Just about to buy a DBS - advice appreciated

[Thetiminator]

Hi everyone
I’m just about to pull the trigger on my first Aston, a DBS, 2010 with 25k miles.
I would really appreciate a bit of advice if you guys would be kind enough…
Firstly, although the car is very low mileage, there is a little bit of corrosion (maybe 1.0x0.5 inches) on both rear wings…just at the edge where it meets the rear windscreen. The dealer said he would sort it, but I just wanted to check that (as the dealer says) is common with the cars?

And generally, is there anything else I should watch out for?

Thanks guys…

[Dewi 2]

Paint bubbles are quite common, but usually on alloy panels, often doors, so not actual metal corrosion.
My initial thought with your corrosion, was rear wing.

On Vantage models, rear quarter panels are the only ones made of mild steel (magnet will attach). Don't know whether it is the same on DBS. Even so, not impossible to sort.

Great to find a lightly used example, although many Astons are not used as daily cars.
An exciting time.

[Caslad]

Check all the chrome, particularly the boot finisher. This is prone to corrosion & a pain to fix, not to mention the cost.

[Thetiminator]

Thanks guys. Yes IIRC that rear wing area is aluminium?

[leman600]

They are pretty reliable cars and have strong drive trains and mechanics.
It has to be remembered that a 12 year old car is still 12 years old when it is so beautiful and may look 3 years old.
Battery drain can be an issue often associated with the age of the tracker module. Ask if this is new or removed (physically and from the software)
If it's a main dealer then they can show you a print out of the cars health status re misfires etc. which is not common but potentially serious.
The brakes are extremely durable but very expensive to replace. At that mileage only if tracked or contaminants (usually in the form of incorrect cleaning products) could have caused an issue here.
My experience with my V12V (which is 80% a DBS) had been a positive experience and they are truly awesome cars. The 2010 era DBS is my favourite car in the whole range and is judged so well regarding slightly aggressive styling with beauty. It looks like it sounds.....
It's definitely a good car to choose to look for and one at that age and mileage should be a good experience with eyes wide open at buying time wether it be a main dealer or not.

[RobBucks]

I have one of these myself. Others have covered main points but common issues;

- Leather dash on passenger side coming away from its backing
- paint corrosion on edge of doors
- carbon disc condition - make sure nice polished surface
- fogging/misting to front and rear lights
- corrosion on the chrome strip on the boot
- brake caliper paint peel
- check for any damage to carbon front splitter and rear spoiler - v expensive.
- wear to leather seat bolster

[Thetiminator]

Thanks guys. On the subject of the brakes, generally under normal driving conditions, how long should the brakes last? And is it a case of you change discs and pads together? Or maybe the discs last longer than the pads?
You’ve all been very helpful…thanks!

[RobBucks]

Thetiminator said:

Thanks guys. On the subject of the brakes, generally under normal driving conditions, how long should the brakes last? And is it a case of you change discs and pads together? Or maybe the discs last longer than the pads?
You’ve all been very helpful…thanks!

The main thing with the brakes it that the carbon discs which are very expensive to replace. If you ask Aston they will say they will last for the 'life of the car'. Lots of different views on what that means and there are whole threads discussing this, but my understanding was that with 'normal' use (i.e. not taking it on track) you should be fine >60k miles.

[franki68]

Manual or auto ? If manual the clutch was quite soft and needed replacing On mine with 17k miles .
Panel gaps are atrocious ,and traction is woeful .Engine is just sublime
So beautiful though you can forgive its faults .

[Thetiminator]

It's an automatic, I just didn't fancy the manual (pain in the proverbial for cruising on long journeys). Bought the car this morning, delivery next week, can't wait

[franki68]

Thetiminator said:

It's an automatic, I just didn't fancy the manual (pain in the proverbial for cruising on long journeys). Bought the car this morning, delivery next week, can't wait

Enjoy .
I remember pulling alongside a friend in his then new Ferrari 458 spyder and I roll down the window and go ‘that’s beautiful congrats ‘ he replied ‘no …that’s beautiful ‘ pointing at my car .

[4Q]

Thetiminator said:

It's an automatic, I just didn't fancy the manual (pain in the proverbial for cruising on long journeys). Bought the car this morning, delivery next week, can't wait

Congratulations. I have the automatic too, in auto it’s a great GT car. Using the paddle shift it’s not much different to a manual except you don’t need to press a clutch before changing gear. I really don’t get how a manual is considered more of a drivers car because you have to use your left leg occasionally. I went for a spirited drive this weekend with a mix of Porsche GT3’s, a selection of Ferraris and a couple of lotus’ and although mine was probably the heaviest car there it had no issue keeping up.

