Discussion
As you run your finger down the slit that the door glass emerges from there you will feel something hairy which the guy who painted my car didn't mask up very well. As a result it's now a matted solid clump. I'm guessing it's car specific due to the length of the doors. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?
Also the top window seal that the glass pushes into when it closes is a bit tatty so same question.
And The big lump of rubber at the top front inside corner of each door. I wouldn't even know how to describe that to Mr Google to find them.
There are a few of these sort of questions coming as the car has been in dry storage for some years and now it's coming back out for a good fettling ready for next year. In 2015/16 the late and great Richard Thorpe did a full body off chassis and suspension refurb, the Joolz did a big brakes upgrade and a lot of other fettling, after which it barely did 500 miles before being laid up. It sounds daft but after 3 clutches and a diff in 500 miles the steering ribbon packed in and I just lost my rag with it, stuck it in a carcoon.
5 Years later after regaining my composure I'm ready to tackle it again so I'm getting all the other bits done to make it "perfect", or at least as good as they ever are until the next thing packs up
What finally convinced me to get back in the saddle was finding that after 5 years the clutch master cylinder was still full and the clutch worked. For the entire time I have owned the car (from 2007) I have never had a clutch that worked for more than a month before either the master or slave peed all the fluid out or the plates fell apart.
Also the top window seal that the glass pushes into when it closes is a bit tatty so same question.
And The big lump of rubber at the top front inside corner of each door. I wouldn't even know how to describe that to Mr Google to find them.
There are a few of these sort of questions coming as the car has been in dry storage for some years and now it's coming back out for a good fettling ready for next year. In 2015/16 the late and great Richard Thorpe did a full body off chassis and suspension refurb, the Joolz did a big brakes upgrade and a lot of other fettling, after which it barely did 500 miles before being laid up. It sounds daft but after 3 clutches and a diff in 500 miles the steering ribbon packed in and I just lost my rag with it, stuck it in a carcoon.
5 Years later after regaining my composure I'm ready to tackle it again so I'm getting all the other bits done to make it "perfect", or at least as good as they ever are until the next thing packs up
What finally convinced me to get back in the saddle was finding that after 5 years the clutch master cylinder was still full and the clutch worked. For the entire time I have owned the car (from 2007) I have never had a clutch that worked for more than a month before either the master or slave peed all the fluid out or the plates fell apart.Tilton remote slave cylinder fixed my clutch issues ‘permanently’ (famous last words!). Other experience from having taken on a laid up car - check all hoses and radiator, consider replacing all fuel hose with ethanol resistant type - gates barricade or cohline.
Good luck, let us know how the ‘reanimation’ goes.
Good luck, let us know how the ‘reanimation’ goes.
DCerebrate said:
Tilton remote slave cylinder fixed my clutch issues ‘permanently’ (famous last words!). Other experience from having taken on a laid up car - check all hoses and radiator, consider replacing all fuel hose with ethanol resistant type - gates barricade or cohline.
Good luck, let us know how the ‘reanimation’ goes.
'remote' slave cylinder, as in external, or concentric (internal)?Good luck, let us know how the ‘reanimation’ goes.
All the water/fuel/oil/aircon hoses were replaced by RT in 2015/16 so I'm hoping they should be OK. No signs of any problems and the dribble of fuel it had in the tank was pre ethanol anyway. With a gerry can of fresh super unleaded it fired up first press of the button and ran perfectly. Not a drop of anything leaking out anywhere.
The clutch slave (IIRC) is a raceproved one. It's had at least 3/4 original slaves and this was the second raceproved but the first was found to have a manufacturing fault when it came out which was why it packed up within days. I remember reading a thread on the tilton slave conversion. That may be the next step if the current one doesn't prove reliable.
Had a fun day yesterday on the slow drivers window which is another long term problem. I tried all the old "fixes" like thicker wires, cleaning connectors, greasing, cleaning etc over the years and now I can confirm the real fix. The runners were worn out and window was rubbing on sticky half rotted rubber not smooth felt. Put in new felt runners and 100% totally cured for peanuts and a couple of hours of sitting down work.
I found the big rubber blobs for the top front of the doors U1184 and U1185. Power have them listed but I'm waiting to see if they actually have any.
The top seals that the window pushes into are proving more of a challenge to find.
Edited for speeeling
The clutch slave (IIRC) is a raceproved one. It's had at least 3/4 original slaves and this was the second raceproved but the first was found to have a manufacturing fault when it came out which was why it packed up within days. I remember reading a thread on the tilton slave conversion. That may be the next step if the current one doesn't prove reliable.
