Getting big wide wheels back on a car

[TUS373]

Took rear wheel off car this weekend for the first time. Its 20" running 335 width tyre. Got the wheel off OK, but a real challenge to lift up, move back, then position the holes in the wheel onto the 5 threaded parts (would you call this spigots?) to get the top wheel nut on. All this whilst on my knees, working at below eye height and trying not to bash the disc and caliper.

The car is low, stiff suspension, so a few pumps on the trolley jack and the wheel is off the ground.

I could do with something like a mini ramp that can mount the wheels on, then raise/ push back to get the correct position.

I know there are wheel hanging tools on ebay that are threaded and screw into the top hub mounting so wheel can be posted onto that, but I have threaded spigots already that the wheel nuts go onto, so the opposite way around.

Anyone got any ideas on tools and techniques for the DIYer to make this job easier and safer? Thanks.

[Boosted LS1]

maybe sit down and rest the wheel on your legs? Or a trolley jack.

[Dave.]

Lump of wood?

[anonymous-user]

I use my outsole to lever the wheel into position or sometimes both feet either side.

[TUS373]

Thanks. It is tricky finding a good bodily position. Don't really want my legs under the car, so was trying to do this kneeling down. It's awkward doing that, trying to lift the weight of the wheel upwards and away.

In my mind, I was wondering if there is something that combines the function of a cheap dolley, that can also raise/lower the wheel placed on it, then position to line up the spigots. Therefore no manual lifting.

[DVandrews]

I use a long stud in one of the bolt holes and then hang the wheel on the stud through one of its holes, this takes the weight and the wheel can be manoeuvred into place to allow a couple bolts to be started.

Dave

[Glosphil]

DVandrews said:

I use a long stud in one of the bolt holes and then hang the wheel on the stud through one of its holes, this takes the weight and the wheel can be manoeuvred into place to allow a couple bolts to be started.

Dave

His car's hubs already has wheel studs & nuts, not bolts.

[donkmeister]

Never seen a dolly marketed for this purpose but you could use a standard dolly jack to move the wheel into position. I've seen them with rollers where the tyre meets the dolly, so you could rotate wheel around hub too.

Personally, I just try to keep the weight held as close to me as possible. You get dirty, but it saves your back. Dirty overalls are better than a week unable to move!

ETA this sort of thing:

[tapkaJohnD]

Commercial vehicles, with much larger wheels and tyres need specialised trollies to handle them, and to lift them into place, but they are not cheap!
https://www.sealey.co.uk/category/5637150806/wheel...

Cheapest I can find is on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234486037715?hash=item3...

John

[paintman]

If you've got a garden spade put it under the tyre & use it as a lever to raise the wheel.

Works on Land Rovers!

[5s Alive]

I use one of these in a narrow single garage where it's very difficult to manoeuvre wheels off and on in limited space. Permits wheeling it well out of the way too. £48 bay special. Works a treat and flat packs for storage.




This is it stored. Handy for wheeling heavy toolboxes around too.
Edit - it was an extra £20 or so for the wheeled dolly it sits in.

Edited by 5s Alive on Sunday 1st May 13:15

Edited by 5s Alive on Sunday 1st May 16:22

[Smint]

Yup, garden spade as above will do the trick.
Or if you have one, a 2+ ft long pry bar or tyre lever, longer versions of tyre levers are what tyre fitters use to lever truck wheels back onto the hub at the roadside after wiggling it into place.

To make life easy only raise the car just enough for the wheel to clear the ground when you remove it, that way you can wiggle/maneuver the wheel back in place and just use the edge of the pry bar lever or spade to ease the wheel in the last bit, the same lever can be used to turn the tyre if the wheel bolts and holes don't line up.

I'm no longer in the first flush of youth and find my Prado wheels a bit meaty now, i've found sitting on the ground gives better leverage using legs which are much stronger, if you can sit cross legged so your legs are out of danger you'll still have beter leverage than kneeling, if you insist on kneeling get some gel knee pads, they made a world of difference to the aches and pains i suffer from after a few hours tinkering.

[TUS373]

Thanks all. Some good ideas there. I managed better today with one of the front wheels that are a bit narrower and thinking through the task. My knees don't do well on garage floors and it dies not take a whole lot to aggravate my back so planning the job helps me through.

[Jakg]

I find it easier to sit on the floor with legs either side of the wheel and lift it up from there.

Obviously only if your car is properly supported...

[ReverendCounter]

This sort of thing is what you need, as long as you can find your thread and diameter out:

'Alloy wheel alignment guide tool, mount hanger pin, wheel lug bolt'

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234477765096?hash=item3...

Edited by ReverendCounter on Sunday 1st May 22:34

[V8covin]

Raise the car so the top stud is only a couple of mm higher than the corresponding hole in the wheel and you should be able to wiggle it on without having to lift it

[InitialDave]

Carefully lower the jack to align the hub with the wheel.

[paintman]

ReverendCounter said:

This sort of thing is what you need, as long as you can find your thread and diameter out:

'Alloy wheel alignment guide tool, mount hanger pin, wheel lug bolt'

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234477765096?hash=item3...

Edited by ReverendCounter on Sunday 1st May 22:34

Work well with wheels that use wheel bolts but the OP has studs & nuts, not bolts.

[Cold]

paintman said:

ReverendCounter said:

This sort of thing is what you need, as long as you can find your thread and diameter out:

'Alloy wheel alignment guide tool, mount hanger pin, wheel lug bolt'

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234477765096?hash=item3...

Edited by ReverendCounter on Sunday 1st May 22:34

Work well with wheels that use wheel bolts but the OP has studs & nuts, not bolts.

A simple piece of appropriate sized tubing will suffice when the vehicle has studs.

[normalbloke]

Trick is to Jack the vehicle just high enough, and no higher. Then a pry bar or tyre lever. I’ve never needed anything else, including lifting Unimog sized wheels and tyres on, and have never damaged a stud or rim, and you learn the knack to be able to rotate the wheel slightly to align the holes for the stud or bolt.