Chassis concern

[oli_quick]

Morning all, took a look at my chassis over the weekend (only had her for 2 months so my eyes have been firmly fixed on the road). Was rather concerned about the build up of rust on some of the welds.

Is this a 'normal' thing (how much is normal), will a service (from TVR Power or some other reputable guys) check out the chassis for integrity, is there anything I can do about it...

Also finally - how do I change the battery on my key fob - does it just 'pop' open?

Thanks all

[gbbird]

Some rust on the chassis is quite normal, but as for how much before it is dangerous i don't quite know. Mine certainly has a bit.

As for the keyfob, a small screwdriver should assist in opening the casing but be careful not to break (mine has never quite been the same since), then you just need a new battery available from any jewellers.

[david smith]

have a look thru my profile at some of the threads I have done and replied .. check your chassis very carefully as the rot on the top tubes is common and mine had holes that i have just welded new sections of tube in to fix! ... my surface rust is also bad - I have just caught it in time - am going to smother in waxoyl every few months now in a state of being paranoid ...

hope you enjoy your car!!

regards DAS

[hotlogic]

Just cleaned up the front half of my chassis and repainted with frost chassis paint. Highly recommend Frost as Hammerite can chip as a result form stones. Also wouldn’t use Waxoyl on chassis as this stays wet and you won’t see any future cracks as they appear due to the Waxoyl being soft (some MOT station also don’t like it). I also shied away from Waxoyled chassis Cerbs when buying mine for this reason.

[2 sheds]

Generally where the powder coating has dropped there will be surface rust, which is ok, just srape & wire prush any loose stuff off, repaint with por15 or 2 pt epoxy coating, when that is cured cover with protective wax (waxoil is one brand but there are better commercial products).
The problem is the parts of the chassis you can't see, recommend you get the car on a ramp and spend a few hours doing this job, preparation is more important than just repainting.
the worst corrosion will occur where there is trapped moisture, especially where the original powder coating has lifted (blistered), these areas don't look to bad until you start scaping, make sure it's removed and totally dry before painting.

[jellison]

But to do it properly the body has to come off the chassis at least enough to get at the top of tubes that cannot be gotten at with it on top. Can't be as bad as Shpubs!

Is it garaged / not driven in wet - driving these pieces of poorly built metal plastic just kills them.

Should have been galvanised from new - but ha that would cost money!!!!!!!!!!!!

[oli_quick]

ooo I sense resent to our British 'let's do things by half' attitude...ah well...at least it hasn't got leaf springs...ahem...Chevy.

I drove it in the rain last weekend...but it is garaged.

Does anyone think it is worth me asking TVRPower or which ever good garage I take it to - to do something about it, or will this just be thousands.

[jellison]

Same year as mine if you can take headers off then you shoul be able to jack the whole body off - 28 + bolts and a few jacks - turned mine around in 10 days.

I am only talking about jacking about 6" - but you can get to virtually all of it that way.

Do it over the winter - dont pay someone do do something that is basically easy just time and effort.