Potential warranty issue - how to approach?
Potential warranty issue - how to approach?
Author
Discussion

Andrew Hirst

Original Poster:

10 posts

54 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Hi folks,

I have an issue with a Mazda purchased with 'Mazda Used Approved' warranty.

The engine light came on and a P0421 code has been generated and I'm reading online this often points to catalytic convertor failure. It can be something minor like a frayed O2 sensor cable or exhaust leak, but this seems uncommon. I've not noticed any issues when driving.

The rep at the local Mazda dealership asked me to clear the code see if it comes back (not sure if this was good advice) and booked the car in "to have a look".

Having had a read about P0421 I think it needs more than a quick look.

This is the fist time I've bought a car from a dealership can anybody advise how to approach this issue?

As far as warranty goes, I see this exclusion from the handbook : Catalytic converters (except in the case of internal failure or failure to meet emission requirements under government legislation).

I'm not sure what else but "internal failure" can cause catalytic convertor failure?

The car has done <60k btw

Thanks for reading..

valiant

14,333 posts

191 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Get it looked at by Mazda and go from there.

It’s all you can really do at this stage.

stevemcs

10,392 posts

124 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
It doesn't mean the cat has failed, it means the car doesn't like what it see's, it could be as simple as an air leak, a sensor or the cat. Clearing it and see what happens is what we would advise. Run it on decent fuel and see what happens.

SteBrown91

3,161 posts

160 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Dont clear the code as you are deleting the fault. Let Mazda dealer with it

lb3nson

832 posts

120 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Don’t clear anything and just book it in at the dealer for them to investigate. Why would you look to do anything different?

RazerSauber

2,940 posts

91 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
SteBrown91 said:
Dont clear the code as you are deleting the fault. Let Mazda dealer with it
Probably the first thing the dealer will do, say it's then fine and charge you because it's not covered under warranty.

Matt_E_Mulsion

1,746 posts

96 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
If it's under warranty make sure that they know that you know it is and aren't going to be paying for anything. Don't let them try and stiff you with a diagnostic charge or anything similar.

Evercross

6,883 posts

95 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Ah yes, the good old alarmist fault codes! Not so long ago I had a car that threw up a whole series of fault codes relating to cruise control failure, ABS failure and a whole host of other things. Dim-witted dealer had me believing I was looking at thousands of pounds to replace the ABS pump, the drive-by-wire potentiometer on the accelerator, the speedometer (which had stopped working) and a whole host of other expensive parts.

Turned out to be a split reluctor ring on one of the half shafts. Speed senor data was absent at that corner so all speed-related functions had been shut down by the ECMs. New ring and fitting was less than £50.

One of the standard methods of fault diagnosis is to clear a code and see how quickly it returns and under what circumstances, BTW. My advice is don't panic and apply some critical thinking to the issue. Give the dealer a chance to check things like the 02 sensors and gaskets. If the cat has been poisoned due to the failure of another component that is covered by warranty then you might have a case to argue, but don't go in all guns blazing at this point.

I suspect though that the emissions failure and internal failure inclusions will have you covered though. The warranty terms are protecting the underwriter from situations where the exhaust may have been modified or physically damaged.

Edited by Evercross on Tuesday 17th May 15:57

raspy

2,714 posts

125 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
SteBrown91 said:
Dont clear the code as you are deleting the fault. Let Mazda dealer with it
Agreed. I had a car purchased under approved used, and whilst the approved used warranty was still valid, I got a check engine light one morning. Drove it straight to the main dealer (not the one I bought the car from), told them I'm not willing to drive it as I don't want to take chances if it's something major and driving would cause it damage.

They understood, took it in and arranged a loan car within 2 hours. It's MB so their scheme can be quite good.

Anyway, got a call the next day to say I could pick up my car, it's been fixed, the car just needed a software update for the thermostat (which they applied) and it was all covered under the approved used warranty.

georgeyboy12345

4,664 posts

66 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
raspy said:
SteBrown91 said:
Dont clear the code as you are deleting the fault. Let Mazda dealer with it
Agreed. I had a car purchased under approved used, and whilst the approved used warranty was still valid, I got a check engine light one morning. Drove it straight to the main dealer (not the one I bought the car from), told them I'm not willing to drive it as I don't want to take chances if it's something major and driving would cause it damage.

They understood, took it in and arranged a loan car within 2 hours. It's MB so their scheme can be quite good.

Anyway, got a call the next day to say I could pick up my car, it's been fixed, the car just needed a software update for the thermostat (which they applied) and it was all covered under the approved used warranty.
That’s what they told you. They probably just cleared the code.

georgeyboy12345

4,664 posts

66 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Clearing the code isn’t bad advice from the dealer. Best just trying that first then seeing if it comes back. It might be nothing. I had it with my car when it threw a code for an oil temp sensor. Cleared the code, problem never came back.

raspy

2,714 posts

125 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
georgeyboy12345 said:
That’s what they told you. They probably just cleared the code.
I'm sorry to hear you've had bad experiences with main dealers. That's not been my experience.

stevemcs

10,392 posts

124 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Evercross said:
Ah yes, the good old alarmist fault codes! Not so long ago I had a car that threw up a whole series of fault codes relating to cruise control failure, ABS failure and a whole host of other things. Dim-witted dealer had me believing I was looking at thousands of pounds to replace the ABS pump, the drive-by-wire potentiometer on the accelerator, the speedometer (which had stopped working) and a whole host of other expensive parts.

