Windscreen Wiper
Discussion
Well 2 days after getting it's first MOT in 4 years a headlight fell out, the back brakes were binding and smoking and the engine is running rough. Normal stuff you would say and now all on the mend.
However the big challenge seems to be that the windscreen wiper has given up even though the motor was managing to consume some volts without blowing fuses or bursting into flames . The blade tried to park itself in the engine bay possibly to hide then changed it's mind and parked where it should do and has now gone into hibernation.
To remove the motor can the whole assembly be removed without dismantling the dashboard?
However the big challenge seems to be that the windscreen wiper has given up even though the motor was managing to consume some volts without blowing fuses or bursting into flames . The blade tried to park itself in the engine bay possibly to hide then changed it's mind and parked where it should do and has now gone into hibernation.
To remove the motor can the whole assembly be removed without dismantling the dashboard?
On my 280 the motor is just held in with a strap behind the glove compartment. The whole thing just drops out.
Mine packed in last year. I got a replacement from David Gerald for an crazy cost, but the park mechanism wasn't the right one, causing it to park on the wrong side. I was then sent a proper one from helpful forumer Chassis 33
and now all is well. Or at least it will be when I adjust the thing again at the weekend.
Mine packed in last year. I got a replacement from David Gerald for an crazy cost, but the park mechanism wasn't the right one, causing it to park on the wrong side. I was then sent a proper one from helpful forumer Chassis 33
and now all is well. Or at least it will be when I adjust the thing again at the weekend.Yep it's about the only thing in the dashboard area that's accessible.
All you need (on mine at least) is long arms to restrain the top of the bolts that are on the nearside bulkhead, just covered by the bonnet, whilst your undoing the nuts.
p.s. Mines a +2 built sometime between 81 and 83.
All you need (on mine at least) is long arms to restrain the top of the bolts that are on the nearside bulkhead, just covered by the bonnet, whilst your undoing the nuts.
p.s. Mines a +2 built sometime between 81 and 83.
is it easy to remove the drive rack and wheel box as well? mine is an 81
I also noticed a strange looking valve presumably for the heater with what appears to be some sort of sensor coming out of it. As the heating is working well despite being turned off presumably this tap is not working. Has anyone ever removed it.
I also noticed a strange looking valve presumably for the heater with what appears to be some sort of sensor coming out of it. As the heating is working well despite being turned off presumably this tap is not working. Has anyone ever removed it.
To get at the wheelbox you will need to remove the dash and possible the heater box. If the wheel box has a problem it may be worth rotating the shaft 180 deg as it only uses half the teeth. I don't think you will find the park switch on it's own. I tried a few years back with no luck. The motor is similar to ones fitted to TR7's but the park switch is in a different place and the gearing different to give the greater sweep.
An update on wiper motors.
There are 3 basic motors 14W 16W and 27W. Ours is the 16W and is shared with TR7s Stags and Scimitars It is seemingly impossible to get a overhauled one with the park switch in the correct position. I got an exchange one from Moss (£88) but retained the Wedge gearwheel as it’s 170 degrees TR7 is about 130. The casing has blanks in the right location so I may be able to relocate the park switch.
I think I may have bent the drive tube when removing the motor so if you are removing yours anytime make sure it’s supported until disconnected from the ferrule. This requires you to undo the two bolts holding the motor in place, rotating it and then removing the cover on the gearbox and separating the flexible drive from the connecting rod. Easier said than done. It’s best to remove the passenger seat to get comfy. First time takes 45 minutes but by the 4th or 5th time its down to 10. Oh yes and the socket heads of the screws holding the gearbox cover in place are imperial so your small metric sockets don’t fit. It’s somewhere about 6mm. A metal triangular electric meter cupboard key fits on all but 2.
If you want to see an exploded diagram go to www.s-v-c.co.uk who I must say were very helpful. The armature is the same size on the 14W as the 16W but they wont swap.
After all this I got it working but the wiper only moved half way across the screen so it’s out with the dash and heater. So will also be fettling the heater to get that working properly Currently too efficient and wont turn off.
First job of course is how does it all come apart without undue violence?
There are 3 basic motors 14W 16W and 27W. Ours is the 16W and is shared with TR7s Stags and Scimitars It is seemingly impossible to get a overhauled one with the park switch in the correct position. I got an exchange one from Moss (£88) but retained the Wedge gearwheel as it’s 170 degrees TR7 is about 130. The casing has blanks in the right location so I may be able to relocate the park switch.
I think I may have bent the drive tube when removing the motor so if you are removing yours anytime make sure it’s supported until disconnected from the ferrule. This requires you to undo the two bolts holding the motor in place, rotating it and then removing the cover on the gearbox and separating the flexible drive from the connecting rod. Easier said than done. It’s best to remove the passenger seat to get comfy. First time takes 45 minutes but by the 4th or 5th time its down to 10. Oh yes and the socket heads of the screws holding the gearbox cover in place are imperial so your small metric sockets don’t fit. It’s somewhere about 6mm. A metal triangular electric meter cupboard key fits on all but 2.
If you want to see an exploded diagram go to www.s-v-c.co.uk who I must say were very helpful. The armature is the same size on the 14W as the 16W but they wont swap.
After all this I got it working but the wiper only moved half way across the screen so it’s out with the dash and heater. So will also be fettling the heater to get that working properly Currently too efficient and wont turn off.
First job of course is how does it all come apart without undue violence?
An update on wiper motors.
There are 3 basic motors 14W 16W and 27W. Ours is the 16W and is shared with TR7s Stags and Scimitars It is seemingly impossible to get a overhauled one with the park switch in the correct position. I got an exchange one from Moss (£88) but retained the Wedge gearwheel as it’s 170 degrees TR7 is about 130. The casing has blanks in the right location so I may be able to relocate the park switch.
