Toyota MR2 buying advice?
Discussion
I'm torn. Looking at getting a MK3 and got a couple of possibilities.
There's this one, which is a little older but has been decatted (new downpipe), new subframe, and lots of work on the brakes and suspension. Pre facelift model. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2022041346...
Or this one. Newer, and MOT history shows previous corrosion to rear suspension which then disappeared so I suspect new subframe but can't confirm. Doesn't look to be decatted, but it is a facelift model so less of a concern?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2022043052...
Both a similar price, both have new MOTs with no advisories, both have similar mileage.
Which one would you go for?
There's this one, which is a little older but has been decatted (new downpipe), new subframe, and lots of work on the brakes and suspension. Pre facelift model. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2022041346...
Or this one. Newer, and MOT history shows previous corrosion to rear suspension which then disappeared so I suspect new subframe but can't confirm. Doesn't look to be decatted, but it is a facelift model so less of a concern?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2022043052...
Both a similar price, both have new MOTs with no advisories, both have similar mileage.
Which one would you go for?
Facelift - Roof looks good, probably had the precats smashed out, nice (subjectively) style bar and exhaust. If the subframe has been done, then hopefully so have all the rear bushings etc.
Things to check are the radiators and handbrakes/rear calipers. At that age suspension bits will be on their way out so check shocks etc.
Things to check are the radiators and handbrakes/rear calipers. At that age suspension bits will be on their way out so check shocks etc.
PistonRings said:
Facelift - Roof looks good, probably had the precats smashed out, nice (subjectively) style bar and exhaust. If the subframe has been done, then hopefully so have all the rear bushings etc.
Things to check are the radiators and handbrakes/rear calipers. At that age suspension bits will be on their way out so check shocks etc.
That was my sort of thinking...but the pre facelift has had new calipers, handbrake cables, shocks etc. Are the engines particularly different? I'd be looking at around £500 to get all the bits done wouldn't I?Things to check are the radiators and handbrakes/rear calipers. At that age suspension bits will be on their way out so check shocks etc.
There was a few revisions, one around facelift and another later on, with the main issues sorted in the very late engines, the piston rings had extra holes drilled in iirc. On mr2roc there is a thread which indicates when the engine design changed.
Regarding price, it's more about how much you can do yourself vs needing a garage. Everything on them is quite easy to do DIY, things like the steering UJ, calipers and handbrake cables are easily doable on the driveway, the main issue I've had with mine is rust and seized bolts. Front suspension refresh was around £400 iirc all parts bought from mr2-ben.co.uk.
I take your comments on the PFL, but I'd still want the FL
Regarding price, it's more about how much you can do yourself vs needing a garage. Everything on them is quite easy to do DIY, things like the steering UJ, calipers and handbrake cables are easily doable on the driveway, the main issue I've had with mine is rust and seized bolts. Front suspension refresh was around £400 iirc all parts bought from mr2-ben.co.uk.
I take your comments on the PFL, but I'd still want the FL
I had one of these around 10 years ago for a couple of years - it was a 2000 MY.
Absolute hoot to drive, so much fun with no electrical safety shiz interfering. I remember taking it to a bloke off the OC forum who kindly remove the precats for a hundred quid or so.
It did drink some oil so had to keep an eye on it and top up a litre every now and then. Had issues with a sticky rear caliper and O2 sensor. Ended up selling it silly cheap to get rid.
Looking at the MOT history, it looks like it failed spectacularly a few weeks ago!
Repair immediately (major defects):
Offside Front Headlamp aim too high (4.1.2 (a))
Offside Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength sill at rear (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Brake cable has restricted free movement (1.1.15 (e))
Offside Rear Brake lever has restricted free movement handbrake lever on calliper (1.1.15 (e))
Offside Rear Parking brake inoperative on one side (1.4.1 (a))
Nearside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Exhaust carbon monoxide content at idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b))
Exhaust hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b))
Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c))
Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b))
Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
Offside Rear Tyre obviously under inflated (5.2.3 (l))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Nearside Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive inner sill at rear (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive inner sill at rear (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Tyre slightly damaged (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Road wheel slightly distorted (5.2.2 (c) (i))
Power steering pipe/hose slightly corroded (2.1.5 (g) (i))
Offside Rear brake flexi, locating pin not located into calliper
Offside Rear brake cable, split pin missing
Absolute hoot to drive, so much fun with no electrical safety shiz interfering. I remember taking it to a bloke off the OC forum who kindly remove the precats for a hundred quid or so.
