Fuel Lines- Again!
Discussion
Hi all,
I replaced the flexible fuel lines when I did the valley gasket about 3 years ago (even though they looked ok, but probably the originals).
However, a year later I noticed the new ones had cracked on the outsides.
TVR Parts sent me some replacements gratis, as apparently a poor batch has been circulated.
Now, another year on, the latest set has cracked too!
Has anyone had a similar experience?
I replaced the flexible fuel lines when I did the valley gasket about 3 years ago (even though they looked ok, but probably the originals).
However, a year later I noticed the new ones had cracked on the outsides.
TVR Parts sent me some replacements gratis, as apparently a poor batch has been circulated.
Now, another year on, the latest set has cracked too!
Has anyone had a similar experience?
Yeah the tvr parts hose is rubbish, mine didn't even last a year. I used ethanol proof stuff from https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/ and it's still perfect 3 years later
Probably R6 as used by most Tvr dealers until only a few years ago and now compounded by E5/10 issues. R6 fitted to my engine bay fuel lines split within a year.
The best solution is to replace your metal lines and make them long enough so your using only a short section of flex hose. Makes replacing these hoses a lot easier too as you can do it all from the engine bay.
The best solution is to replace your metal lines and make them long enough so your using only a short section of flex hose. Makes replacing these hoses a lot easier too as you can do it all from the engine bay.
to be safe avoid auction sites like flea bay Italian450 said:
Couldn’t easily find 12 mm Fuel tank to pump hose.
So for the moment only used the 8 mm high pressure lines.
Am trying still trying to find a supplier for 12mm. Tank is back in the car so no rush. A bit of a disappointment all for only 6 - 8 inches of tube.
They sell gates too but this is good stuff.So for the moment only used the 8 mm high pressure lines.
Am trying still trying to find a supplier for 12mm. Tank is back in the car so no rush. A bit of a disappointment all for only 6 - 8 inches of tube.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/ethanol-proof-fuel-h...
Italian450 said:
Couldn’t easily find 12 mm Fuel tank to pump hose.
So for the moment only used the 8 mm high pressure lines.
Am trying still trying to find a supplier for 12mm. Tank is back in the car so no rush. A bit of a disappointment all for only 6 - 8 inches of tube.
I’ve got a piece of 12mm Cohline Type 2240 spare (bought direct from Cohline) - PM if interested. Btw, you should be able to replace this without removing the tank. So for the moment only used the 8 mm high pressure lines.
Am trying still trying to find a supplier for 12mm. Tank is back in the car so no rush. A bit of a disappointment all for only 6 - 8 inches of tube.
asd2001 said:
I’ve got a piece of 12mm Cohline Type 2240 spare (bought direct from Cohline) - PM if interested. Btw, you should be able to replace this without removing the tank.
Could you please post the method to do this? I recently refurbed my boot so was taking the tank out anyway but I couldn't see how to change that short section without tank removal and/or disturbing the filler hose too.Tank will need to be empty.
The factory sealing method (Sikaflex is just one make) will need removing to expose the hose.
You may have the carbon canister pipe above it. I didn't it was done away with.
The pump can be un-fixed and moved laterally and the old hose removed, unyealding if it's been on a while.
Then make a thin gasket out of some rubber for example and seal around that instead, It will look a lot better than the original method.
This one also covered the hole where the CC hose used to exit the bulkhead.
HTH.
The factory sealing method (Sikaflex is just one make) will need removing to expose the hose.
You may have the carbon canister pipe above it. I didn't it was done away with.
The pump can be un-fixed and moved laterally and the old hose removed, unyealding if it's been on a while.
Then make a thin gasket out of some rubber for example and seal around that instead, It will look a lot better than the original method.
This one also covered the hole where the CC hose used to exit the bulkhead.
HTH.
I did the same. My inner hose clamp was harder to get at but squared off the corner with a multi tool saw, then got a 7mm ratchet spanner on it. I purchased the new hose from car builder which was Cohline 2240. It has only been fitted for a year so can’t comment on longevity. The hose that was on there was hydraulic hose but perfect after 28 years! I also copied the idea of the rubber square. I need to do the same on the return line. 
The picture is obviously before I squared off the corner.
The picture is obviously before I squared off the corner.
I copied Lancepar idea with solid rubber sections that I used inside the boot so all you see is the small amount of mastic used around the pipe going into the car.
I also used the same idea on seat belt mounting points inside the car which are also holes of a similar size to what you see here. Bloody huge but all masticed up from inside the car. My car constantly leaked water into the car from these seat belt anchor points so I’m very glad I also closed off this leak area using the same method and rubberised material
I also used the same idea on seat belt mounting points inside the car which are also holes of a similar size to what you see here. Bloody huge but all masticed up from inside the car. My car constantly leaked water into the car from these seat belt anchor points so I’m very glad I also closed off this leak area using the same method and rubberised material
Thanks for all your responses!
The hose has R9 stamped on it (as did the first one that failed after a year), so I guess it’s meaningless.
I think I’ll replace it with some of the Gates line, which seems well recommended.
At least removing the throttle cradle at the plenum alleviates the need to remove the plenum itself to access the end of the metal pipe on top of the gearbox.
I’m also glad I didn’t replace the original lines with braided, otherwise I never would have noticed the cracks!
Cheers!
The hose has R9 stamped on it (as did the first one that failed after a year), so I guess it’s meaningless.
I think I’ll replace it with some of the Gates line, which seems well recommended.
At least removing the throttle cradle at the plenum alleviates the need to remove the plenum itself to access the end of the metal pipe on top of the gearbox.
I’m also glad I didn’t replace the original lines with braided, otherwise I never would have noticed the cracks!
Cheers!
Access is as always limited……
I found it helped to cut the plastic ties holding the copper fuel line to the chassis under the car. That way you can pull the assembly up for better access to the jubilee clips clamping the fuel lines to the copper tube just above the gearbox.
I also had the plenum off and the heater hoses released from the pipes which are bolted to the offside rocker cover.
I found it helped to cut the plastic ties holding the copper fuel line to the chassis under the car. That way you can pull the assembly up for better access to the jubilee clips clamping the fuel lines to the copper tube just above the gearbox.
I also had the plenum off and the heater hoses released from the pipes which are bolted to the offside rocker cover.
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