[Thetiminator]

Looks like a good day out indeed!

I use the paddle shifts in my every day car, so I deliberately went for an auto. Manuals are just too much like work at my age lol.

One other question guys - I pick the car up tomorrow and just wondered about using 97-98RON fuel (which I always use in all my cars), but did I read somewhere that you have to use just the standard 95RON with the DBS?

Thanks again guys…

[Caslad]

I don’t think it’s a case of having to use the lower octane fuel, more a case of no benefit from using the higher (& more expensive) octane fuel.
Something to do with the older V12s lacking anti-knock sensors. I’m sure an engineer will be able to explain!

[F1 NDW]

I always put 98 super unleaded in mine (ESSO is the best as ESSO super sold south of Stafford has 0% ethanol).First point is 98 is only 0-5% ethanol. 95 is up to 10%. The higher the percentage of ethanol the less energy in the fuel, the poorer the performance and higher the fuel consumption. Ethanol also absorbs water, think of the consequences of that in the fuel system.

If you are using 95 in you daily driver I would think the only downside is the fuel consumption as you will be flushing the tank and system out regularly. However if its your rarely used Aston I just cringe at the thought of it sitting over the winter months with that half full tank of 10%ethanol fuel doing its worst in your fuel system.

[LTP]

Caslad said:

I don’t think it’s a case of having to use the lower octane fuel, more a case of no benefit from using the higher (& more expensive) octane fuel.
Something to do with the older V12s lacking anti-knock sensors. I’m sure an engineer will be able to explain!

It all depends what fuel the engine was calibrated with, so you really need to use the recommended grade.

I'm not a powertrain engineer, so this is my understanding - but I'm sure if I get this wrong somebody will step in:

• If the engine was calibrated for, and the recommended fuel is, say, 95 RON (Research Octane Number), then there will be no benefit (and no harm) from using 97 or 99 RON. Except to your wallet.
• If the engine was calibrated for 99 RON and it doesn't have knock sensors then using a lower-octane fuel could create detonation at high engine loads, which is not good for the engine. If forced to use lower octane fuel in these cases then put in the minimum amount of fuel you can get away with, avoid full throttle or lugging the engine and fill up with the correct, higher-octane fuel as soon as you can to increase the overall octane value in the tank.
• I believe most, if not all, of the N/A AM V12's do not have a knock sensing system
• If you have an engine with knock sensing (like my V8V) you can use lower octane fuel, as the knock system will sense any detonation and retard the ignition to compensate, but you will lose a little power. I never use RON 95, even though I could
• To get max power, and minimise the chance of damage, use the octane rating the engine was designed for. It's usually on the fuel flap.
• Some countries use MON or AKI rating as an alternative to RON - the numbers are different with RON having a slightly higher number for the same fuel (by 4 - 6 units), so 91 AKI will be about 95 RON
• Don't use E10 fuel if your car isn't designed for it, no matter what the octane rating. As said above, if your car is only OK with E5 then use E5 99 RON not E10 RON 95

Edited by LTP on Tuesday 16th August 17:23

[Dewi 2]

If you want to avoid the consequences of ethanol and therefore use ESSO Supreme +, do not be confused when you see E5 on the pump.

I understand that the definition of E5 on the label, means up to 5% ethanol. Zero of course being, 'up to' 5%.

I use it in all my cars and importantly, the lawn mower, which really hates ethanol.

[Thetiminator]

Thanks guys. I’m just wondering if it would do the engine any harm using 97-98? If not I would use it by default….

[Jon39]

Thetiminator said:

Thanks guys. I’m just wondering if it would do the engine any harm using 97-98? If not I would use it by default….

I don't know, but I know someone who does.
Here is the opinion of a person, who was an Aston Martin engine development engineer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOxxPYLhBhM


EDIT - That was mostly about ethanol, but I recall there is also a video about octane.

Edited by Jon39 on Tuesday 16th August 19:38

[EVR]

Forgetting for a minute detonation, ethanol and knocking sensors, I am under the impression that higher RON fuel also has additives and cleaners embedded, while lower RON does not; hence keeping the whole fuel system (from tank to combustion chambers) cleaner and in better shape.

Is this just a myth?