Discussion
My 4.5 has got about 14k mikes on it but my oil pressure never goes above or below 40 psi. I would’ve thought it should be 70 psi being low mileage and maybe 50 @ tickover.
I’ve noticed on cold start up the gauge goes immediately to 20 psi then a second or two later kind of ticks up to 40 psi, it’s quite mechanical, like a clock, not a sweep like I’d have expected.
It never drops pressure and the light has never come on. I will be ordering a new spring for the relief valve for peace of mind though.
Could this be a gauge problem rather than actual oil pressure?
I’ve noticed on cold start up the gauge goes immediately to 20 psi then a second or two later kind of ticks up to 40 psi, it’s quite mechanical, like a clock, not a sweep like I’d have expected.
It never drops pressure and the light has never come on. I will be ordering a new spring for the relief valve for peace of mind though.
Could this be a gauge problem rather than actual oil pressure?
Hello OP, I guess the obvious questions are:
How long have you owned the car, how long has this been the case with the pressure?
When was the spring last changed?
Do you definitely have the oil topped up? They can use a lot of oil.
Does the car groan when cornering (low pressure trait).
Hope it's nothing serious.
How long have you owned the car, how long has this been the case with the pressure?
When was the spring last changed?
Do you definitely have the oil topped up? They can use a lot of oil.
Does the car groan when cornering (low pressure trait).
Hope it's nothing serious.
I’ve not had the car long, I’ve probably done 3-400 miles so far. I definitely won’t be doing any more till I check the spring!!
I left the dipstick out before checking and the oil is fine.
I don’t know if the spring was changed but I’m going to guess it wasn’t. I haven’t got the service history with me atm to check parts lists.
It does the same thing every start up, it’s like to movements to get to 40 psi.
I don’t understand the groaning mentioned,could you expand more?
I left the dipstick out before checking and the oil is fine.
I don’t know if the spring was changed but I’m going to guess it wasn’t. I haven’t got the service history with me atm to check parts lists.
It does the same thing every start up, it’s like to movements to get to 40 psi.
I don’t understand the groaning mentioned,could you expand more?
Peter-j8c3u said:
How do you quote different answers for different posters?
First icon in the top right that looks like a speech bubble 
The groaning comes from the oil hose when pressure is low, you can hear it clearly so if it was you'd know. Definitely worth doing the spring as the first step, and make sure you check and remove all of the spring (if broken).
Did you buy privately or from a trader?
I searched this forum and came across the photos of the damage that broken spring caused. I take it all I can do is remove the spring that’s in there and check for any broken bits?
Can the spring be changed without draining the oil?
I’ll check the oil again, it might have been slightly below the full mark. I was worried it had been overfilled before I found out about leaving the dipstick out.
Can the spring be changed without draining the oil?
I’ll check the oil again, it might have been slightly below the full mark. I was worried it had been overfilled before I found out about leaving the dipstick out.
DuncanM said:
First icon in the top right that looks like a speech bubble
The groaning comes from the oil hose when pressure is low, you can hear it clearly so if it was you'd know. Definitely worth doing the spring as the first step, and make sure you check and remove all of the spring (if broken).
Did you buy privately or from a trader?
The one that says ‘quote’ ?The groaning comes from the oil hose when pressure is low, you can hear it clearly so if it was you'd know. Definitely worth doing the spring as the first step, and make sure you check and remove all of the spring (if broken).
Did you buy privately or from a trader?
Do I have to drain the oil 1st?
Privately but the guy looked after it, he had the valve shims done and a service at a well known tvr specialist, I forget the name atm.
Peter-j8c3u said:
The one that says ‘quote’ ?
Do I have to drain the oil 1st?
Privately but the guy looked after it, he had the valve shims done and a service at a well known tvr specialist, I forget the name atm.
There will be a little bit of oil but no need to drain it.Do I have to drain the oil 1st?
Privately but the guy looked after it, he had the valve shims done and a service at a well known tvr specialist, I forget the name atm.
Will be worth looking through the history and at least having a chat with the specialist mentioned
Looks like I can get to it by removing the wheel,is that right?
It really does seem like the gauge is stiff though, I’ve been keeping my eye on the oil & water as much as the speedo & rpm gauges...obvs
As I said previously, there is no movement when it’s warm and sitting at idle.
It had a speedometer change early in its life, I wonder if it was dodgy gauges or conditions the car was kept in early on.
It really does seem like the gauge is stiff though, I’ve been keeping my eye on the oil & water as much as the speedo & rpm gauges...obvs
As I said previously, there is no movement when it’s warm and sitting at idle.
It had a speedometer change early in its life, I wonder if it was dodgy gauges or conditions the car was kept in early on.
When I fitted my oil temp gauge I fitted a sandwich plate on the oil filter so that I could also fit a test point.
I have a digital oil and water guage, about 7 years ago the loom melted on the guage and was very erratic. However since I had fitted the test point I was able to test the pressure, replaced the loom and lal was good again. You could plump in a test point straight into the engine where the original hose goes but you'd have to remove the coil packs etc to get to it.
I have a digital oil and water guage, about 7 years ago the loom melted on the guage and was very erratic. However since I had fitted the test point I was able to test the pressure, replaced the loom and lal was good again. You could plump in a test point straight into the engine where the original hose goes but you'd have to remove the coil packs etc to get to it.
I’m all good now, I fitted a new spring in the oil pressure relief valve and I’m getting 70psi cold start, I had to warm the engine up to open the thermostat to bleed the coolant, it goes up to 75 if I rev it a bit. I’ll report back when I’ve been out for a run and warmed the oil up properly for the hot figures.
The new spring was about 1/16 longer so must’ve weakened over time.
The new spring was about 1/16 longer so must’ve weakened over time.
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