Turbocharger! Help!
Discussion
Some help needed from anyone well versed in turbochargers.
I've just had a K04 remanufactured for a Volvo C70 T5 (2006 so same as Ford ST225)
Mounted it to the head but the oil drain pipe doesn't sync up to the new CHRA. Can I undo and twist the CHRA around? It may seem like a stupid question but everything else seems to match up and I'm concerned the actuator would also twist with moving it down to fit the drain. In my head it makes sense to twist it around but I also feel like it's not. Otherwise I have to get the drain pipe cut and precision made. Not sure I'd trust that either as it's only sat in the sump with a rubber seal and the weight of the charger holding it there.
I'm confused as it's like for like, same part numbers the lot.
Pic attached to show. Last one shows actuator from top of the engine bay down.
I've just had a K04 remanufactured for a Volvo C70 T5 (2006 so same as Ford ST225)
Mounted it to the head but the oil drain pipe doesn't sync up to the new CHRA. Can I undo and twist the CHRA around? It may seem like a stupid question but everything else seems to match up and I'm concerned the actuator would also twist with moving it down to fit the drain. In my head it makes sense to twist it around but I also feel like it's not. Otherwise I have to get the drain pipe cut and precision made. Not sure I'd trust that either as it's only sat in the sump with a rubber seal and the weight of the charger holding it there.
I'm confused as it's like for like, same part numbers the lot.
Pic attached to show. Last one shows actuator from top of the engine bay down.
A day of pondering and looking at it, YouTube and various other resources I've managed to work out a degree to twist it around. Which is annoying but I can see that it shouldn't be a problem in disassembly as it's "new".
But, it comes back to the actuator, it's not ideal but managed to get a spare bracket that I'm going cut at the 90 degree where it holds the main end and move and weld back on but further down to maintain its setting. No matter how I look at it, unless the main vacuum part moves or spins 360 degrees then it's going to cause an issue. So it's trial an error.
It's a real head scratcher. Like for like, which is why I sent my exchange unit off, happy with what's been done. This new one also matches pictures where everything lines up, all part numbers too.
I can appreciate no one's responded but time is of the essence and the only cheap way out of this.
I'll update as I go but feel free to chime in if you have any thoughts or experience.
But, it comes back to the actuator, it's not ideal but managed to get a spare bracket that I'm going cut at the 90 degree where it holds the main end and move and weld back on but further down to maintain its setting. No matter how I look at it, unless the main vacuum part moves or spins 360 degrees then it's going to cause an issue. So it's trial an error.
It's a real head scratcher. Like for like, which is why I sent my exchange unit off, happy with what's been done. This new one also matches pictures where everything lines up, all part numbers too.
I can appreciate no one's responded but time is of the essence and the only cheap way out of this.
I'll update as I go but feel free to chime in if you have any thoughts or experience.
donkmeister said:
Possibly no help but just in case; I know the process of what you are doing is called "clocking" the turbocharger - maybe that will help you find the right info on how to move things around sufficiently?
Everyday's a school day, never heard the term.The few turbos I've replaced no problem but looking at the pics that's not been assembled correctly or it's for a different model ? The bearing housing is misaligned and it's very important as it's a gravity drain to the sump, set at an angle oil will collect at the base of the bearing housing before enough has pooled to run down the drain. I had to search clocking, it makes sense.
Ah yes, the term clocking had come up on one article and it's not something I've ever heard of.
I've got the thing back out and this is my first turbo install and play about. I hadn't realised the importance of the drain pipe and the fact it's gravity based so I'm a little more cautious now.
I'd assume that they've simply just got the CHRA upwards too much. Further inspection I can see that my initial concern can be dismissed as of course the CHRA will move independent of the turbo housing and manifold.
I need a jig to mount it and work from my markings and hope that it will spin freely.
Thanks for the input its made me consider the clocking issue far more and perhaps, cautious, but confident that I'm doing the right thing.
I'll update again as I go.
I've got the thing back out and this is my first turbo install and play about. I hadn't realised the importance of the drain pipe and the fact it's gravity based so I'm a little more cautious now.
I'd assume that they've simply just got the CHRA upwards too much. Further inspection I can see that my initial concern can be dismissed as of course the CHRA will move independent of the turbo housing and manifold.
