L200 starting issue

[skeeterm5]

Hi all

I have a 2003 L200 which is my farmyard workhorse and it is perfect for that.

Recently it has become a little difficult to start, sometimes when I turn the ignition key the little glow plug doesn’t light up and it won’t start. If I turn it off and back on, sometimes once sometimes a couple of times, the glow plug light comes on and it starts up no problem.

Any ideas what it could be?

Thanks

[LandieMark]

I would start by looking for the glow plug relay.

[skeeterm5]

Thanks, will look at that.

[skeeterm5]

Update and warning….

New one arrived and I set to fitting it. A bit fiddly but got the old one off and the new one wired in. Then went to bolt it back to the chassis.

Being a little ham fisted I managed to touch both terminals to the bodywork and bracket, cue lots of sparks and crackle noises. Thought that was interesting and fitted it, went to switch the ignition on and no glow plug sign at all.

Seems that I might have fried it.

I knew I should have disconnected the battery but didn’t. When the replacement for the replacement arrives I will disconnect the battery before starting.

Live and (hopefully) learn.

[Polly Grigora]

Are you sure the glow plugs fuse hasn't blown?

[LandieMark]

Indeed, I should have been clearer. I meant find the glow plug relay and check it was working as intended which would include checking the fuse before loading the parts cannon.

[skeeterm5]

It works intermittently, so I have concluded (perhaps wrongly) that it can’t be the fuse. If the fuse were blown it wouldn’t work at all.

[LandieMark]

That's correct, it wouldn't, but it could be a broken wire that's making a circuit sometimes. If the new relay doesn't fix it then it's likely a wiring issue.

[skeeterm5]

Thanks, will check that after I fit the new bit tomorrow (after disconnecting the battery)

[Polly Grigora]

Where you mention shorting out the relay, something from the past gets me thinking that you've changed the main solenoid that has 2 heavy stud terminals plus 1 or 2 spade terminals or a couple of thin cables coming from it

If thee above is correct, there is very little chance that the new solenoid has been damaged

and

If the above is correct there is every chance that there is a seperate very expensive glow plug ECU that operates the solenoid that you've replaced and there is also a temp sensor in the ECU circuit plus a big resistor connected to the glow plugs that is used for sensing the glow plugs current draw

If your vehicle is as above, 1 or more faulty glow plugs will cause the circuit to fail, the ECU won't operate correctly

This is all a blast from the past for me but will never forget the problem as it was a proper pain to test and solve without a wiring diagram

[skeeterm5]

Thanks.

I think you are recalling the relay correctly, it looks like this.



I was thinking about changing the glow plugs themselves, they aren’t a lot of money and I have no idea how to test them, unlike spark plugs which I could test.

The other thing I am going to take a look at is the fuel filter, but I don’t think it is that. When cranking the car over before it starts there is a lot of white smoke out of the back which I think I sunburnt fuel, This clears immediately the car starts.

[skeeterm5]

To add, just googled how to test glow plugs and that looks straightforward, so will have a go at that too.

[Polly Grigora]

Yes that's the solenoid I've mentioned or very similar, it was many moons ago and all has long gone

Ok then

If needing to replace glow plugs make sure that the new ones are of the correct voltage, whatever that is, I know of 6, 9 and 12 volt plugs but can't remember what voltage your motor uses

If you end up in deep st and the jobs going to eat away at good money needed for other things, there is a cheap get out if not wanting to throw lots of dosh at the job.......

A push-button can be fitted inside the vehicle and wired directly to that solenoid you've replaced, ECU is no longer needed and pretty sure it can be disconnected, push-button should be wired to operate the solenoid which in turn powers the glow plugs, operate push-button for 15 seconds before cranking

Obviously if carrying out the above push-button fix there is no way to get the plugs to switch on and off until the engine is warm like the ECU might do, no problem though as once the baby kicks up she will keep running

Edited by Polly Grigora on Sunday 22 May 22:00

[skeeterm5]

To add, just googled how to test glow plugs and that looks straightforward, so will have a go at that too.

[skeeterm5]

Hi again!

So, I have the new relay and have out to fit it this afternoon. However the fitting is slightly different.

The old one has a push fit plastic thing that slides onto a blade;


The new one is designed for a wire with a ring on the end and then tightened with a small screw;



I could send it back, but can I simply snip the plastic thing off the wire and replace with a ring connector? Or will that end up with me in some sort of hell reserved for idiots.

Thanks for any advice.

[E-bmw]

No problem, or could it be that there is a spade connector screwed on that you can swap over to the new one?

[skeeterm5]

Thanks.

Back into the battle tomorrow then.

[skeeterm5]

Final update.

The sparking that I caused when fitting the 1st replacement relay also blew the 80A fuse from the battery, not that I knew that at the time. I found this out when it was clear that the new relay had no power to it.

New 80A fuse delivered this morning so out into the barn and rebuilt everything.

Turn the key….. glow plug light comes on and then goes off after a few seconds, as it should.

Turn the key more…… engine fires into life almost immediately.

I feel like a mechanical god!!

Thanks for all the help.

[LandieMark]

Glad it turned out!