V8V Battery Conditioning connection problem
Discussion
Hi,
I have a problem conditioning battery on my 2012 V8V: If I tray to charge/condition battery from the boot (as designed) the charger would signal bad connection. If I charge directly on the battery it works without a problem.
I'd prefer to connect Battery Conditioner in the boot as I do not want to leave car unlocked and if I close the door with cable attached I'm afraid it will eventually damage the seals of the doors.
Anyone encountered similar problem? Any solution?
Thanks in advance.
I have a problem conditioning battery on my 2012 V8V: If I tray to charge/condition battery from the boot (as designed) the charger would signal bad connection. If I charge directly on the battery it works without a problem.
I'd prefer to connect Battery Conditioner in the boot as I do not want to leave car unlocked and if I close the door with cable attached I'm afraid it will eventually damage the seals of the doors.
Anyone encountered similar problem? Any solution?
Thanks in advance.
bogie said:
Yeah in my first Vantage I had this and was informed at service time it was a known issue with some cars having dodgy wiring to the boot socket. They fixed it under warranty.
Thanks @bogie that explains my problem. I guess you do not know where exactly was the problem? My warranty is obviously out and nearest official service 4 hours drive away :-)
nekaj said:
bogie said:
Yeah in my first Vantage I had this and was informed at service time it was a known issue with some cars having dodgy wiring to the boot socket. They fixed it under warranty.
Thanks @bogie that explains my problem. I guess you do not know where exactly was the problem? My warranty is obviously out and nearest official service 4 hours drive away :-)
Worth a quick check that connections are the correct way around and on the terminals etc...and obviously check the fuse, although usually if the cabin 12v is working and boot is not then its the boot wiring
Edited by bogie on Thursday 19th August 14:43
bogie said:
I dont know exactly its about 10 years ago now, but I seem to remember it being something fairly simple behind the plug in the boot because it didn't take them long at all to fix.
Worth a quick check that connections are the correct way around and on the terminals etc...and obviously check the fuse, although usually if the cabin 12v is working and boot is not then its the boot wiring
great. Thank you!Worth a quick check that connections are the correct way around and on the terminals etc...and obviously check the fuse, although usually if the cabin 12v is working and boot is not then its the boot wiring
Edited by bogie on Thursday 19th August 14:43
What charger are you using? I used a CTEK charger and I had the plug the adapter in and rotate it to make sure I got a good connection. But despite that I sometimes came back to find the battery wasn’t being charged.
Anyway, if you are using a CTEK, someone on here recommended removing the red cap off the end of the adaptor. That fixed my issue.
Anyway, if you are using a CTEK, someone on here recommended removing the red cap off the end of the adaptor. That fixed my issue.
I had a few issues with my rear auxiliary connector when connected to the ctek. I’d often come back to the car to find that it had stop charging and was displaying the error light confirming no connection was detected. After getting fed up with having to keep wiggling it to find the correct position I came up with a plan B…
I now have the CTek connected to the battery jump terminals on the offside of the engine bay, the cable passes through a small gap in the arch liner where the ctek quick connect fitting attaches to the charger. When driving I simply push the connector back in to the arch liner so it doesn’t contact the wheel. It’s worked perfectly like this for the last 12 months and never fails to maintain charge.
The long term plan is to Purchase a longer cable so that I can move the connector to the lower grill at the front. It’s certainly much better than having to keep the bootlid on the latch and having to run the cable down the rear bumper.
I now have the CTek connected to the battery jump terminals on the offside of the engine bay, the cable passes through a small gap in the arch liner where the ctek quick connect fitting attaches to the charger. When driving I simply push the connector back in to the arch liner so it doesn’t contact the wheel. It’s worked perfectly like this for the last 12 months and never fails to maintain charge.
The long term plan is to Purchase a longer cable so that I can move the connector to the lower grill at the front. It’s certainly much better than having to keep the bootlid on the latch and having to run the cable down the rear bumper.
I've given up fixing the socket in the booth. I'll get the socks fied on my next annual service in winter.
I'm charging directly on the battery with a cable lead through a semi open booth so that the car can be locked...
Anyone have any idea what the size of screws on the battery connectors are? I'm trying to add a permanent connection with my ctek ...
I'm charging directly on the battery with a cable lead through a semi open booth so that the car can be locked...
Anyone have any idea what the size of screws on the battery connectors are? I'm trying to add a permanent connection with my ctek ...
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