Turned out to be a split reluctor ring on one of the half shafts. Speed senor data was absent at that corner so all speed-related functions had been shut down by the ECMs. New ring and fitting was less than £50.

One of the standard methods of fault diagnosis is to clear a code and see how quickly it returns and under what circumstances, BTW. My advice is don't panic and apply some critical thinking to the issue. Give the dealer a chance to check things like the 02 sensors and gaskets. If the cat has been poisoned due to the failure of another component that is covered by warranty then you might have a case to argue, but don't go in all guns blazing at this point.

I suspect though that the emissions failure and internal failure inclusions will have you covered though. The warranty terms are protecting the underwriter from situations where the exhaust may have been modified or physically damaged.

Edited by Evercross on Tuesday 17th May 15:57
BMW by any chance ? the pick up ring swells up and fools the sensor - usually turning off the traction control will allow you to drive the car.

Even if the op doesn't clear the code thats the first thing the dealer is going to do before sending it on its way its too generic.

Starfighter

5,352 posts

209 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Make sure that the job sheet is clear. "Investigate and correct error code ...." not "Replace / adjust sensor". You will need to have some level of history for the fault and attempts to fix it.

Andrew Hirst

Original Poster:

10 posts

54 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Thanks for the comments.

Regarding the code I cleared it.. because that's what the dealer recommended.

With hindsight I think with an engine light on they have a formal obligation to investigate? I suspect this as when I was asked if I had Mazda roadside assistance - they said 'oh but if you call them they will just _tow_ the car to us' [because the engine warning light is on]

Watch and wait for the code to reappear might be a fair approach, but it leaves me stressed.

Can this code just come up as a glitch?

Starfighter said:
Make sure that the job sheet is clear. "Investigate and correct error code ...." not "Replace / adjust sensor". You will need to have some level of history for the fault and attempts to fix it.
Thank you, can you recommend how to go about this.

How to -politely- make sure a proper diagnostic is done under warranty, or provide me with a job sheet ahead of works?

The language is nice and friendly but ambiguous 'book it in' ... 'we'll take a quick look' etc

They are supposed to be good guys btw.

stevemcs

10,392 posts

124 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Yes it can be a glitch, we have had couple recently where the codes were random and the only thing in common was supermarket fuel - both petrol cars

The issue you have with main dealers is they will have to follow a set process to diagnose. It might be too late but if it happens just scan it and take a picture for reference.

Andrew Hirst

Original Poster:

10 posts

54 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Evercross said:
Ah yes, the good old alarmist fault codes! Not so long ago I had a car that threw up a whole series of fault codes relating to cruise control failure, ABS failure and a whole host of other things. Dim-witted dealer had me believing I was looking at thousands of pounds to replace the ABS pump, the drive-by-wire potentiometer on the accelerator, the speedometer (which had stopped working) and a whole host of other expensive parts.

Turned out to be a split reluctor ring on one of the half shafts. Speed senor data was absent at that corner so all speed-related functions had been shut down by the ECMs. New ring and fitting was less than £50.

One of the standard methods of fault diagnosis is to clear a code and see how quickly it returns and under what circumstances, BTW. My advice is don't panic and apply some critical thinking to the issue. Give the dealer a chance to check things like the 02 sensors and gaskets.
Thanks! Appreciate the calming suggestions.

Evercross said:
I suspect though that the emissions failure and internal failure inclusions will have you covered though. The warranty terms are protecting the underwriter from situations where the exhaust may have been modified or physically damaged.
Seems to make sense.

Proof is in the pudding? I hope to skip desserts!

Andrew Hirst

Original Poster:

10 posts

54 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
stevemcs said:
Yes it can be a glitch, we have had couple recently where the codes were random and the only thing in common was supermarket fuel - both petrol cars.
Took on board your previous comment. I'll top up with premium next time.

stevemcs said:
The issue you have with main dealers is they will have to follow a set process to diagnose. It might be too late but if it happens just scan it and take a picture for reference.
I do have these, timestamped.




stevemcs

10,392 posts

124 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
Keep them just incase, you have a copy of the code and you have logged it with the dealer, just see how it goes

Turkey

382 posts

215 months

Tuesday 17th May 2022
quotequote all
On my E46 with 170,000 miles it is due to cats ageing. A hard fault with wiring would cause another code. I guess in theory an air leak or poor mixture could stop the cats working but imagine you would get a fuel trim code sharpish not a cat efficiency one.

A worn O2 sensor could in theory if the detection system is crude, but I think it less likely, as a good monitoring algorithm will be looking for the point at which the post cat readings start being stable and stop fluctuating a lot in line with the pre-cat lambda readings, once the cats have warmed up and lit off, not just a slightly low or high reading that is stable.

So I would be wondering if cats are a weak point on this model or whether something (wrong fuel or excessive oil burning) had poisoned them. But if under warranty and nothing to lose then I imagine they have to sort it one way or the other.