997 3.8 c2s front spring replacement
Discussion
Pretty sure front springs come as a pair if ordered from OPC.....
Just checked the last time I priced some - 198.93 +VAT; supplied as a pair.
You'll have PASM; watch out undoing the dampers: the PASM wire mustn't be kinked or turned while undoing the damper rod top nut or you'll damage it and need to replace the dampers - though to be fair, corrosion at the top mount/conical washers usually means you'll be replacing them anyway.
Just checked the last time I priced some - 198.93 +VAT; supplied as a pair.
You'll have PASM; watch out undoing the dampers: the PASM wire mustn't be kinked or turned while undoing the damper rod top nut or you'll damage it and need to replace the dampers - though to be fair, corrosion at the top mount/conical washers usually means you'll be replacing them anyway.
Edited by Pope on Saturday 4th June 06:48
Thanks for the update. I'm replacing the dampers as there fairly corroded and also the drop links as they were a pig to get off so the car should be fairly good when I get it back on the road next weekend.
Will see if CG offer a better price but failing that will go via OPC if forced to
RossCo
Will see if CG offer a better price but failing that will go via OPC if forced to
RossCo
From a faff point of view building up two fresh dampers with all new parts is a sight easier than smashing apart 2 corroded assemblies - the top mount aluminium sections effectively join to the damper rod and if you aren't replacing everything you can spend an hour+ trying to separate the individual parts to get at the concave washers; bellows and bump stops that you'll need to swap over.
A oner a corner on springs is not expensive from any manufacturer.
The strut assemblies have an integrated top mount bearing, housed in a metal shield sandwiched with a rubber buffer between it and the spring - the bearings last a few years before water/dirt ingress makes them stiff resulting in creaks/clunks; for a complete job you'll be looking to replace them too:
If you decide to reuse any of the individual parts and you find it a struggle to separate the top mount, the easiest way seems to be inverting the damper after loosening the top mount nut and striking a drift against the underside of the top mount washer (item 6. in the above diagram); after sliding the bumpstop towards the damper body for access.
A oner a corner on springs is not expensive from any manufacturer.
The strut assemblies have an integrated top mount bearing, housed in a metal shield sandwiched with a rubber buffer between it and the spring - the bearings last a few years before water/dirt ingress makes them stiff resulting in creaks/clunks; for a complete job you'll be looking to replace them too:
If you decide to reuse any of the individual parts and you find it a struggle to separate the top mount, the easiest way seems to be inverting the damper after loosening the top mount nut and striking a drift against the underside of the top mount washer (item 6. in the above diagram); after sliding the bumpstop towards the damper body for access.
Pope said:
From a faff point of view building up two fresh dampers with all new parts is a sight easier than smashing apart 2 corroded assemblies - the top mount aluminium sections effectively join to the damper rod and if you aren't replacing everything you can spend an hour+ trying to separate the individual parts to get at the concave washers; -bellows and bump stops that you'll need to swap over.
A oner a corner on springs is not expensive from any manufacturer.
The strut assemblies have an integrated top mount bearing, housed in a metal shield sandwiched with a rubber buffer between it and the spring - the bearings last a few years before water/dirt ingress makes them stiff resulting in creaks/clunks; for a complete job you'll be looking to replace them too:
If you decide to reuse any of the individual parts and you find it a struggle to separate the top mount, the easiest way seems to be inverting the damper after loosening the top mount nut and striking a drift against the underside of the top mount washer (item 6. in the above diagram); after sliding the bumpstop towards the damper body for access.
Both of which will most likely be unusable anyway ... A oner a corner on springs is not expensive from any manufacturer.
The strut assemblies have an integrated top mount bearing, housed in a metal shield sandwiched with a rubber buffer between it and the spring - the bearings last a few years before water/dirt ingress makes them stiff resulting in creaks/clunks; for a complete job you'll be looking to replace them too:
If you decide to reuse any of the individual parts and you find it a struggle to separate the top mount, the easiest way seems to be inverting the damper after loosening the top mount nut and striking a drift against the underside of the top mount washer (item 6. in the above diagram); after sliding the bumpstop towards the damper body for access.
