Help! Wheel bearing collapsed...
Discussion
I've found that you have to go through the aftermarket / pattern suppliers as Ford no longer stock these bits, also your Garage will need a hydraulic press to get it out as it takes a couple of tons of pressure, also the 32mm nut is torqued up to some monster figure.
But Brian is spot on with the info although you may be able to get away with reusing the seals, if they've been prised out carefully.
Good Luck
Matt
Edited by 350matt on Tuesday 17th July 19:04
Many thanks Brian & Matt, I rang round for price & availability for said bearing kit (~£43) and gave the garage a call to pass on the info...only to be told that my particular car had been fitted with TOYO (who?) rear bearings which are 3/4" wider than the SKF part - hence the hassle in sourcing a replacement. However, apparently the new bearing has turned up today and is being fitted now.
BTW the garage is Thames Valley Racing in Hurst. First time I've had dealings with them, they've serviced the car + a few tweaks, Steve seems to be knowledgeble on all TVRs, is a v. amiable fellow and hasn't got pissed off with me ringing up every other day for 3 weeks asking if the bearing has arrived!
No, those ebay ones are not correct at all. The ones you're looking for have a big collar in the middle.
This one is more like it, although you only get one oil seal that you can use:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-ZEPHYR-ZODIAC-GRANADA-R...
or this one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-GRANADA-72-85-REAR-WHEE...
40 quid is a bit steep though, I usually pay about 25.
If you only have a little bit of play you can take off the hub nut, stick some more grease (LM, not black CV stuff) and do up the nut again bit not to 220lbf, or you'll wreck it in no time, probably about 100-150.
This one is more like it, although you only get one oil seal that you can use:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-ZEPHYR-ZODIAC-GRANADA-R...
or this one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-GRANADA-72-85-REAR-WHEE...
40 quid is a bit steep though, I usually pay about 25.
If you only have a little bit of play you can take off the hub nut, stick some more grease (LM, not black CV stuff) and do up the nut again bit not to 220lbf, or you'll wreck it in no time, probably about 100-150.
The ones I took out of the spare 400SE hub I have, had 2 bearings. but maybe having 1 large one will be stronger.
TVR Car Parts have them also at £45.00 so maybe worth just getting them from them.
I think I'll do them after Oulton, as not really got the time for anything to go wrong. plus there is only a small amount of play. had my friend who does my MOT have a look and he said they are only a little bit worn, and would pass a MOT.
TVR Car Parts have them also at £45.00 so maybe worth just getting them from them.
I think I'll do them after Oulton, as not really got the time for anything to go wrong. plus there is only a small amount of play. had my friend who does my MOT have a look and he said they are only a little bit worn, and would pass a MOT.
Leigh, if the hub nut is split-pinned, and if you take out the pin you can tighten it by hand (suspension jacked up level) then it's too loose! That's one quick check you can do.
To be fair I've never taken out a bearing from an A-frame car, just trailing arm, but I would have thought they were the same.
To be fair I've never taken out a bearing from an A-frame car, just trailing arm, but I would have thought they were the same.
adam quantrill said:
Leigh, if the hub nut is split-pinned, and if you take out the pin you can tighten it by hand (suspension jacked up level) then it's too loose! That's one quick check you can do.
To be fair I've never taken out a bearing from an A-frame car, just trailing arm, but I would have thought they were the same.
There not split pinned and the nuts are night, so don't want to touch them with so short a time till the next race, plus my brother is not about, one thing I forgot to check after the last race.To be fair I've never taken out a bearing from an A-frame car, just trailing arm, but I would have thought they were the same.
Oh and it is trailing arm, just the one I took a part to see how difficult it is was a 400SE one.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
adam quantrill said:
Leigh, if the hub nut is split-pinned, and if you take out the pin you can tighten it by hand (suspension jacked up level) then it's too loose! That's one quick check you can do.
To be fair I've never taken out a bearing from an A-frame car, just trailing arm, but I would have thought they were the same.
There not split pinned and the nuts are night, so don't want to touch them with so short a time till the next race, plus my brother is not about, one thing I forgot to check after the last race.To be fair I've never taken out a bearing from an A-frame car, just trailing arm, but I would have thought they were the same.
Oh and it is trailing arm, just the one I took a part to see how difficult it is was a 400SE one.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
[There not split pinned and the nuts are night, so don't want to touch them with so short a time till the next race, plus my brother is not about, one thing I forgot to check after the last race.
Leigh, just a suggestion, mark the position of the nut relative to the shaft with a paint line or similar - at least you will be able to tell if it's moved. Some TVR dealers used to drill and pin these as a matter of course at service time. Mine are. You don't need to drill through the body of the nut - just the shoulder is enough, and if you mark the position of the holes on the end of the shaft, you can re-drill the nut to align with the shaft if you have to remove the nut again. Avoids having multiple drillings in the shaft. I will split pin them when I change them,
But seeing as they are not loose or came loose in 10+ races I don't want to touch it currently, as just not got the time.
I'll get some of TVR Car parts though and change over winter ready for next season, as said it only got very slight play, so I'm sure there are not going anywhere.
But seeing as they are not loose or came loose in 10+ races I don't want to touch it currently, as just not got the time.
I'll get some of TVR Car parts though and change over winter ready for next season, as said it only got very slight play, so I'm sure there are not going anywhere.
Which one is the looser one? I'll bet on the passenger side... the threads (unlike Alfa Romeo) are the same hand on each side, so one side tends to undo, and the other side tends to tighten.
The paint idea is very good - just to keep an eye on it. I also mark the ends of the stub axles (hacksaw) so when I re-drill it goes through the same hole and only the nut gets multiple holes.
The paint idea is very good - just to keep an eye on it. I also mark the ends of the stub axles (hacksaw) so when I re-drill it goes through the same hole and only the nut gets multiple holes.
adam quantrill said:
Which one is the looser one? I'll bet on the passenger side... the threads (unlike Alfa Romeo) are the same hand on each side, so one side tends to undo, and the other side tends to tighten.
The paint idea is very good - just to keep an eye on it. I also mark the ends of the stub axles (hacksaw) so when I re-drill it goes through the same hole and only the nut gets multiple holes.
Your right, plus good idea on the hacksaw.The paint idea is very good - just to keep an eye on it. I also mark the ends of the stub axles (hacksaw) so when I re-drill it goes through the same hole and only the nut gets multiple holes.
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