Steering Rack Hydraulic Oil Reservoir...

[Mr Cerbera]

Wotcha Chaps,

Asked about this little critter a few weeks ago and now have a supplementary question:

Why does it have 2 different sized out/inlets.
Shirley it's just the reservoir to keep the Steering Rack maintained at the correct level ?

Any help, or amusing comments, would be appreciated.
(I'll get the first one in about the female anatomy !!)

Ta !

PJ

[natureboy8891]

The big one is the feed to the pump and is low pressure the small one is the return from the rack which will be high pressure so doesn't need as big a pipe.

[TwinKam]

...and it doesn't just maintain a head of fluid, Paul there is a constant flow through it.
Rik

[Mr Cerbera]

Thanks Chaps, that's very kind of you

Pump ?? ....

[CerbWill]

Mr Cerbera said:

Pump ?? ....

Erm (at risk of being due a Parrot for people who visit other parts of PH), the pump that provides the assistance to your Power Assisted Steering system. It's at the back of the triple pump assembly. The input and output seen here just below the part number marking on the block.

[ukkid35]

I know the early engines had different dipstick routing, but they also seem to connect to the sump with some sort of adaptor - what is that about?

[Mr Cerbera]

Wotcha Lads

Will , thanks very much for that excellent picture and explanation of the AJP triple pump.
It helped a lot.

Unfortunately, now that I have that new knowledge, I have stuck my nose where it shiouldn't go and have found a big leak of ATF oil in that area.

I am now faced with the problem of having to try and find out if it's coming from within the pump or the lines.

Soooooooooo, I wonder if you can tell me....

Is it an engine-out job to check the Steering Rack Pump area ?

Ta !

Mr. Just-refilling-my-spirit-after-misery

[TwinKam]

Don't worry Paul, the PAS pump can be changed with engine in situ. Just two pipe connections (LP in and HP out), three mounting bolts and it pulls back off the triangular drive flange.
But I'd recommend washing it all off first and running it to determine the source of the leak... it may just be a loose hose clip!
Best,
Rik

[Mr Cerbera]

Thanks Rik !

Phew, OK looks like Mrs. Cerbera will be getting her BlackBoyfriend back

[RUSSELLM]

[TwinKam]

Mr Cerbera said:

Thanks Rik !

Phew, OK looks like Mrs. Cerbera will be getting her BlackBoyfriend back

From what I've read, she very much enjoys all that rôle play stuff...

[Mr Cerbera]

TwinKam said:

From what I've read, she very much enjoys all that rôle play stuff...

Damn ! The World's worst kept Secret is out !


Hiya Russ

[RUSSELLM]

Howdy Paul

[CerbWill]

Mr Cerbera said:

Wotcha Lads

Will , thanks very much for that excellent picture and explanation of the AJP triple pump.
It helped a lot.

Unfortunately, now that I have that new knowledge, I have stuck my nose where it shiouldn't go and have found a big leak of ATF oil in that area.

I am now faced with the problem of having to try and find out if it's coming from within the pump or the lines.

Soooooooooo, I wonder if you can tell me....

Is it an engine-out job to check the Steering Rack Pump area ?

Ta !

Mr. Just-refilling-my-spirit-after-misery

Given the annoyance and expense of changing the pump I strongly suggest a good check of the lines and the security of their connection to the pump first. Presumably the fluid you're seeing is red or redish? If it isnt I'd suspect its an engine oil leak from the cam coverr if you've had them off recently.

I'm having power steering issues so I've changed the pump recently, twice infact. The pump is from a Land Rover but my assessment of cheap LR pumps from ebay is that they're crap. I fitted one and it didnt pump at all. Turning the steering and/or reving the engine to spin the pump faster made no difference, it just didn't want to suck any fluid through from the reservoir. Car was slightly nose up too which should've helped. A new one from TVR parts worked immediately. Didnt fix my issues (no PAS when hot) so I suspect the rack now. Yay.

Anyway. The pump. I found removal of the dipstick tube was essential to getting the pump out on my car, and it makes access to the bolts previously described by another poster easier. Ball ended allen bits on a wobble bar and ratchet are the order of the day. As I've got the ACT Performance sectioned manifolds I removed 1 section to improve access. I'm not sure if it could be done with a standard manifold on but I'd say if it was possible it turns the job from somewhat annoying into an utter bd.

[ukkid35]

Yes ball end hex keys, no the standard manifold isn't an issue

Try not to lose the nylon inserts from the 'dog clutch'

[Mr Cerbera]

Cheers Lads
That info is inspirational

Ta !

[Mr Cerbera]

TwinKam said:

Don't worry Paul, the PAS pump can be changed with engine in situ. Just two pipe connections (LP in and HP out), three mounting bolts and it pulls back off the triangular drive flange.
But I'd recommend washing it all off first and running it to determine the source of the leak... it may just be a loose hose clip!
Best,
Rik

OMG Rik, How on earth did you find that out ? Do you have X-Ray vision ?

The best view I can get is from underneath the car. From there I can only see
one Banjo Head and Bolt (The MoFu below) and it is 18 cm away from the narest access point.

Any idea waht size it is, as I'll have to go and buy a ring for the Job.

Ta !

[CerbWill]

Can't help with the thread size of the bolt. Pretty sure it takes a 3/4" spanner to undo it though. Wheres this massive leak of PAS fluid?

[Mr Cerbera]

CerbWill said:

Can't help with the thread size of the bolt. Pretty sure it takes a 3/4" spanner to undo it though. Wheres this massive leak of PAS fluid?

Hi Will,

Thanks for replying

Sorry about my bad terminology... I needed the AF/Metric size of the Bolt Head.
Not interested in the thread size (at the moment )

I followed Rik's advice and cleaned the area off as best I could before exposing any thread to the atmosphere / crap that surrounded the area.

Will off and try and find a supplier of Imperial Rings over here

Double Ta !

[CerbWill]

That bolt is for the pressure line (obviously) and could just need nipping up, or maybe some new copper washers and retightening. The feed hose, being low pressure, is just jubilee clipped to the top of the pump and runs really close to the exhaust manifold. If you get the airbox off and/or get your head in the engine bay and try to look back and under the exhaust manifold you'll see the feed pipe. Is the heat causing it to break down? You'll probably need the F1 panel removed if you have the later type that sits higher up.