Slippydiff said:
Pope said:
From a faff point of view building up two fresh dampers with all new parts is a sight easier than smashing apart 2 corroded assemblies - the top mount aluminium sections effectively join to the damper rod and if you aren't replacing everything you can spend an hour+ trying to separate the individual parts to get at the concave washers; -bellows and bump stops that you'll need to swap over.
A oner a corner on springs is not expensive from any manufacturer.
The strut assemblies have an integrated top mount bearing, housed in a metal shield sandwiched with a rubber buffer between it and the spring - the bearings last a few years before water/dirt ingress makes them stiff resulting in creaks/clunks; for a complete job you'll be looking to replace them too:
If you decide to reuse any of the individual parts and you find it a struggle to separate the top mount, the easiest way seems to be inverting the damper after loosening the top mount nut and striking a drift against the underside of the top mount washer (item 6. in the above diagram); after sliding the bumpstop towards the damper body for access.
Both of which will most likely be unusable anyway ... A oner a corner on springs is not expensive from any manufacturer.
The strut assemblies have an integrated top mount bearing, housed in a metal shield sandwiched with a rubber buffer between it and the spring - the bearings last a few years before water/dirt ingress makes them stiff resulting in creaks/clunks; for a complete job you'll be looking to replace them too:
If you decide to reuse any of the individual parts and you find it a struggle to separate the top mount, the easiest way seems to be inverting the damper after loosening the top mount nut and striking a drift against the underside of the top mount washer (item 6. in the above diagram); after sliding the bumpstop towards the damper body for access.
Hi I've ordered a new set of springs from OPC and collect them tomorrow AM £238.
I've also received a new set of discs, textar pads, bumpstops and drop links so will get on with the rebuild tomorrow. The bearings seem fine so i will re use them as the car has only done 65k
I bought the dampers about a year back when a set was offered to me as the original dampers were fairly rusty
Looking forward to driving the car again
Thanks for all the comments
I've also received a new set of discs, textar pads, bumpstops and drop links so will get on with the rebuild tomorrow. The bearings seem fine so i will re use them as the car has only done 65k
I bought the dampers about a year back when a set was offered to me as the original dampers were fairly rusty
Looking forward to driving the car again
Thanks for all the comments
Rossco196x said:
£4.49 for taper washers and free coffee. Great service, thanks for the exploded view also.
Unfortunately the textar pads i ordered are the wrong size and is it ok to reuse the dampening pads
What should i be paying for a set
Thanks
The anti vibration damping pads aren’t expensive, but you could reuse the old ones. You’ll have to carefully remove them from the old pads, and get some high temperature self adhesive tape to fix them to the new brake pads.Unfortunately the textar pads i ordered are the wrong size and is it ok to reuse the dampening pads
What should i be paying for a set
Thanks
AFAIK added mass alters the specific resonance of a part - in the case of pads it can stop/reduce vibration and noise in an operating range. If the pads don't have the added weight they may be noisier I suppose?
The anti-squeal plates locate in the pistons but screw together - they can seize in the pistons too. If yours come out put a smear of copper slip on them before refitting and they'll not stick next time.
The anti-squeal plates locate in the pistons but screw together - they can seize in the pistons too. If yours come out put a smear of copper slip on them before refitting and they'll not stick next time.
Hi Pope and thanks for the reply. I called the local OPC who wanted £240 for a set of pads. I've no intention of doing track days so a set of Pagid pads are being fitted and the saved cash can go towards 10 litres of Millers 10w50 for the next oil service instead.
Other than that the dampers came out of the callipers easily so i will get the off side finished this AM and then crack on with the NS ready for its MOT.
Can't wait to see if the car handles any better!
Other than that the dampers came out of the callipers easily so i will get the off side finished this AM and then crack on with the NS ready for its MOT.
Can't wait to see if the car handles any better!
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