Discussion
You're looking for freeplay/ lash anywhere from the gearbox to the wheels, so it's a matter of finding where movement is lost when you turn the prop shaft back and forth by hand... it could be in the prop shaft UJs, the diff itself, its output flanges, the driveshafts or their CV joints, or the hubs.
There could be play in worn or loose diff mounts, or even loose CV joint bolts.
There could be play in worn or loose diff mounts, or even loose CV joint bolts.
If all the above checks seem okay, jack up one rear wheel, with the car in gear, you may well find that you can turn the wheel slightly back and forth and get a knock with no movement in the propshaft. Assuming this is a BTR diff, this is likely to be play in the spider gears and is a symptom of normal wear to the cone lsd design. As the cones wear, the backlash in the spider gears increases and can produce a clonk on take up.
There are shims that can be increased, behind the cones, to take up the wear until the cones eventually bottom out.
The BTR diff is otherwise very strong and it is unlikely that any other parts are worn. It is therefore quite reasonable to strip and rebuild the diff, only replacing these shims and the oil seals. Crownwheel backlash is likely to be found to be bang on even with a fairly high mileage. The pinion height on these diffs is set up during manufacture and is affected by the individual casing and the tolerance marking on the pinion. It can be replaced, as was, without any adjustment. The backlash is then set by screwed side bearing carriers, so no shimming is required.
All the above makes it a relatively straightforward DIY job if that's what you are into. A Holden Commodore V6 manual, WITH BTR diff rebuild section, can be found online.
There are shims that can be increased, behind the cones, to take up the wear until the cones eventually bottom out.
The BTR diff is otherwise very strong and it is unlikely that any other parts are worn. It is therefore quite reasonable to strip and rebuild the diff, only replacing these shims and the oil seals. Crownwheel backlash is likely to be found to be bang on even with a fairly high mileage. The pinion height on these diffs is set up during manufacture and is affected by the individual casing and the tolerance marking on the pinion. It can be replaced, as was, without any adjustment. The backlash is then set by screwed side bearing carriers, so no shimming is required.
All the above makes it a relatively straightforward DIY job if that's what you are into. A Holden Commodore V6 manual, WITH BTR diff rebuild section, can be found online.
Edited by Dougal9887 on Thursday 9th September 09:48
Edited by Dougal9887 on Thursday 9th September 09:57
Edited by Dougal9887 on Thursday 9th September 13:12
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