possible immobiliser or battery issue - advice please
Discussion
Hi guys
Came to start the Chim a few days back and nothing. No fuel pump, no cranking just nothing. Key fob will still arm/disarm the alarm etc. but thats it.
Key dongle does nothing, tell tale red light by the ignition key flashes, even after trying the dongle. I am thinking immobiliser problem.
Now i have a battery conditioner attached all the time the car is laid up in the garage. In the past if i open the car door the battery conditioner light goes from
green to red, shut the door and within seconds back to green.
I have not used the car for a few months and i noticed the conditioner was showing red all the time. All the other electrics seem to be fine.
I put a multimeter on the battery, after disconnecting the trickle charger and result was 11.9 volts. Is this ok ? or is the battery knackered and hence
problems with the immobiliser ?
Tried to remove the battery box today but one of the nuts is just spinning so it will have to wait until next weekend so i can raise the car and cut the bolt off
to free the battery box, and ultimately the battery.
Came to start the Chim a few days back and nothing. No fuel pump, no cranking just nothing. Key fob will still arm/disarm the alarm etc. but thats it.
Key dongle does nothing, tell tale red light by the ignition key flashes, even after trying the dongle. I am thinking immobiliser problem.
Now i have a battery conditioner attached all the time the car is laid up in the garage. In the past if i open the car door the battery conditioner light goes from
green to red, shut the door and within seconds back to green.
I have not used the car for a few months and i noticed the conditioner was showing red all the time. All the other electrics seem to be fine.
I put a multimeter on the battery, after disconnecting the trickle charger and result was 11.9 volts. Is this ok ? or is the battery knackered and hence
problems with the immobiliser ?
Tried to remove the battery box today but one of the nuts is just spinning so it will have to wait until next weekend so i can raise the car and cut the bolt off
to free the battery box, and ultimately the battery.
TJC46 said:
Hi guys
In the past if i open the car door the battery conditioner light goes from
green to red, shut the door and within seconds back to green.
That sounds like the battery is not holding charge, the immobiliser will still appear to function because the battery conditioner is connected. Can you borrow a battery 'drop' tester from a local garage or motor factor? That would allow you to prove the battery condition. Alternatively, get your hands on a spare battery and sit it in the footwell and fit jumpers, that will show you if the battery is good or bad. Cheap trickle chargers can destroy batteries if they are left connected for long periodsIn the past if i open the car door the battery conditioner light goes from
green to red, shut the door and within seconds back to green.
11.9v? Your battery is goosed.
I bet your car would start with a jump start. I had exactly the same symptoms the other day (only had the car a week or so) needed to jump it. Drove it 15 miles, switched off and ten minutes later, same problem. Put it on a a charger for ten more minutes and it started. Straight to Halfords for a new 072 Yuasa battery. No problem since.
I bet your car would start with a jump start. I had exactly the same symptoms the other day (only had the car a week or so) needed to jump it. Drove it 15 miles, switched off and ten minutes later, same problem. Put it on a a charger for ten more minutes and it started. Straight to Halfords for a new 072 Yuasa battery. No problem since.
These kind of problems are the battery needing replacement in a startlingly high number of cases. Above advice is good.
My local autospares independent will test any battery for condition before selling me another one.
In the past the tale has usually been "goosed, time for a new one". Last time it was "you've still got 90% of the CCA, so your problem is something else".
It turned out to be poor earths between fuel rail and ECU - it was my 18 year old Saab, not my 22 year old TVR.
My local autospares independent will test any battery for condition before selling me another one.
In the past the tale has usually been "goosed, time for a new one". Last time it was "you've still got 90% of the CCA, so your problem is something else".
It turned out to be poor earths between fuel rail and ECU - it was my 18 year old Saab, not my 22 year old TVR.
Had some fun and games trying to remove the battery earlier on today. One bolt came out easy but the other was just spinning.
Managed eventually to remove it, so i have ordered a new battery and have re-glassed a holding nut back into the bottom of the battery box.
Advice for anyone else looking for a battery .
