4.5 Starting / Green light of immobiliser of death Issues

[RobTuscS]

Hi there,

I am having trouble starting my car, this has progressively got worse and worse. To the point that the solenoid just clicks now and no cranking at all. This said I had this with a few tries it would fire but now as I say nothing at all.

I have replaced all the cables from the battery to the starter, big fuse (upgraded with a marine grade 150a insulator) alternator after the issues started so I dont believe this to be the issue.

I have tested all contact points and the same battery voltage is getting through.


This is not a hot start issue, would be nice if it was as it would point directly to the starter.

Now, I thought it was the starter, I have taken it out about 8 times and rebuilt it. It's cleaned each time properly. No funny smells or burning. Solenoid is about 9 months old and the car has only been used in about 3 of those months on and off..

However, if I try profusely the solenoid gets very hot to the point it can burn. (Holding start button down for a few minutes)

I get a click coming from the boot/alarm.

So, onto the green light flashing like a maniac next to the gear stick, I only noticed this recently which according to previous posts here on pistonheads it means that there is a fault with the alarm system..

I have checked the doors, the boot to ensure they're closed as this could point to the light flashing.

So, could this be:

Faulty immobiliser causing these issues
Solenoid is faulty
Starter motor


When I bench test the starter it was ok.

Any help appreciated as this is getting on my proverbial now!

Cheers R.

[Gazzab]

Have had similar issues. Took garages a few attempts to fix over a few years …. Cables etc. Think the key was a higher output starter (wasp) and a good high crank battery. With mine having higher compression it was always going to be a problem unless everything was perfect.

[RobTuscS]

Hi Gaz, the car has a Wosp high output starter LMS036 which as I say I checked and seems to be working, and a red top Optima battery which is about a month old. I note that there is a new Wosp stater that has a lot of fixings over the gear set for £899? Is it this one you are referring to?

One thing I didnt mention was that when the car was temporarily cranking the dashboard would go like a bunch of fairly lights flicking like a b*stard even with a full battery, but I've not had that since..

Anyway so you think a new starter should eliminate the issue based on a similar experience?

And by way of a secondary method of checking, I was thinking of bypassing the immobiliser just to check if I can rule this out if it cranks. I know there is a technique and naturally we dont want this online. But I've got no idea what to do.. so if you or someone else knows how to do this it would be appreciated but not sure how to keep this under wraps unless we can PM in here?


Anyway, thanks for your comment.

R.

[Gazzab]

Have you tried shimming your starter ?

[Gazzab]

Your id has PM’s turned off.
I have bypassed the immobiliser on an earlier Cerbera. It’s quite easy. I just can’t remember which wires needed bypassing and which didn’t.

[gruffalo]

If the solenoid is clicking then it is not the immobiliser.

Far more likely to be the starter itself or very slight possibility the wiring from the back of the car to the starter. Mine was rewired some 12 years ago by STR8SIX and since then no problems at all.

Try the starter first, they don't last for ever.

[RobTuscS]

Hi Gruffalo,

I just forked out for a complete new starter, hope to get it in the next few days.

I came to the conclusion that the computator / armature had, had it.

I hope to christ this is the solution, I just paid for a Tilton slave upgrade and well it was very expensive. Service coming up, wipers not working and need to find some cats for the MOT so it's gone a bit turbo this end... 🤣

Hi Gazza,

Yeh I have a shim but I'm not getting any spin at all from the starter.

To be honest I have no idea on how to turn on the PM feature! But I will try the new starter and then assess. After this, if it doesnt work I will comment further and try the bypass.


Thanks Gents 👍

[Polly Grigora]

RobTuscS said:

However, if I try profusely the solenoid gets very hot to the point it can burn. (Holding start button down for a few minutes)

Starter solenoids do get extremely hot if left with a supply to them, they aren't continuous current solenoids

RobTuscS said:

When I bench test the starter it was ok

This is often the case if the starter is bench tested without engine load on its drive, bad commutation or faulty armatures show up more often than not when the starter is torque tested

Hope the new starter sorts it for you

[Byker28i]

gruffalo said:

If the solenoid is clicking then it is not the immobiliser.

Far more likely to be the starter itself or very slight possibility the wiring from the back of the car to the starter. Mine was rewired some 12 years ago by STR8SIX and since then no problems at all.

Try the starter first, they don't last for ever.

The immobiliser kills three circuits though doesn't it, starter motor, fuel pump and ignition? Or did on mine that failed as it used to kill the fuel pump circuit at random times. Until I got it replaced, I had to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to reset it...

