Discussion
A filthy, despicable, evil crack has opened up on my exhaust, in the engine bay. Its about 2 inches long, and is dead along the seam on the right bank, just above the main cat (right next to the fans).
Its dead easy to see and work on.
Now, is it possible to weld it back together? I'm not worried if it doesn't look pretty, but to be frank I've spent enough money this month!
Also, will this crack be causing the faint 'blow across top of milk bottle' sound I hear as I drive? If you put your hand over the crack you can feel the gasses pushing out quite strongly.
Its dead easy to see and work on.
Now, is it possible to weld it back together? I'm not worried if it doesn't look pretty, but to be frank I've spent enough money this month!
Also, will this crack be causing the faint 'blow across top of milk bottle' sound I hear as I drive? If you put your hand over the crack you can feel the gasses pushing out quite strongly.
I would be weary welding the exhaust in place. As the engine department has a lot of fuel about.
Also any welding splatter would ruin your paint work if it splashes onto it. My experience with welding is that it will splatter a lot if the metal is rusty.
I personnelly would remove it to weld.
Dave
Also any welding splatter would ruin your paint work if it splashes onto it. My experience with welding is that it will splatter a lot if the metal is rusty.
I personnelly would remove it to weld.
Dave
Podie said:
Welding will most likely be a short term fix... without seeing it, I can't really give too much advice.
..speaks the qualified welder
I'd weld it in situ.. as long as the amps are low enough that you don't burn holes in it you should be ok. A competent welder should be able to deal with it without making a mess elsewhere I reckon.
I had my rollbar tacked together in the car before being welded up properly with no fire-startings or mess. Cheers
Matt.
>> Edited by M@H on Wednesday 3rd August 08:47
POD, I have personally carried out welding on my exhaust whilst still on the car. There is not a problem.
If you cant do it yourself then take it to a stainless steel fabricator and ask him to TIG weld it using a 304L stainless steel TIG rod. If it is a crack then also make sure they drill a small hole at each end of the crack so it doesn't creep when welding. The holes can be filled with weld after the crack is repaired. What ever you do, don't let anybody MIG or stick weld it. TIG is the best and will be perminant.
If you can wait a couple of weeks then either me or my lad will do it for you, but you will have to bring it to me. You know where I am.
Edited to say: If I have the time I'll do it for nowt, but if the lad does it, he'll want paying.
Dave
>> Edited by ntel on Wednesday 3rd August 18:39
>> Edited by ntel on Wednesday 3rd August 18:44
If you cant do it yourself then take it to a stainless steel fabricator and ask him to TIG weld it using a 304L stainless steel TIG rod. If it is a crack then also make sure they drill a small hole at each end of the crack so it doesn't creep when welding. The holes can be filled with weld after the crack is repaired. What ever you do, don't let anybody MIG or stick weld it. TIG is the best and will be perminant.
If you can wait a couple of weeks then either me or my lad will do it for you, but you will have to bring it to me. You know where I am.
Edited to say: If I have the time I'll do it for nowt, but if the lad does it, he'll want paying.
Dave
>> Edited by ntel on Wednesday 3rd August 18:39
>> Edited by ntel on Wednesday 3rd August 18:44
dtpugh said:
I am not being funny but mine don't look like stainless steel.
I always thought stainless steel is nice and shiney and wouldn't rust.
Obviously I am wrong, but how can you tell the difference between mild steel and stainless.
Dave
It may not be stainless, but in my experience when using a stainless rod in this application the job is a gud un.
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