High Handbrake - Just a Simple Fix?
High Handbrake - Just a Simple Fix?
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Discussion

Hunts887

Original Poster:

109 posts

88 months

Monday 6th December 2021
quotequote all
Any idea what a high handbrake generally is a sign of?

I Have a Toyota Celica, 2004. The handbrake does work, however, it feels like I have to put the handbrake on extra firm now to get it to brake.

What are the possibilities of this issue? Is it straight forward enough to do?

Cheers

paintman

7,860 posts

220 months

Monday 6th December 2021
quotequote all
Brake shoes/pads out of adjustment.
Stretched handbrake cables(s).
If there are two cables - one to each of the wheel mechanisms - then one has broken.

As to the degree of difficulty I suppose it depends on your spannering abilities.

Hunts887

Original Poster:

109 posts

88 months

Monday 6th December 2021
quotequote all
paintman said:
Brake shoes/pads out of adjustment.
Stretched handbrake cables(s).
If there are two cables - one to each of the wheel mechanisms - then one has broken.

As to the degree of difficulty I suppose it depends on your spannering abilities.
You think it's worth removing the console cover and tightening it handbrake-side first?

Cheers

Pica-Pica

16,634 posts

114 months

Monday 6th December 2021
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I thought self-adjusting parking brakes (not a handbrake) were pretty much standard nowadays. Once cars had dual circuit systems, the required efficiency of the parking brake dropped from (if I recall correctly) 25% to 16%.
Does the car have rear drum brakes as service (i.e. main brakes) or drum in hat (disc brake with a drum for parking brake shoes)?
When you say does not work very well, is that when parking or when using it to bring to a stop (a recommended now-and-again procedure at low speeds to keep the shoe linings in condition)? No parking brake can stop a moving car very well at all.

Smint

3,647 posts

65 months

Monday 6th December 2021
quotequote all
Always start at the business end when a handbrake is high, simply adusting the cable up without checking all is well at the business could prevent any automatic adjusters there from working properly.
Not sure on Celica but some Toyotas have the excellent drum inside disc design for park brake, in such designs the shoes only operate as a park brake.

Anyway, whatever the system is make the sure the shoes or pads are free moving, if its the drum inside disc design then almost certainly there will be manual adjusters for that type of brake shoe, but to check all is well with the shoes and drum friction area you will need to remove the disc/drum completely to inspect, clean everything up and make sure all pivot points and the handbrake cable itself is lubed if you can access it...you can also feed oil down the cable from the handbrake lever end.

So with either the shoes adjusted up or you've made sure the rear pads can self adjust (if pads operate park brake too) then partly adjust the cable up to give you a park brake of sorts, then a quick run out in the car using the park brake gently to bed everything in nicely, after that you might need to readjust the park brake shoes, last thing you do is tighten the cable at the handbrake lever end.

If the vehicle has drum brakes only at the rear, then its a similar operation to the drum inside disc, but the shoes will have automatic adjusters, you can check that mechanism is working properly.

E-bmw

13,487 posts

182 months

Monday 6th December 2021
quotequote all
As above, get the braking end right before doing the cable/lever end.

Slacken the lever and adjusters, remove wheels/drums & get the actual brakes right & adjusted then adjust the lever end up.

finishing touch

818 posts

197 months

Monday 13th December 2021
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Both on my niece's Passat and on my Volvo it was seized self adjusters.

Squirt of penetrating oil, tap with a nylon mallet, another squirt, another tap. Half a dozen pulls from in the car etc etc.

From seven notches to four after 15 mins or so. Job done.