I need a jig to mount it and work from my markings and hope that it will spin freely.
Thanks for the input its made me consider the clocking issue far more and perhaps, cautious, but confident that I'm doing the right thing.
I'll update again as I go.
You're probably aware, something I've never seen before sited on a turbo is what appears to be a coolant bleed screw ? top left of thumbsnap logo.
If my suspicions are correct it must be a high spot and unlikely to clear an air lock without opening, they wouldn't go to the trouble of including it otherwise. Just a thought if you'd not noticed.
Can't offer any experience with "clocking" as I mentioned
If my suspicions are correct it must be a high spot and unlikely to clear an air lock without opening, they wouldn't go to the trouble of including it otherwise. Just a thought if you'd not noticed.
Can't offer any experience with "clocking" as I mentioned
As mentioned above, you need to rotate the bearing housing. To do this, slacken the nut on the V-band, and the bolts holding on the compressor housing. Don't undo them too much, otherwise the turbo will fall apart. This will allow the bearing housing to rotate while the turbine housing and compressor housing remain in position.
The easiest way will be to remove your coolant lines and move them out of the way, then slacken the V-band and bolts as mentioned above. Attach the drain to the bearing housing so you know you have the position correct, then tighten up the nut/bolts.
The brass fitting is not a coolant bleed. It appears to be on the compressor inlet. I would hazard a guess that it connects to the boost solenoid (if the car has one) and recirculates the lost air.
The easiest way will be to remove your coolant lines and move them out of the way, then slacken the V-band and bolts as mentioned above. Attach the drain to the bearing housing so you know you have the position correct, then tighten up the nut/bolts.
The brass fitting is not a coolant bleed. It appears to be on the compressor inlet. I would hazard a guess that it connects to the boost solenoid (if the car has one) and recirculates the lost air.
Thank you all for the help, it's been a great and frustrated task.
I was able to pull the turbo out and loosen it all off, replace and then tighten as the manifold went on. Took two attempts but got there in the end.
I actually moved the band around to the other side so I could work on it under the car. I had to also remove the oil drain pipe twice to get it somewhat sitting pretty, I think there may be an unwanted bend in it but I'll monitor from here and if it needs replacing it's easy enough to do now.
It's not a job I want to repeat any time soon but after some patience and bruises and your responses it gave me the boost to get it sorted.
Thank you all for the input.
I also had a great time with the oil drain seal... I tried a dry fit several times on a spare block and it went well. Then it went too well on the engine in the car. See the pic... A daunting faff with a small hook and endoscope managed to save the day.
For anyone wanting to do this in future... Just drop the engine. I know I will if I ever have to again.
I was able to pull the turbo out and loosen it all off, replace and then tighten as the manifold went on. Took two attempts but got there in the end.
I actually moved the band around to the other side so I could work on it under the car. I had to also remove the oil drain pipe twice to get it somewhat sitting pretty, I think there may be an unwanted bend in it but I'll monitor from here and if it needs replacing it's easy enough to do now.
It's not a job I want to repeat any time soon but after some patience and bruises and your responses it gave me the boost to get it sorted.
Thank you all for the input.
I also had a great time with the oil drain seal... I tried a dry fit several times on a spare block and it went well. Then it went too well on the engine in the car. See the pic... A daunting faff with a small hook and endoscope managed to save the day.
For anyone wanting to do this in future... Just drop the engine. I know I will if I ever have to again.
GrecoDelToro said:
Thank you all for the help, it's been a great and frustrated task.
Thank you all for the input.
I also had a great time with the oil drain seal... I tried a dry fit several times on a spare block and it went well. Then it went too well on the engine in the car. See the pic... A daunting faff with a small hook and endoscope managed to save the day.
For anyone wanting to do this in future... Just drop the engine. I know I will if I ever have to again.
It was testing your mettle to the end wasn't it, heart sinking moment. Thank you all for the input.
I also had a great time with the oil drain seal... I tried a dry fit several times on a spare block and it went well. Then it went too well on the engine in the car. See the pic... A daunting faff with a small hook and endoscope managed to save the day.
For anyone wanting to do this in future... Just drop the engine. I know I will if I ever have to again.
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