I'm sure you're all on the edge of your seats.
I took the car to an exhaust specialist garage and told them I thought it had a leak. They called pretty quickly to say the exhaust was split in several places and the only thing they or bmw would be able to do is replace the whole exhaust, likely costing £3k ish. Urgh. He then told me that they had sent a couple of these sorts of jobs down to a powerflow exhaust distributor called 'The Exhaust Doctor' and had had good results as they can repair exhausts rather than replace them. So off I went to Dr Exhaust (not sure if he's medically qualified or has a PhD) who seemed to be extremely busy with very throaty sounding BMWs. He told me they were booked up until the start of September but if I left the car there they could try and fit it in around other stuff.
The next day he rang to say the flanges on the exhaust were corroded in several places as BMW make the exhausts out of mild steel (very little corrosion protection). He said they can cut off the rusty bits, weld on some shiny stainless steel bits and give me a lifetime guarantee on the exhaust while they're at it.
Fast forward 8 days and £300 and my 330i no longer smelt bad or sounded terrible. It still had the check engine light on when they gave it back but the only two codes were Lambda sensor and exhaust VANOS which were the codes I had before, they haven't come back now since I cleared them. Not entirely sure why Prof Exhaust didn't clear these codes but as I said they were very busy so it can be forgiven.
The car feels great now, its smooth, quiet at speed, comfy and surprisingly economical (37 mpg on the 15 mile run to work this morning). Also sounds brilliant when you open it up with the windows down and is more than powerful enough for me, overtaking is significantly easier now than it was in the diesel astra.
I took the car to an exhaust specialist garage and told them I thought it had a leak. They called pretty quickly to say the exhaust was split in several places and the only thing they or bmw would be able to do is replace the whole exhaust, likely costing £3k ish. Urgh. He then told me that they had sent a couple of these sorts of jobs down to a powerflow exhaust distributor called 'The Exhaust Doctor' and had had good results as they can repair exhausts rather than replace them. So off I went to Dr Exhaust (not sure if he's medically qualified or has a PhD) who seemed to be extremely busy with very throaty sounding BMWs. He told me they were booked up until the start of September but if I left the car there they could try and fit it in around other stuff.
The next day he rang to say the flanges on the exhaust were corroded in several places as BMW make the exhausts out of mild steel (very little corrosion protection). He said they can cut off the rusty bits, weld on some shiny stainless steel bits and give me a lifetime guarantee on the exhaust while they're at it.
Fast forward 8 days and £300 and my 330i no longer smelt bad or sounded terrible. It still had the check engine light on when they gave it back but the only two codes were Lambda sensor and exhaust VANOS which were the codes I had before, they haven't come back now since I cleared them. Not entirely sure why Prof Exhaust didn't clear these codes but as I said they were very busy so it can be forgiven.
The car feels great now, its smooth, quiet at speed, comfy and surprisingly economical (37 mpg on the 15 mile run to work this morning). Also sounds brilliant when you open it up with the windows down and is more than powerful enough for me, overtaking is significantly easier now than it was in the diesel astra.
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