[gruffalo]

Byker28i said:

gruffalo said:

If the solenoid is clicking then it is not the immobiliser.

Far more likely to be the starter itself or very slight possibility the wiring from the back of the car to the starter. Mine was rewired some 12 years ago by STR8SIX and since then no problems at all.

Try the starter first, they don't last for ever.

The immobiliser kills three circuits though doesn't it, starter motor, fuel pump and ignition? Or did on mine that failed as it used to kill the fuel pump circuit at random times. Until I got it replaced, I had to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to reset it...

Yes it does but if the starter in clicking then it is not immobilised just not working. The immobiliser is in the solenoid circuit.

[gruffalo]

RobTuscS said:

Hi Gruffalo,

I just forked out for a complete new starter, hope to get it in the next few days.

I came to the conclusion that the computator / armature had, had it.

I hope to christ this is the solution, I just paid for a Tilton slave upgrade and well it was very expensive. Service coming up, wipers not working and need to find some cats for the MOT so it's gone a bit turbo this end... ??

Hi Gazza,

Yeh I have a shim but I'm not getting any spin at all from the starter.

To be honest I have no idea on how to turn on the PM feature! But I will try the new starter and then assess. After this, if it doesnt work I will comment further and try the bypass.

Thanks Gents ??

Good luck, the wipers are quite a quick easy fix and are normally caused by a seized motor caused by water ingress.

Easy way to see what is wrong is to unplug the motor and check for voltages to the pins on the connector if OK then motor or gearbox is most likely your problem.

Also worth removing the arms and oiling the wheel boxes well, these can seize as well.

Where are you in the world?

I have a spare wiper control unit you are welcome to try if needed.

[jamckeown]

I recently had a full engine rebuild but my old starter motor let me down soon afterwards. Tried the Hi Torque starter motors but found they were not fit for purpose and only lasted a few months. Took a chance and bought a second hand Tilton starter from Douglas Valley. It looked ropey and in fact had been on the shelf since 2006 but now fitted to car and works really well. Good luck with finding a starter fit for purpose!

[Byker28i]

Yup my starter was changed as a precaution when my engine was rebuilt, but lasted less than a year. Str8Six fitted their recommended uprated starter which has worked faultlessly since. I think I went through 3 starters in 2 years, TVR parts item, replacements under warranty until I gave up and got Str8Six to sort.

Edited by Byker28i on Wednesday 13th July 08:51

[Imran999]

Byker28i said:

Yup my starter was changed as a precaution when my engine was rebuilt, but lasted less than a year. Str8Six fitted their recommended uprated starter which has worked faultlessly since. I think I went through 3 starters in 2 years, TVR parts item, replacements under warranty until I gave up and got Str8Six to sort.

Edited by Byker28i on Wednesday 13th July 08:51

Str8six use the Tilton starter, right?

[gruffalo]

Imran999 said:

Byker28i said:

Yup my starter was changed as a precaution when my engine was rebuilt, but lasted less than a year. Str8Six fitted their recommended uprated starter which has worked faultlessly since. I think I went through 3 starters in 2 years, TVR parts item, replacements under warranty until I gave up and got Str8Six to sort.

Edited by Byker28i on Wednesday 13th July 08:51

Str8six use the Tilton starter, right?

WOSP. I believe.

[Byker28i]

I'm remote currently, will have to check the receipt when I get back

[RobTuscS]

Hi all,


Thanks for all the replies, first of all I am now not able to get a new starter (LMS036) argh! Wosp (Tilton) have discontinued it. But happy to supply the £900 option.. 😆

So I have tested it to the best of my abilities (ohms check on the armature seems fine) and I think it is just the solenoid being a shi...

I have ordered a replacement so I will get it fitted once received, so fingers crossed its just that and nothing else....

As for the green light it is still flashing like a maniac I am hoping once the car starts it resets the fault.

Gruffalo I am based near Portsmouth, my wipers work on the first part of the wipe and get stuck halfway across... If I push them they usually park So I don't think it is seized. Thanks for the kind offer.

I will make another post about the steering issues.

Thanks again all

[Gazzab]

Wipers sounds like the park switch ?

[jamckeown]

Try Fosseway Performance in Gloucester. Their web page suggests they have Tilton starters.

[Byker28i]

Gazzab said:

Wipers sounds like the park switch ?

If you're luckey. Best way to test is lift the wipers from the screen, so no resistance. Do they work properly then?

It might be the motor is tired. Mine was always minimal power to get across the screen until I had it replaced with a rebuilt uprated one.