Brake caliper sliding pins lubrication
Discussion
I'm planning to do the rear brakes on the CR-V soon - I have pads and a new caliper for the nearside, new pistons and seals for the offside caliper, and new sliding pins for each side.
What should I lubricate the sliding pins with? I have regular grease, copper grease, and some which is molybdenum(?). Thinking copper grease would be the right thing to use but would appreciate opinions.
What should I lubricate the sliding pins with? I have regular grease, copper grease, and some which is molybdenum(?). Thinking copper grease would be the right thing to use but would appreciate opinions.
GreenV8S said:
Matt_E_Mulsion said:
I think the accepted method is to use red rubber grease or silicone lubricant. Failing that I've never had much problem when I have used copper grease.
Copper grease is an anti seize compound and not suitable for lubricating moving bearing surfaces.GreenV8S said:
Copper grease is an anti seize compound and not suitable for lubricating moving bearing surfaces.
You are of course 100% right. But all I was getting at was that copper grease was used as the go to product for lubricating most brake components for many years in garages and never particularly caused any issues. Certainly that was the standard practice at the garages I worked in a a couple of decades ago.Don't use copper under any circumstances.
It gums up steel on steel and swells rubber. It's no good.
If the pins have rubber sleeves (anti rattle) or run in rubber sleeves then use red rubber grease.
If the pins are metal to metal with no rubber other than a boot then use black moly grease, lithium grease etc.
It gums up steel on steel and swells rubber. It's no good.
If the pins have rubber sleeves (anti rattle) or run in rubber sleeves then use red rubber grease.
If the pins are metal to metal with no rubber other than a boot then use black moly grease, lithium grease etc.
Krikkit said:
Yep, even bog-standard moly grease would be much better than copperslip.
Not trying to be argumentative, but that can also be problematic on bearings that don't move continuously. The active ingredient will try to plate the bearing surface and can end up forming a bridge that locks the two parts together. More of a problem on tight tolerance bearings but still not something you want happening in a slider.Am i right in thinking your version of CRV rear brakes are of the excellent drum inside disc park brake design (instead of the horrible self adjusting rear calipers used in Civics?), if so don't forget to whip the disc/drums off and make sure the shoes and friction area of the drum are clean, pivots and handbrake cable lubed correctly, then adjust shoes up when reassembled.
Agree with the others about lube.
Agree with the others about lube.
Smint said:
Am i right in thinking your version of CRV rear brakes are of the excellent drum inside disc park brake design (instead of the horrible self adjusting rear calipers used in Civics?), if so don't forget to whip the disc/drums off and make sure the shoes and friction area of the drum are clean, pivots and handbrake cable lubed correctly, then adjust shoes up when reassembled.
Agree with the others about lube.
You are right, and the discs are being replaced - one of them's off already, waiting for some impact sockets to be delivered before I can get the carrier off on the other side. Good point about attending to the handbrake gear as well, will do, thanks!Agree with the others about lube.
trickywoo said:
Silicone grease. Red rubber is ok but only has a temperature range up to 120c.
120c is far more the the slide pins should ever get to especially on a road carEven the main body of the caliper shouldn't get to the temp
Only the discs and pads should have any real heat unless really pressed on a track or elsewhere
GreenV8S said:
Chris32345 said:
120c is far more the the slide pins should ever get to especially on a road car

If the slider pins are getting to 120C then the temperature rating of the grease is the least of your problems.
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