It did drink some oil so had to keep an eye on it and top up a litre every now and then. Had issues with a sticky rear caliper and O2 sensor. Ended up selling it silly cheap to get rid.
Looking at the MOT history, it looks like it failed spectacularly a few weeks ago!
Repair immediately (major defects):
Offside Front Headlamp aim too high (4.1.2 (a))
Offside Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength sill at rear (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Brake cable has restricted free movement (1.1.15 (e))
Offside Rear Brake lever has restricted free movement handbrake lever on calliper (1.1.15 (e))
Offside Rear Parking brake inoperative on one side (1.4.1 (a))
Nearside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Exhaust carbon monoxide content at idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b))
Exhaust hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b))
Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c))
Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b))
Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
Offside Rear Tyre obviously under inflated (5.2.3 (l))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Nearside Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive inner sill at rear (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive inner sill at rear (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Tyre slightly damaged (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Road wheel slightly distorted (5.2.2 (c) (i))
Power steering pipe/hose slightly corroded (2.1.5 (g) (i))
Offside Rear brake flexi, locating pin not located into calliper
Offside Rear brake cable, split pin missing
PistonRings said:
There was a few revisions, one around facelift and another later on, with the main issues sorted in the very late engines, the piston rings had extra holes drilled in iirc. On mr2roc there is a thread which indicates when the engine design changed.
So on this basis, a 2003 is unlikely to have the revised design then, and condition and service history and condition possibly more important than age?mde1982 said:
So on this basis, a 2003 is unlikely to have the revised design then, and condition and service history and condition possibly more important than age?
Exactly that, frequent oil changes with good oil is more important.I found the thread on mr2roc and mattperformance, a well known car builder on the forum stated it was only 55plates on that did not suffer oil control ring issues.
I've got a FL 2004 and has had all the oil consumption issues. I would go with the mindset that the oil consumption will need to be lived with in an MR2, rather than find one that 'doesn't burn oil'.
Mine burns consistently 1l every 1600miles, and it's very easy to keep an eye on.
I'd concentrate on more making sure pre-cats have been removed, and general corrosion especially regarding rear subframe.
The handbrake is a nuisance on these so something to keep an eye on or budget for handbrake cables or calipers/refurb.
The PFL looks quite nice out of those as it seems to have had some nice work done, but I can understand the desire for the FL with it's additions: 6 speed, staggered wheel setup, front bumper etc.
Overall. specific issues on these is oil consumption, handbrake, and corrosion on subframe. All other stuff is general stuff you will find on most cars this age.
Mine burns consistently 1l every 1600miles, and it's very easy to keep an eye on.
I'd concentrate on more making sure pre-cats have been removed, and general corrosion especially regarding rear subframe.
The handbrake is a nuisance on these so something to keep an eye on or budget for handbrake cables or calipers/refurb.
The PFL looks quite nice out of those as it seems to have had some nice work done, but I can understand the desire for the FL with it's additions: 6 speed, staggered wheel setup, front bumper etc.
Overall. specific issues on these is oil consumption, handbrake, and corrosion on subframe. All other stuff is general stuff you will find on most cars this age.
B_Tank88 said:
I've got a FL 2004 and has had all the oil consumption issues. I would go with the mindset that the oil consumption will need to be lived with in an MR2, rather than find one that 'doesn't burn oil'.
Mine burns consistently 1l every 1600miles, and it's very easy to keep an eye on.
I'd concentrate on more making sure pre-cats have been removed, and general corrosion especially regarding rear subframe.
The handbrake is a nuisance on these so something to keep an eye on or budget for handbrake cables or calipers/refurb.
