Nissan Leaf and a newbie, can I run on away charger alone
Discussion
OK, potentially moving house in the next 6 months so I don't want to go through the expense of install, sell, re-install.
I like the idea of the Leaf and at the moment they aren't that tardy on leasing costs.
Can I:
- Run for 6months on high Street etc charging alone
- I read the range can be seriously reduced in cold weather? I.e. Down from 169miles to 100miles? Is that frost, ice reduced or say 5degrees (I.e. more a typical winter here)
And..
- I need to be able to commute, is it easy enough to plan to and not be constantly running round looking for street chargers in practice?
I like the idea of the Leaf and at the moment they aren't that tardy on leasing costs.
Can I:
- Run for 6months on high Street etc charging alone
- I read the range can be seriously reduced in cold weather? I.e. Down from 169miles to 100miles? Is that frost, ice reduced or say 5degrees (I.e. more a typical winter here)
And..
- I need to be able to commute, is it easy enough to plan to and not be constantly running round looking for street chargers in practice?
You could run it on public charging, but I wouldn’t. There’s been a massive uptake in EV ownership in the last year, chargers are super busy, getting abused and many are broken.
If you can run a extension lead from a outside socket or even through a kitchen window for 6 months it’ll make your life considerably easier.
As for range expect a 30% ish drop in the worst of winter compared to the best summer months.
Realistic driving normally range for each leaf model:
Early 24: 50 miles
Later 24: 60 miles
30: 80 miles
40: 120 miles
62: 190 miles.
If you can run a extension lead from a outside socket or even through a kitchen window for 6 months it’ll make your life considerably easier.
As for range expect a 30% ish drop in the worst of winter compared to the best summer months.
Realistic driving normally range for each leaf model:
Early 24: 50 miles
Later 24: 60 miles
30: 80 miles
40: 120 miles
62: 190 miles.
You shouldn’t need to upgrade your box if you’re just running a 13amp extension.
As long as you have a good 13a extension and you aren’t running high power appliances at the same time off the same ring you should be fine.
I did similar for almost a year, many leaf owners just charge off the 3 pin socket all the time.
As long as you have a good 13a extension and you aren’t running high power appliances at the same time off the same ring you should be fine.
I did similar for almost a year, many leaf owners just charge off the 3 pin socket all the time.
If you have an outside socket you can plug the car into, you can top up 100-120 miles overnight quite easily. A new Leaf will come with a mains charger.
Would caution against extension leads as
a) hassle, especially if going outside > inside
b) plug in charger has a temperature sensor which cuts off power if it all starts to go wrong (faulty socket, for example). If you use an extension lead, this protection is lost.
However Toughleads do sell a range of various sizes and with connectors to allow passing through letterboxes, etc.
Would caution against extension leads as
a) hassle, especially if going outside > inside
b) plug in charger has a temperature sensor which cuts off power if it all starts to go wrong (faulty socket, for example). If you use an extension lead, this protection is lost.
However Toughleads do sell a range of various sizes and with connectors to allow passing through letterboxes, etc.
GordonL said:
My son ran a Leaf for 3 years without any charging at home. Didn’t have any problems. He lived in central Aberdeen at the time, no drive and couldn’t run a cable out to the car.
I’ve run an i3 for nearly 5 years and haven’t noticed a dramatic drop in range during winters either.
I suppose it depends on what your local charging situation is like.I’ve run an i3 for nearly 5 years and haven’t noticed a dramatic drop in range during winters either.
Currently in my council area 2 of the 4 rapids have been broken for 6 months. The remaining 2 are running at 3/4 speed and normally have a queue to use them.
Similar story with the fast posts. Tried to contact the council about it, don’t even get a reply.
Some council areas such as Dundee are really proactive with their EV infrastructure, some are terrible.
Worth doing some research on your local area, check out zap map, PlugShare etc
Phunk said:
You shouldn’t need to upgrade your box if you’re just running a 13amp extension.
As long as you have a good 13a extension and you aren’t running high power appliances at the same time off the same ring you should be fine.
I did similar for almost a year, many leaf owners just charge off the 3 pin socket all the time.
Agreed. I charged my 2011 Leaf from a properly wired 13A socket for the first 2 years. I did the same with my Tesla while in a rental for 12 months. I think EVs actually limit UK 3 pin to 10A for safety. Be careful of poor connections which could get hot with the continuous current draw (through resistance) and if using an extension cord make sure it is well rated and fully unwound.As long as you have a good 13a extension and you aren’t running high power appliances at the same time off the same ring you should be fine.
I did similar for almost a year, many leaf owners just charge off the 3 pin socket all the time.
Options in order of both cheapness and robustness
1) std extension lead out the window
2) "hardwired" custom extension lead from std internal 13A socket to outside plug (IP rated outside 13A socket screwed to wall.
3) "hardwired spur from fuse box (may as well get this rated at 32A and put in "caravan socket" outside and plug charger into that to allow 7kW charge rates)
4) proper EV charger install
1) & 2) you can tecnically do youself because they all count as an "extension lead" because they just plug into an existing socket. However, as mentioned, std 13A sockets are really only rated at around 10A continuous because the quality of the wiring or components makes a big difference ie a new clean, tight socket on a short ring main or spur can probably easily supply 20 amps in reality (obvs fused at just 13), but a 20 year old, dirty, loose contact socket out on the end of 25m of old cable might catch on fire at just 10 continuous.
Most normal high current loads are far from continuous, ie toasters, kettles, power showers etc, whereas you car can spend 8 to 10 hours pulling 13A, that's a big difference from an overheating perspective
1) std extension lead out the window
2) "hardwired" custom extension lead from std internal 13A socket to outside plug (IP rated outside 13A socket screwed to wall.
3) "hardwired spur from fuse box (may as well get this rated at 32A and put in "caravan socket" outside and plug charger into that to allow 7kW charge rates)
4) proper EV charger install
1) & 2) you can tecnically do youself because they all count as an "extension lead" because they just plug into an existing socket. However, as mentioned, std 13A sockets are really only rated at around 10A continuous because the quality of the wiring or components makes a big difference ie a new clean, tight socket on a short ring main or spur can probably easily supply 20 amps in reality (obvs fused at just 13), but a 20 year old, dirty, loose contact socket out on the end of 25m of old cable might catch on fire at just 10 continuous.
Most normal high current loads are far from continuous, ie toasters, kettles, power showers etc, whereas you car can spend 8 to 10 hours pulling 13A, that's a big difference from an overheating perspective
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