Places, like eurocarparts etc have what seems like suitable batteries, but the terminal posts are the wrong way around for our cars.
Most stock batteries held by eurocarparts and similar suppliers have the positive on the right side as you look at the front of the battery.
Obviously a Chimaera has the negative to the right as you look at the front of the battery.
I eventually ordered from this company https://www.tayna.co.uk/ as you can select which way round you require the terminals.
Managed eventually to remove it, so i have ordered a new battery and have re-glassed a holding nut back into the bottom of the battery box.
Advice for anyone else looking for a battery .
Places, like eurocarparts etc have what seems like suitable batteries, but the terminal posts are the wrong way around for our cars.
Most stock batteries held by eurocarparts and similar suppliers have the positive on the right side as you look at the front of the battery.
Obviously a Chimaera has the negative to the right as you look at the front of the battery.
I eventually ordered from this company https://www.tayna.co.uk/ as you can select which way round you require the terminals.
Every battery has a different part number that indicates which way round the terminals are, and the outer case size.
You need type 072 (260L x 173W x 206H, all mm). Type 069 has the same length and width but is slightly higher; this will also fit. Many online battery 'help' menus (including the Tayna one) indicate type 075 which is incorrect.
You can fit slightly larger ones if they will fit in the battery box, many owners do. This has been covered several times on PH; some users also have sufficient length in the battery cable to use a battery such as the 075 with the terminals the 'wrong' way round anyway.
You need type 072 (260L x 173W x 206H, all mm). Type 069 has the same length and width but is slightly higher; this will also fit. Many online battery 'help' menus (including the Tayna one) indicate type 075 which is incorrect.
You can fit slightly larger ones if they will fit in the battery box, many owners do. This has been covered several times on PH; some users also have sufficient length in the battery cable to use a battery such as the 075 with the terminals the 'wrong' way round anyway.
Eh?? No, a 072 is correct. If you buy a type 073, the positive terminal will be on the right as you look at it:
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/073/
Unless you have VERY long leads, this would mean fitting it with the terminals on the forward, bulkhead side of the battery. All well and good.... Until you need to apply leads to it to either trickle charge it or jump start the car. I've done it several times to 3 x Chimaera so I would NOT advise fitting a type 073 battery.
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/073/
Unless you have VERY long leads, this would mean fitting it with the terminals on the forward, bulkhead side of the battery. All well and good.... Until you need to apply leads to it to either trickle charge it or jump start the car. I've done it several times to 3 x Chimaera so I would NOT advise fitting a type 073 battery.
Edited by sixor8 on Sunday 28th November 16:44
Went for this one in the end. Delivery early this week. Will be a tight fit in the battery box but should squeeze in. I can alter the box slightly if required.
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ea755/
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ea755/
Fitted the new battery today, and a very nice snug fit it is.Just a few mm all round to play with.
Everything working as it should now.
So no immobiliser problems,
Good reference topic for others .........don't instantly think its a immobiliser issue when you come to start the car.
I will admit, I initially thought it was an immobiliser problem.
All the electrics were working but after pressing the fob and turning the key i got nothing but silence.
No fuel pump prime, no starter,nothing. Multimeter across the battery and voltage of 11.9 volts so i thought maybe battery.
Some good advice given to me here on Pistonheads explaining at that voltage the battery is knackered.
Now very happy again.
Everything working as it should now.
So no immobiliser problems,
Good reference topic for others .........don't instantly think its a immobiliser issue when you come to start the car.
I will admit, I initially thought it was an immobiliser problem.
All the electrics were working but after pressing the fob and turning the key i got nothing but silence.
No fuel pump prime, no starter,nothing. Multimeter across the battery and voltage of 11.9 volts so i thought maybe battery.
Some good advice given to me here on Pistonheads explaining at that voltage the battery is knackered.
Now very happy again.
Great news- glad you updated. 
It isn't always just only the terminal voltage to consider.
I've started a car with a battery voltage below 12V. It depends on the charge state of the battery and if it is a dead cell or has an internal fault. A apparently 'goodish' battery that has such an internal fault, with a open circuit voltage above 12V, will drop hugely to 8V or below when enough current is demanded to turn the starter motor. The immobiliser / alarm will interpret this as the battery having been momentarily disconnected and will kick in.