Had a fun day yesterday on the slow drivers window which is another long term problem. I tried all the old "fixes" like thicker wires, cleaning connectors, greasing, cleaning etc over the years and now I can confirm the real fix. The runners were worn out and window was rubbing on sticky half rotted rubber not smooth felt. Put in new felt runners and 100% totally cured for peanuts and a couple of hours of sitting down work.
I found the big rubber blobs for the top front of the doors U1184 and U1185. Power have them listed but I'm waiting to see if they actually have any.
The top seals that the window pushes into are proving more of a challenge to find.
Edited for speeeling
Edited by fatjon on Tuesday 31st August 10:42
Racetech
Original Equipment - Part No. TVR U0399 Door Glass Rubber Felt TVR
Sold by the metre I reckon you need a bit over 1m for each side so I bought 4M so I can keep some for down the line when it becomes unobtanium.
Easier to take the runners off the door to fit it, just 3 countersunk allen bolts on each runner, so easy enough. Good clean out of the channels and a bit of soapy water to help the new rubbers drop in. A bit of patience needed to nail the technique of getting them in straight but once on the bench it was less than 2 mins per runner pushing them gently in the middle with a fat flat blade screwdriver then a bit of gentle teasing to get them just right.
Tip of the day... start with the windows in the "lowered for door opening position" and mark the glass with a bit of tipex to get it back in level and at just the right height. Saves some trouble later!
Also a good opportunity to clean all the s
t off the glass that doesn't come out of the door usually. Pay attention to the edges to remove all the manky rubber which has been rubbed in from the old runners, and don't wipe off your tipex marks while doing it like I did.
I also cleaned all the old grease out of the exposed bits of the lift mechanism with aerosol brake cleaner and squirted some fresh stuff in.
Original Equipment - Part No. TVR U0399 Door Glass Rubber Felt TVR
Sold by the metre I reckon you need a bit over 1m for each side so I bought 4M so I can keep some for down the line when it becomes unobtanium.
Easier to take the runners off the door to fit it, just 3 countersunk allen bolts on each runner, so easy enough. Good clean out of the channels and a bit of soapy water to help the new rubbers drop in. A bit of patience needed to nail the technique of getting them in straight but once on the bench it was less than 2 mins per runner pushing them gently in the middle with a fat flat blade screwdriver then a bit of gentle teasing to get them just right.
Tip of the day... start with the windows in the "lowered for door opening position" and mark the glass with a bit of tipex to get it back in level and at just the right height. Saves some trouble later!
Also a good opportunity to clean all the s
t off the glass that doesn't come out of the door usually. Pay attention to the edges to remove all the manky rubber which has been rubbed in from the old runners, and don't wipe off your tipex marks while doing it like I did.I also cleaned all the old grease out of the exposed bits of the lift mechanism with aerosol brake cleaner and squirted some fresh stuff in.
fatjon said:
Racetech
Original Equipment - Part No. TVR U0399 Door Glass Rubber Felt TVR
Sold by the metre I reckon you need a bit over 1m for each side so I bought 4M so I can keep some for down the line when it becomes unobtanium.
Easier to take the runners off the door to fit it, just 3 countersunk allen bolts on each runner, so easy enough. Good clean out of the channels and a bit of soapy water to help the new rubbers drop in. A bit of patience needed to nail the technique of getting them in straight but once on the bench it was less than 2 mins per runner pushing them gently in the middle with a fat flat blade screwdriver then a bit of gentle teasing to get them just right.
Tip of the day... start with the windows in the "lowered for door opening position" and mark the glass with a bit of tipex to get it back in level and at just the right height. Saves some trouble later!
Also a good opportunity to clean all the st off the glass that doesn't come out of the door usually. Pay attention to the edges to remove all the manky rubber which has been rubbed in from the old runners, and don't wipe off your tipex marks while doing it like I did.
I also cleaned all the old grease out of the exposed bits of the lift mechanism with aerosol brake cleaner and squirted some fresh stuff in.
This is very helpful fatjon.Original Equipment - Part No. TVR U0399 Door Glass Rubber Felt TVR
Sold by the metre I reckon you need a bit over 1m for each side so I bought 4M so I can keep some for down the line when it becomes unobtanium.