I think I may have bent the drive tube when removing the motor so if you are removing yours anytime make sure it’s supported until disconnected from the ferrule. This requires you to undo the two bolts holding the motor in place, rotating it and then removing the cover on the gearbox and separating the flexible drive from the connecting rod. Easier said than done. It’s best to remove the passenger seat to get comfy. First time takes 45 minutes but by the 4th or 5th time its down to 10. Oh yes and the socket heads of the screws holding the gearbox cover in place are imperial so your small metric sockets don’t fit. It’s somewhere about 6mm. A metal triangular electric meter cupboard key fits on all but 2.
If you want to see an exploded diagram go to www.s-v-c.co.uk who I must say were very helpful. The armature is the same size on the 14W as the 16W but they wont swap.
After all this I got it working but the wiper only moved half way across the screen so it’s out with the dash and heater. So will also be fettling the heater to get that working properly Currently too efficient and wont turn off.
First job of course is how does it all come apart without undue violence?
There are 3 basic motors 14W 16W and 27W. Ours is the 16W and is shared with TR7s Stags and Scimitars It is seemingly impossible to get a overhauled one with the park switch in the correct position. I got an exchange one from Moss (£88) but retained the Wedge gearwheel as it’s 170 degrees TR7 is about 130. The casing has blanks in the right location so I may be able to relocate the park switch.
I think I may have bent the drive tube when removing the motor so if you are removing yours anytime make sure it’s supported until disconnected from the ferrule. This requires you to undo the two bolts holding the motor in place, rotating it and then removing the cover on the gearbox and separating the flexible drive from the connecting rod. Easier said than done. It’s best to remove the passenger seat to get comfy. First time takes 45 minutes but by the 4th or 5th time its down to 10. Oh yes and the socket heads of the screws holding the gearbox cover in place are imperial so your small metric sockets don’t fit. It’s somewhere about 6mm. A metal triangular electric meter cupboard key fits on all but 2.
If you want to see an exploded diagram go to www.s-v-c.co.uk who I must say were very helpful. The armature is the same size on the 14W as the 16W but they wont swap.
After all this I got it working but the wiper only moved half way across the screen so it’s out with the dash and heater. So will also be fettling the heater to get that working properly Currently too efficient and wont turn off.
First job of course is how does it all come apart without undue violence?
Well I think your right all this grief and aggravation may have been self inflicted by not wanting to over tighten the wiper arm. However the wheel box had rusty grease in it and it stuck. So now I have a new wheel box and re-conditioned wiper motor. I couldn’t find a exact replacement for the wheel box so have had to compromise with one from SVC. A wedge needs a 40 tooth 2¼ inch wheel box with a tapering spline. Only wheel box I could get was a parallel spline and so was stuck with an MGB wiper arm and have welded an extension on. Not good but no-one had any of the correct kind presumably because they generally haven’t started failing yet.. So look after your wheel box with perhaps a drink of spray-grease now and then From talking to SVC I believe they could have supplied a matching wiper 14W motor and wheel box complete which would have saved a lot of time and learning curve and also had a park facility.
So what else have I learnt It’s hard work to remove the dash and heater.but like all these jobs it’s easy to remove them after you have done it once. The whole dashboard is only held in place with two small captive bolts fitting into slots about 4 inches in from the windscreen pillars on each side. For ease of removal next time replace the nuts with winged nuts about M6 size that can be reached easily and tightened with fingers and won’t require removal of seats for access.
My heater is an early 2 fan type but on others you might also find that the heater fresh air vents into the cabin don’t fit into the heater holes designed? for them. Why? well the heater stops the dash fitting back far enough in the correct location. Now all solved with extension pieces glued on to the heater and all now sealed. It was managing to pump out heat?
I’ve also cured the automatic bleed system which was the hose to the heater leaking into the area underneath the heater producing automatic windscreen condensation when it warmed up but at least it cleaned it’s own mess up.
The TVR heater valve looked like Fred Dibnah had made it. A now knackered masterpiece that wouldn’t stem the flow so it was binned and replaced with one from SVC £28 inc postage.
I also discovered the secret of the veneered dash removal and have purchased some Velcro which will be used instead of bolts. My varnishing isn’t as good as a predecessors so may have another go in the future after I have done the glovebox.
All very boring but hopefully useful stuff
So what else have I learnt It’s hard work to remove the dash and heater.but like all these jobs it’s easy to remove them after you have done it once. The whole dashboard is only held in place with two small captive bolts fitting into slots about 4 inches in from the windscreen pillars on each side. For ease of removal next time replace the nuts with winged nuts about M6 size that can be reached easily and tightened with fingers and won’t require removal of seats for access.
My heater is an early 2 fan type but on others you might also find that the heater fresh air vents into the cabin don’t fit into the heater holes designed? for them. Why? well the heater stops the dash fitting back far enough in the correct location. Now all solved with extension pieces glued on to the heater and all now sealed. It was managing to pump out heat?
I’ve also cured the automatic bleed system which was the hose to the heater leaking into the area underneath the heater producing automatic windscreen condensation when it warmed up but at least it cleaned it’s own mess up.
The TVR heater valve looked like Fred Dibnah had made it. A now knackered masterpiece that wouldn’t stem the flow so it was binned and replaced with one from SVC £28 inc postage.
I also discovered the secret of the veneered dash removal and have purchased some Velcro which will be used instead of bolts. My varnishing isn’t as good as a predecessors so may have another go in the future after I have done the glovebox.
All very boring but hopefully useful stuff
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