How do you remove the fuel filter

[bobfather]

I spent too long on my back under the car yesterday, failing to get the fuel filter out. The bracket compressing bolt just spins and I can't get a spanner to stay on the rear nut to hold it. The chassis bolt appears to be completely inaccessible. I was wondering about abandoning it (well just hacking it off) and finding a more accessible location for the replacement filter.

Does anyone have a trick for getting these filters off?

[blaze_away]

Yep its an absolute nightmare.

I took a radical route and cut an approx 3 inch hole directly above the filter in the parcel shelf.

Gave me easy access to the filter to chassis bolt. I was then able to get the filter out and new one in all in a few minutes.

To re-close the hole (and provide future access) I made a larger plywood sandwich affair both above and below the hole and silicone bonded it in place.

[bobfather]

I like that Frank, the thought had crossed my mind as I am aware that the Ginetta G33 (basically a V8 TVR) has a hatch on the parcel shelf for access to the differential top mount and I plan to do that next time my diff needs attention

[Zener]

13mm long socket and preferably 3/8 drive ratchet and remove 2 hoses its not hard really even on stands

[DVR V8]

Pity you are not closer and get it on my ramps, one of my favourite jobs. If you manage to free it clamp the pipes either side and fit bungs over inlet and outlet on filter otherwise you will get covered in fuel. Regards.

[Steve_D]

DVR V8 said:

Pity you are not closer and get it on my ramps, one of my favourite jobs. If you manage to free it clamp the pipes either side and fit bungs over inlet and outlet on filter otherwise you will get covered in fuel. Regards.

All well and good in theory but despite the large number I have done fuel as far as the armpit seems a given.

Steve

[bobfather]

Zener said:

13mm long socket and preferably 3/8 drive ratchet and remove 2 hoses its not hard really even on stands

I know, I'm not one to shy away from the difficult tasks but the clamp nut and bolt are rather rusty with 10mm of rusty exposed thread. Every time I get a spanner on the nut it falls off as soon as I rotate the bolt. I'm getting nowhere and there's no space for both of my hands to be in there at the same time

[jojackson4]

If you go the hole in the shelf way use a boat hatch

[DVR V8]

Steve_D said:

All well and good in theory but despite the large number I have done fuel as far as the armpit seems a given.

Steve

Agree I got soaked in fuel the first time I changed mine 17 years ago but the last 8 times have been quite easy with a few adaptions. A big concern is are owners paying for a filter change that is not being done by so called specialist. I would expect if the filter has been changed by a so called independent every 2 years the bolt securing the filter bracket wouldn't be rusted up. Unless your car is parked in the garage next to the lifeboat station.

Edited by DVR V8 on Tuesday 5th April 22:45

Edited by DVR V8 on Wednesday 6th April 10:43

[DVR V8]

Hi bobfather. Is it possible to wedge a dumpy driver or small chisel in the bolt head to stop it turning then use a dumpy ring spanner to tighten the nut to fracture the seizure and rust. Then work copper slip into the exposed threads then loosen the nut. Regards. Also if I was in the market for a Chim or Griff not so sure if I would choose one that's had DIY holes cut in body.

Edited by DVR V8 on Tuesday 5th April 23:57

[blaze_away]

jojackson4 said:

If you go the hole in the shelf way use a boat hatch

Thats a cracking idea, I will do that on mine, cheers Peter !

[Belle427]

Don’t think there is any space back there really if you wanted to relocate it or even use a smaller one.
Purpose made Inspection panel inside seems like a good idea if it allows full access.

[Zener]

bobfather said:

Zener said:

13mm long socket and preferably 3/8 drive ratchet and remove 2 hoses its not hard really even on stands

I know, I'm not one to shy away from the difficult tasks but the clamp nut and bolt are rather rusty with 10mm of rusty exposed thread. Every time I get a spanner on the nut it falls off as soon as I rotate the bolt. I'm getting nowhere and there's no space for both of my hands to be in there at the same time

Fair dinkum

[phillpot]

What would life be without the odd little challenge

Top Tip: use a new nut 'n bolt when you put it back, may be even splash out on stainless steel.

[jojackson4]

phillpot said:

What would life be without the odd little challenge

Top Tip: use a new nut 'n bolt when you put it back, may be even splash out on stainless steel.

Or weld the nut to the clamp

[bobfather]

jojackson4 said:

phillpot said:

What would life be without the odd little challenge

Top Tip: use a new nut 'n bolt when you put it back, may be even splash out on stainless steel.

Or weld the nut to the clamp

If I get this bolt loosened, I'll be replacing it with a StSt nut and bolt tightly secured to the rear plate of the bracket. The remaining bolt thread can then pass through the hole in the front clamp plate so that a nylock nut can tighten the bracket onto the filter

[TwinKam]

Forgive me, I've no idea if the Chimp set-up is the same as the Cerb, but Peter Essling does a nice stainless filter bracket with all captive bolts (for Cerbs anyway).

[bobfather]

TwinKam said:

Forgive me, I've no idea if the Chimp set-up is the same as the Cerb, but Peter Essling does a nice stainless filter bracket with all captive bolts (for Cerbs anyway).

Good call, it's similar but not the same unfortunately

[bobfather]

Managed to loosen the clamp bolt a couple of turns using mostly old 1/2AF spanners as that collection has dumpy and proper swan neck options. Now to get it out of the chassis without getting too much petrol down my arms

[pmessling]

The clamp looks the same as the Tuscans in that is is longer on the one side. I do have some of those.