Easier to take the runners off the door to fit it, just 3 countersunk allen bolts on each runner, so easy enough. Good clean out of the channels and a bit of soapy water to help the new rubbers drop in. A bit of patience needed to nail the technique of getting them in straight but once on the bench it was less than 2 mins per runner pushing them gently in the middle with a fat flat blade screwdriver then a bit of gentle teasing to get them just right.
Tip of the day... start with the windows in the "lowered for door opening position" and mark the glass with a bit of tipex to get it back in level and at just the right height. Saves some trouble later!
Also a good opportunity to clean all the s
t off the glass that doesn't come out of the door usually. Pay attention to the edges to remove all the manky rubber which has been rubbed in from the old runners, and don't wipe off your tipex marks while doing it like I did.I also cleaned all the old grease out of the exposed bits of the lift mechanism with aerosol brake cleaner and squirted some fresh stuff in.
Can you explain how the glass actually comes out? Do you remove the metal runner on the latch side first and then just lift the glass out?
Thank you!
Imran999 said:
This is very helpful fatjon.
Can you explain how the glass actually comes out? Do you remove the metal runner on the latch side first and then just lift the glass out?
Thank you!
Remove door card then loosen the Allen bolts in the brackets holding the glass at the bottom, glass then lifts out. Draw around the brackets with a sharpie first to aid refitting the window in the same position.Can you explain how the glass actually comes out? Do you remove the metal runner on the latch side first and then just lift the glass out?
Thank you!
No need to remove metal runners to take the glass out.
Edited by FarmyardPants on Tuesday 31st August 21:51
fatjon said:
As you run your finger down the slit that the door glass emerges from there you will feel something hairy which the guy who painted my car didn't mask up very well. As a result it's now a matted solid clump. I'm guessing it's car specific due to the length of the doors. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?
Also the top window seal that the glass pushes into when it closes is a bit tatty so same question.
And The big lump of rubber at the top front inside corner of each door. I wouldn't even know how to describe that to Mr Google to find them.
There are a few of these sort of questions coming as the car has been in dry storage for some years and now it's coming back out for a good fettling ready for next year. In 2015/16 the late and great Richard Thorpe did a full body off chassis and suspension refurb, the Joolz did a big brakes upgrade and a lot of other fettling, after which it barely did 500 miles before being laid up. It sounds daft but after 3 clutches and a diff in 500 miles the steering ribbon packed in and I just lost my rag with it, stuck it in a carcoon.
5 Years later after regaining my composure I'm ready to tackle it again so I'm getting all the other bits done to make it "perfect", or at least as good as they ever are until the next thing packs up What finally convinced me to get back in the saddle was finding that after 5 years the clutch master cylinder was still full and the clutch worked. For the entire time I have owned the car (from 2007) I have never had a clutch that worked for more than a month before either the master or slave peed all the fluid out or the plates fell apart.
That made me laugh. Not daft at all. You’re not a true cerb owner until you’ve felt the urge to bury an axe in its roof Also the top window seal that the glass pushes into when it closes is a bit tatty so same question.
And The big lump of rubber at the top front inside corner of each door. I wouldn't even know how to describe that to Mr Google to find them.
There are a few of these sort of questions coming as the car has been in dry storage for some years and now it's coming back out for a good fettling ready for next year. In 2015/16 the late and great Richard Thorpe did a full body off chassis and suspension refurb, the Joolz did a big brakes upgrade and a lot of other fettling, after which it barely did 500 miles before being laid up. It sounds daft but after 3 clutches and a diff in 500 miles the steering ribbon packed in and I just lost my rag with it, stuck it in a carcoon.
5 Years later after regaining my composure I'm ready to tackle it again so I'm getting all the other bits done to make it "perfect", or at least as good as they ever are until the next thing packs up
What finally convinced me to get back in the saddle was finding that after 5 years the clutch master cylinder was still full and the clutch worked. For the entire time I have owned the car (from 2007) I have never had a clutch that worked for more than a month before either the master or slave peed all the fluid out or the plates fell apart.FarmyardPants said:
Imran999 said:
This is very helpful fatjon.
Can you explain how the glass actually comes out? Do you remove the metal runner on the latch side first and then just lift the glass out?
Thank you!
Remove door card then loosen the Allen bolts in the brackets holding the glass at the bottom, glass then lifts out. Draw around the brackets with a sharpie first to aid refitting the window in the same position.Can you explain how the glass actually comes out? Do you remove the metal runner on the latch side first and then just lift the glass out?
Thank you!
No need to remove metal runners to take the glass out.
Edited by FarmyardPants on Tuesday 31st August 21:51
The Cerb community really is brill.
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