Easiest way to remove a non PAS rack

[Lloydie33]

Apologies for repost...now where it should be

Just starting out with my first TVR, a light project 4.3. Appears sound in the main areas of concern and is a hoot but there is a bit of play in the steering, which also makes a bit of knocking noise when rocked to and fro whilst stationary. If I grip the steering shaft between the lower UJ and the rack then there's no significant play. The outer ball joints look fairly new so it looks like inner ball joints and maybe some rack wear?
I'm keen on it being as it should be so thinking of sending it off to Kiley Clinton for a refurb. What is the best way to remove this non PAS rack? Can I get away with releasing the lowest UJ clamp (first marked up), undoing the outer ball joints and then unbolting the rack from the chassis and knocking the rack free from the lower UJ?
Most of the previous posts relate to the PAS rack removal or is it essentially the same bar the hydraulic faff?

Next up, the Fiesta ST150 brake upgrade

[Classic Chim]

Essentially yes I think lol
If you can’t get them apart you will have to take shaft out of top joint too so mark its orientation to shaft and wheel arch bodywork with steering wheel centred so you can easily line it up alone later
I find on re fitting I can’t get the bottom UJ on the rack even with rack bolts only holding it in a few mm and shaft tapped up into top UJ it’s still to tight to get them to line up.
You might be able to get it on before bolts go in but there’s a real chance you could cross thread or never get the bolts in. It’s worth a try though.
I have to remove shaft from top UJ connect shaft and bottom UJ to rack first then with the extra 10 mm forward free play of loose rack bolts I can just about get the shaft to go into top UJ.
I then nip rack back and centre shaft in both UJ’s.
Then realise ive got it one spline out after driving it so need to do it again!
People say you can just re track it but if it comes back dead Centre from Clinton’s you don’t want it to start it’s new life slightly off Centre and pulling on one side of the rack when the wheels are straight.

On my PS rack I had to remove or at least disconnect front arb from front of chassis and push it out the way so I could get the rack out the n/s wheel arch.
I doubt you’ll need to do that with the non pas rack

Edited by Classic Chim on Sunday 1st May 23:39

[Lloydie33]

Thanks Classic Chim, thats really useful.
Curiously the rack has the large TVR logo cast into the ally body - I saw on the racetechdirect website that these were the later manual rack type which is unexpected as mine is a May 1993 registered car.

Probably worth me closely inspecting the inner ball joints first in case they are the culprit, though I do like the idea of a nice refurbed rack to know its all good.

[Belle427]

Probably easier if you could remove the tie rods from the rack first but they are fecking tight.
It does come out with them on but it is awkward, can’t remember which side was easier to slide it out through.
I clamped the steering wheel straight ahead before starting, I got the alignment checked anyway afterwards just to be sure as you can guarantee it won’t be spot on when re assembling.
Took some measurements of brake disc face to chassis using a spirit level front and back to try to get it somewhere close.

[Lloydie33]

Thanks Belle427, I'm gonna have a go at getting the rack rods off in situ. At least its better than my daughters fiesta that had no flats so you've got to blob weld the ball n socket!

Will try my best to mark up UJ's, centralise the steering, and make the discs parallel for now. Then proper tracking later.

[Belle427]

I had to use heat to help free them off as they were loctited.