DSG Stall - No codes
Discussion
Hi,
A bit stumped as to what's causing this. Had happened 4 times in last two weeks (1800 miles of driving). Always local town driving, always when car is warm. I think 3 out of 4 times the CEL was on due to a Cat/Emissions code. When the CEL is on, car runs on less power (feels like 170bhp ish).
The worrying bit is, when at low speeds - say mounting a kerb or going over a speed bump it cuts out. No lights apart from the battery light. No codes on a scanner either. Car just flat out dies. I noticed it happening again last night and I put my foot down on the gas. It only delayed the cutting off by a second or so.
Rebuilt engine, new cylinder head, oil pump, cams, chain and tensioner and pistons. All new DV, PCV, Coils/sparks and battery. Changed the fuel filter a couple of days ago aswell.
Did get the battery checked - it's fine. Alternator is a volt lower than it should be (charges at 13ish V).
Truly stummped and don't know where to start looking as no fault codes. Anyone experience anything similar?
A bit stumped as to what's causing this. Had happened 4 times in last two weeks (1800 miles of driving). Always local town driving, always when car is warm. I think 3 out of 4 times the CEL was on due to a Cat/Emissions code. When the CEL is on, car runs on less power (feels like 170bhp ish).
The worrying bit is, when at low speeds - say mounting a kerb or going over a speed bump it cuts out. No lights apart from the battery light. No codes on a scanner either. Car just flat out dies. I noticed it happening again last night and I put my foot down on the gas. It only delayed the cutting off by a second or so.
Rebuilt engine, new cylinder head, oil pump, cams, chain and tensioner and pistons. All new DV, PCV, Coils/sparks and battery. Changed the fuel filter a couple of days ago aswell.
Did get the battery checked - it's fine. Alternator is a volt lower than it should be (charges at 13ish V).
Truly stummped and don't know where to start looking as no fault codes. Anyone experience anything similar?
Mk6 GTi. I don't drive it in S locally. However having said that, it does seem to be at the lower end of D2 rev when it stalls out.
First time it did it in was accelerating away from lights at normal pace. All the others have been when slowing down, speed bumps or mounting a kerb to park up etc.
Having the alternator changed today and will see if that puts a stop to the matter.
The cel light is a P0420 code. Cat below threshold or something similar. It comes and goes. I put a spacer on for the rear O2 sensor but didn't stop it coming back on. The CEL is currently off (turned itself off) and car is making full power.
Car has had the precat delete by previous owner and I suspect a remap of some sorts.
First time it did it in was accelerating away from lights at normal pace. All the others have been when slowing down, speed bumps or mounting a kerb to park up etc.
Having the alternator changed today and will see if that puts a stop to the matter.
The cel light is a P0420 code. Cat below threshold or something similar. It comes and goes. I put a spacer on for the rear O2 sensor but didn't stop it coming back on. The CEL is currently off (turned itself off) and car is making full power.
Car has had the precat delete by previous owner and I suspect a remap of some sorts.
Just an update if anyone else goes through this. Finally got to the bottom of the problem.
So initially there were no codes. Just stalls etc and low revs (1400-2000rpm). Sometimes a misfire or a jerk at the same rev range.
As the problem progressed, an EPC light with engine fault workshop! Message would pop up at the same time as the jerk/misfire and would go just as quick as it came. (Literally only would stay on dashboard 1second max)
Had the battery and alternator checked - battery fine but alternator a little low. Replaced the alternator but no joy. Still same problem.
Took a basic scanner out with me and next time it stalled I left the car like that without turning the key off. Plugged it in and got p0341 camshaft position sensor. Atleast now I know what area the problem was coming from.
Replaced the cam sensor, and the wiring was looking fragile at the connector. So decided to replace the sensor, connector and wiring. Thinking this should now fix the issue, I wasn't a happy bunny when it wasn't!
Even worse now, the car was giving me starting problems. 3second ish cranks and had to give it some gas. My logic being the ECU needs both cam position and crank position to work out fuel ratios etc, I changed the crank position sensor (also called crank angle sensor or engine speed sensor). Still no joy.
Was seriously getting peed off with this now. Was constantly stalling on me and giving me starting issues. The engine was in warranty but the engine builder is 250 miles away. Thought I'd do what I can here to sort it if it's small figures.
Decided to get the ECU reflashed back to stock (in case previous owner had a dodgy remap messing about with the timing). That worked - but only for 2 hours. So I booked it in for a warranty.
The car drove fine above 2500 rev (so motorway journeys were fine) but just down on power.
The culprit was the cam adjuster magnet. The metal UFO disc has been revised by a plastic one. I knew that and gave the builder a brand new when he build the engine. It wouldn't work properly at that time so he put a decent 2nd hand one on.
Anyways, the new magnet adjuster also has a new connector and you have to change the housing where the cam bridge etc sits. So new magnet, new connecter and new housing sorted the issue.
One obvious symptom I had was hold the car at 2k revs and it used to sound like a bag of spanners. So just thought id let you all know in case in the future any of you have the same issue.
So initially there were no codes. Just stalls etc and low revs (1400-2000rpm). Sometimes a misfire or a jerk at the same rev range.
As the problem progressed, an EPC light with engine fault workshop! Message would pop up at the same time as the jerk/misfire and would go just as quick as it came. (Literally only would stay on dashboard 1second max)
Had the battery and alternator checked - battery fine but alternator a little low. Replaced the alternator but no joy. Still same problem.
Took a basic scanner out with me and next time it stalled I left the car like that without turning the key off. Plugged it in and got p0341 camshaft position sensor. Atleast now I know what area the problem was coming from.
Replaced the cam sensor, and the wiring was looking fragile at the connector. So decided to replace the sensor, connector and wiring. Thinking this should now fix the issue, I wasn't a happy bunny when it wasn't!
Even worse now, the car was giving me starting problems. 3second ish cranks and had to give it some gas. My logic being the ECU needs both cam position and crank position to work out fuel ratios etc, I changed the crank position sensor (also called crank angle sensor or engine speed sensor). Still no joy.
Was seriously getting peed off with this now. Was constantly stalling on me and giving me starting issues. The engine was in warranty but the engine builder is 250 miles away. Thought I'd do what I can here to sort it if it's small figures.
Decided to get the ECU reflashed back to stock (in case previous owner had a dodgy remap messing about with the timing). That worked - but only for 2 hours. So I booked it in for a warranty.
The car drove fine above 2500 rev (so motorway journeys were fine) but just down on power.
The culprit was the cam adjuster magnet. The metal UFO disc has been revised by a plastic one. I knew that and gave the builder a brand new when he build the engine. It wouldn't work properly at that time so he put a decent 2nd hand one on.
Anyways, the new magnet adjuster also has a new connector and you have to change the housing where the cam bridge etc sits. So new magnet, new connecter and new housing sorted the issue.
One obvious symptom I had was hold the car at 2k revs and it used to sound like a bag of spanners. So just thought id let you all know in case in the future any of you have the same issue.
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