Green Door card multi pin plug

[Peter-j8c3u]

Did the window runner felt today, when i disconnected the multi plug it was a grim sight indeed. Lots of verdigris and old dialectic grease.

Spent a fair while looking for a speaker wire until I realised it was in the loom on the plug :clown:

Also knocked the little lever off the window microswitch but didn’t realise till I’d got the glass back in

Wiper panel being resprayed, I might get some paint protection film on it before I fit it.

[Byker28i]

Worth cleaning the plugs if you've everything apart. I have some tiny files, brushes, switch cleaner etc as a lot of the door issues are generally down to dirty contacts.

[Peter-j8c3u]

I might try a bit of steam to soften the grease and then blow it out from the wire end of the plug. I’m amazed I didn’t have issues already.

The window runners are a marked improvement on window operation but not perfect, I might test the working voltage the motors getting. I read posts reporting 8v, you can fit a relay to get 12v to it but I’m not sure where the 12v comes from, I wouldn’t want to try routing a new wire into the door.

[RUSSELLM]

If you’ve got the door card off, I’d replace the connectors with the weatherproof type.

edit… There’s an inline connector on the lower A post for the door. Your supply to the windows (switches polarity) goes through that inline. So you break out of that, to fire your relays. Then run your new 12v supply to the relays.

In my case, the existing 25 year old wires from the window module to the window, can’t carry the load. I suspect the harness is breaking down. That said, now you’ve seen the spec of the connector they’ve used in the door, it’ll give you a rough idea of the quality of the harness they’ve used

Edited by RUSSELLM on Saturday 8th January 12:33

[FarmyardPants]

^ agree with Russ. I changed the two window motor wires to use waterproof connectors instead of going through that connector block and it made a big difference to the window speed. The wires from the motor also go through their own connector (buried in the door, about 40cm from the motor) and changing that connector also helped.

[Peter-j8c3u]

RUSSELLM said:

If you’ve got the door card off, I’d replace the connectors with the weatherproof type.

Have you got a link?, I think that’d be a wise move.

edit… There’s an inline connector on the lower A post for the door. Your supply to the windows (switches polarity) goes through that inline. So you break out of that, to fire your relays. Then run your new 12v supply to the relays.

Is it on the inside of the door inside the harness because I don’t fancy fishing an other wire through?

In my case, the existing 25 year old wires from the window module to the window, can’t carry the load. I suspect the harness is breaking down. That said, now you’ve seen the spec of the connector they’ve used in the door, it’ll give you a rough idea of the quality of the harness they’ve used

Edited by RUSSELLM on Saturday 8th January 12:33

[RUSSELLM]

No need to touch the door harness. Follow the wires from the door, and you’ll come to the inline connectors on the lower A post.

Connector wise…..

“ Thank you for your order with Auto Electric Supplies Limited.

You ordered the following products:

Superseal Connector Kit - 160132 Superseal Connector Kit (each)
1 x £39.33

Crimping Tool for Econoseal & Superseal Terminals - 150211 Crimping
tool for Econoseal & Superseal (each)
1 x £30.97

Subtotal: £70.30
Delivery: £4.50
VAT: £14.96
Total: £89.76”

That’s a decent starter kit

[Peter-j8c3u]

Oh, so the in-line connector is behind the carpet on the a post in the footwell, I use that to fire the relay,connect a good 12v to the relay and send the 12v on the other end of the in-line connector?

Thanks for the links

[RUSSELLM]

Yep, that’s the way to do it

In my case, the A post has got wet at some point, so I replaced those connectors too. At the A post, and in the door, I took the opportunity to split some of the circuits up. That 12 way for the door card, I seem to recall putting a 2 way in for the speaker, 3 way for the internal illuminated button etc….. Just thought it would make future fault finding a bit easier

[Peter-j8c3u]

I should imagine, if I do a search someone has a drawing of the plug and what wires do what. I noticed the superseal conn’s are 2,4 & 6 way so it’s ideal to split it up. I’m seeing if I can just buy a die set for my ratchet crimper at the minute.