You're right that many apparent immobiliser problems are down to defective batteries.
It isn't always just only the terminal voltage to consider.
I've started a car with a battery voltage below 12V. It depends on the charge state of the battery and if it is a dead cell or has an internal fault. A apparently 'goodish' battery that has such an internal fault, with a open circuit voltage above 12V, will drop hugely to 8V or below when enough current is demanded to turn the starter motor. The immobiliser / alarm will interpret this as the battery having been momentarily disconnected and will kick in.
You're right that many apparent immobiliser problems are down to defective batteries.
Edited by sixor8 on Monday 6th December 21:43
Bit late to this...
I suffered from fast batteries and battery issues for years, and seamed to need a new battery every 24 months... Changing the batter yis a real P.I.T.A (and fingers due to a. particularly nasty fibreglass splinter).
Eventually I had the alarm replaced by a Carl Baker (a TVR alarm specialist - http://www.tvruk.tv/contactus.html) and my car has been good as gold since then - starts every time. When Carl replaced the alarm he believed that most of the battery issues were caused by the aftermarket immobiliser which was installed just after I bought the car on the behest of the insurance company.
I suffered from fast batteries and battery issues for years, and seamed to need a new battery every 24 months... Changing the batter yis a real P.I.T.A (and fingers due to a. particularly nasty fibreglass splinter).
Eventually I had the alarm replaced by a Carl Baker (a TVR alarm specialist - http://www.tvruk.tv/contactus.html) and my car has been good as gold since then - starts every time. When Carl replaced the alarm he believed that most of the battery issues were caused by the aftermarket immobiliser which was installed just after I bought the car on the behest of the insurance company.
jesusbuiltmycar said:
Bit late to this...
I suffered from fast batteries and battery issues for years, and seamed to need a new battery every 24 months... Changing the batter yis a real P.I.T.A (and fingers due to a. particularly nasty fibreglass splinter).
Eventually I had the alarm replaced by a Carl Baker (a TVR alarm specialist - http://www.tvruk.tv/contactus.html) and my car has been good as gold since then - starts every time. When Carl replaced the alarm he believed that most of the battery issues were caused by the aftermarket immobiliser which was installed just after I bought the car on the behest of the insurance company.
Interesting. I suffered from fast batteries and battery issues for years, and seamed to need a new battery every 24 months... Changing the batter yis a real P.I.T.A (and fingers due to a. particularly nasty fibreglass splinter).
Eventually I had the alarm replaced by a Carl Baker (a TVR alarm specialist - http://www.tvruk.tv/contactus.html) and my car has been good as gold since then - starts every time. When Carl replaced the alarm he believed that most of the battery issues were caused by the aftermarket immobiliser which was installed just after I bought the car on the behest of the insurance company.
Most later Chims have the Meta alarm I believe which on the whole is pretty reliable once the duff relay is replaced or removed.
It’s still a battery drain though.
Sadly almost all alarms seem to draw and flatten batteries if cars are left idle for weeks or months on end. My friend owns a car forecourt with all modern cars on it. If a car is left over a month you can bet a penny it will have a flat battery. Most these batteries re charge and work so it’s drain on them and I presume it’s the alarms as it’s on all types of models and only happens if the car has not been ran for usually only a matter of weeks! It can’t be duff batteries all the time!
I’m pretty sure my battery has died through lack of use though I’ve charged it a couple of times just to keep it topped up but lack of use does for them. It’s not that old. When I used the car weekly the battery never died in about 6 years starting the car almost every day. Oh them were the days
Zener said:
Its not the alarm that discharges a modern vehicle battery but throttle actuators, EGR valves, various other modules/controllers etc etc being woken up by the network for resetting/self calibration etc , ever wondered why late cars/vans have such big capacity batteries fitted ?
This. Modern alarms use hardly any power compared to an old alarm. Namely the ancient Meta system in the TVRs.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff