"M" fuse ratings.
Discussion
Hi guys, me again.
Although m car has been rewired, it retains the old fashioned fuse box (big mistake) The two fans are wired to the third fuse from the off side and have the horns and interior light on them as well.So for practical purposes when running there is only the fans on the fuse. I have checked the current taken by one fan and it is 8A, and it does not rise above this on start up. Assuming the other fan takes 8A, then the 35A fuse is taking 16A. The fuse (glass type)has already blown once and it is overheating at present. Is the 35A rating the "blow" current and the continuous rating lower? or should the fuse take 35A?
Although m car has been rewired, it retains the old fashioned fuse box (big mistake) The two fans are wired to the third fuse from the off side and have the horns and interior light on them as well.So for practical purposes when running there is only the fans on the fuse. I have checked the current taken by one fan and it is 8A, and it does not rise above this on start up. Assuming the other fan takes 8A, then the 35A fuse is taking 16A. The fuse (glass type)has already blown once and it is overheating at present. Is the 35A rating the "blow" current and the continuous rating lower? or should the fuse take 35A?
Originally the car would have one fan, probably a weedy one drawing bugger all current. When I replaced a lot of the electrics in my car I used Autolec Fusible relays. These are relays with a bullet fuse in the top. I had a number of these (fans, horn, lights, etc) and then just effectively bypasses the main fuse box, cheap and easy to install.
davidy
>> Edited by davidy on Monday 1st August 15:04
davidy
>> Edited by davidy on Monday 1st August 15:04
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