lamda convert reading from volts
Discussion
Im just using it as a guide really to make sure it doesnt run lean. the display is just the 19 led variety. and i was trying to get somthing reasonably meaningfull out of the logged data...
The motor is just a 4ltr RV8..
incedentaly I had a mooch at yer profile. I helped a mate Build a dakar many moons ago
G
The motor is just a 4ltr RV8..
incedentaly I had a mooch at yer profile. I helped a mate Build a dakar many moons ago
G
ive got a 20 led bargraph on a narrowband on one bank of my v8 and a wideband on the otherside. Under power you want to see it around 3/4 up the scale, which indicates about 12:1. In cruise / no load you want to see it around the middle (14.7:1) - although it will just tend to flicker up and down.
Have a read of the link to understand the limitations of a narrowband (and how you can build a 20 led bargraph for about £5)
www.ffp-motorsport.com/tuning/o2meter.php
Have a read of the link to understand the limitations of a narrowband (and how you can build a 20 led bargraph for about £5)
www.ffp-motorsport.com/tuning/o2meter.php
Graham said:
Its the lumenition AFR004 kit. It uses a 1v Zirconia type ego supplied by lumenition. the display has the 0-5v output for the logger.
The instructions are really helpfull it just says for data aquisition the afr004 provides a 0-5v replication of the 0-1v signal from the sensor...
In that case its simple, no doubt you have 10 LED's or similar on your gauge? Each LED will light at 0.1V intervals.
Hence each +0.5V rise on your logger = +0.1V from the sensor, or to put it another way each +0.5V rise = 1 light on the gauge on, simply convert the scale on the gauge into volts.
Matt_FP said:
Its the lumenition AFR004 kit. It uses a 1v Zirconia type ego supplied by lumenition. the display has the 0-5v output for the logger.
The instructions are really helpfull it just says for data aquisition the afr004 provides a 0-5v replication of the 0-1v signal from the sensor...
In that case its simple, no doubt you have 10 LED's or similar on your gauge? Each LED will light at 0.1V intervals.
Hence each +0.5V rise on your logger = +0.1V from the sensor, or to put it another way each +0.5V rise = 1 light on the gauge on, simply convert the scale on the gauge into volts.
Correct. But dont rely on the results too much (look at the graph in previous link to understand)
I followed a 'how to' link from the MegaSquirt site recently and got completely overwhelmed by the complexity of the wide band lambda sensor driver. I was looking for a cheap sensor-plus-box-of-tricks solution, and that seemed to require all sorts of complex calibration and setup. Is there a cheap way of doing this without all the rocket science?
GreenV8S said:
I followed a 'how to' link from the MegaSquirt site recently and got completely overwhelmed by the complexity of the wide band lambda sensor driver. I was looking for a cheap sensor-plus-box-of-tricks solution, and that seemed to require all sorts of complex calibration and setup. Is there a cheap way of doing this without all the rocket science?
Short answer is no. The easiest way to do it is just to buy an off the shelf wide band O2 kit where the driver is already correctly calibrated to the sensor.
I've used a Zeitronix ZT-2 on several occasions and always been very impressed with how accurate they are. www.zeitronix.com/
If your going for forced induction or high rpm N/A and wish to run rich then a narrowband is of no use whatsoever. Narrorband is only any good for seeing when the AFR is at Stoch.
Matt
The PLX M-300 is a well priced wideband, or there is of course Techedge's stuff from Australia, in either built, or DIY form.
Id hate to hear what you paid for the Lumenition narrowband, as you could probably have bought a wideband for the same price.
www.plxdevices.com/M-Series_productinfo.htm
www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
A narrowband is better than nothing though, but just be aware of its limitations when using it.
Jaycar in Oz do a DIY narrowband LED kit, for about Aus$15, which is basically the same as any narrowband meter, except it isnt a rip off.
Id hate to hear what you paid for the Lumenition narrowband, as you could probably have bought a wideband for the same price.
www.plxdevices.com/M-Series_productinfo.htm
www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
A narrowband is better than nothing though, but just be aware of its limitations when using it.
Jaycar in Oz do a DIY narrowband LED kit, for about Aus$15, which is basically the same as any narrowband meter, except it isnt a rip off.
GreenV8S said:
Not cheap, but has all the features I could ask for, I really like the dash display that comes with it. Do you know of a UK supplier, or am I best going direct?
I went direct with no problem at all. Haven't used the dash display, as I use the laptop for display/logging. From all accounts though the dash display is a cracking bit of kit.
Matt
GreenV8S said:
I followed a 'how to' link from the MegaSquirt site recently and got completely overwhelmed by the complexity of the wide band lambda sensor driver. I was looking for a cheap sensor-plus-box-of-tricks solution, and that seemed to require all sorts of complex calibration and setup. Is there a cheap way of doing this without all the rocket science?
I think you were probably reading about the Precision Wideband Controller (PWC) - Bruce is taking widebands to the next level of accuracy by getting the sensor properly calibrated. Pretty heavy for a first time read.
There's a guy called Bill Shurvinton in the UK that stocks techedge kits and the innovate motorsport ones that are well respected. (as well as megasquirt kits) He can be found on msefi or megasquirt_uk yahoo group.
www.innovatemotorsports.com/products.php
GreenV8S said:
Well I've splashed out on a ZT-2 with egt, narrow/wide lambda, boost, throttle logging and a dash display. Should be here in a couple of weeks.
Good choice sir, I especialy like the fact that it simulates narrowband from the wideband input meaning its easy to temporaily install for testing as you can just screw the wide band sensor into the existing boss.
Matt
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