The PFL looks quite nice out of those as it seems to have had some nice work done, but I can understand the desire for the FL with it's additions: 6 speed, staggered wheel setup, front bumper etc.
Overall. specific issues on these is oil consumption, handbrake, and corrosion on subframe. All other stuff is general stuff you will find on most cars this age.
Thanks. So having the FL doesn't protect you from oil consumption issues. That's good to know.Mine burns consistently 1l every 1600miles, and it's very easy to keep an eye on.
I'd concentrate on more making sure pre-cats have been removed, and general corrosion especially regarding rear subframe.
The handbrake is a nuisance on these so something to keep an eye on or budget for handbrake cables or calipers/refurb.
The PFL looks quite nice out of those as it seems to have had some nice work done, but I can understand the desire for the FL with it's additions: 6 speed, staggered wheel setup, front bumper etc.
Overall. specific issues on these is oil consumption, handbrake, and corrosion on subframe. All other stuff is general stuff you will find on most cars this age.
Echo the thoughts above about oil usage, I've a 2004 on 56K and it does use a bit of oil. Nothing serious but still needs keeping an eye on.
Bits are cheap and easy to get hold of once you get to know where to get them from, front fog lights can be had off E Bay for £30 a pair as Prius ones fit and a new roof is £350 fitted by a guy in Swansea that everyone uses.
Just have a good look round and do the usual checks and I really enjoy mine,
Bits are cheap and easy to get hold of once you get to know where to get them from, front fog lights can be had off E Bay for £30 a pair as Prius ones fit and a new roof is £350 fitted by a guy in Swansea that everyone uses.
Just have a good look round and do the usual checks and I really enjoy mine,
I've got a 2001 model. For me they are better looking but each to their own.
Engines are easily replaced and its not the cats that cause the problem. The issue is that there's an inbuilt EGR and when the oil starts to burn the gases recirculate which then wears the cats down. So as long as the car has regular services and oil changes you should be fine.
The rear subframe is the next big thing and unless you jack up the car you won't be able to tell. The subframe is fairly straightforward to replace and any garage should be able to do it.
Roof is another big one. If you're decent with a spanner then you'd be able to replace the full roof but if not depending on your location it could be a costly job.
Definitely test drive a few and see what you think. I really enjoy the fact that you can drive flat out and stay within the speed limit.
Engines are easily replaced and its not the cats that cause the problem. The issue is that there's an inbuilt EGR and when the oil starts to burn the gases recirculate which then wears the cats down. So as long as the car has regular services and oil changes you should be fine.
The rear subframe is the next big thing and unless you jack up the car you won't be able to tell. The subframe is fairly straightforward to replace and any garage should be able to do it.
Roof is another big one. If you're decent with a spanner then you'd be able to replace the full roof but if not depending on your location it could be a costly job.
Definitely test drive a few and see what you think. I really enjoy the fact that you can drive flat out and stay within the speed limit.
mde1982 said:
Purchase made. Neither of the 2 above! I've gone for an MR-S with a recent engine rebuild, and replacement clutch, water pump, gearbox etc. Good roof and subframe solid. There's a few bits to sort inside (just loose trim etc) but very happy with it.
Hope you enjoy it! Get yourself onto the MR2ROC forum if you haven't already. Not the most active of places nowadays, but has a wealth of information as a knowledge base and some very enthusiastic members.
Had mine since 2017, and even with some more expensive and therefore supposedly better things available to drive, I'm hooked on it.
Fady said:
Hope you enjoy it!
Get yourself onto the MR2ROC forum if you haven't already. Not the most active of places nowadays, but has a wealth of information as a knowledge base and some very enthusiastic members.
Had mine since 2017, and even with some more expensive and therefore supposedly better things available to drive, I'm hooked on it.
It was the MR2OC forum where I found it listed for sale! 👍Get yourself onto the MR2ROC forum if you haven't already. Not the most active of places nowadays, but has a wealth of information as a knowledge base and some very enthusiastic members.
Had mine since 2017, and even with some more expensive and therefore supposedly better things available to drive, I'm hooked on it.
Gassing Station | Toyota | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff