Discussion
New to Chimaera ownership and after reading through forums.... I know I am opening a can of worms.
Many recommending 20W50, with others opting for a fully synthetic. Looking through my paperwork for my new car, the last oil used was a 10W40 semi syn. A service is due and I need to change the oil. I work in the oil industry and will be putting our Aztec Classic Sprint 20W50 in my Chimaera 500. Zinc PPM 1250 (minimum).
Interested to gather people's thoughts.
Many recommending 20W50, with others opting for a fully synthetic. Looking through my paperwork for my new car, the last oil used was a 10W40 semi syn. A service is due and I need to change the oil. I work in the oil industry and will be putting our Aztec Classic Sprint 20W50 in my Chimaera 500. Zinc PPM 1250 (minimum).
Interested to gather people's thoughts.
A can of worms indeed - stand by to be baffled by science 
You might have already weighed up the pros & cons of ZDDP, but my understanding is that it can damage catalytic converters, though I'd certainly agree on a high-level zddp for a pre-cat RV8 (ie the old Rovers etc).
You will be various advice to use 5/40, 10/40, 20/50, 10/50, 10/60, fully and semi-synthetic.
I've had mine for 20-years and have used numerous grades over the years (don't track it) and started with and eventually went back to 10/40. Oil is changed at no more than 2,000mile intervals or even much less, primarily because I don't do many miles.
You might have already weighed up the pros & cons of ZDDP, but my understanding is that it can damage catalytic converters, though I'd certainly agree on a high-level zddp for a pre-cat RV8 (ie the old Rovers etc).
You will be various advice to use 5/40, 10/40, 20/50, 10/50, 10/60, fully and semi-synthetic.
I've had mine for 20-years and have used numerous grades over the years (don't track it) and started with and eventually went back to 10/40. Oil is changed at no more than 2,000mile intervals or even much less, primarily because I don't do many miles.
TarquinMX5 said:
A can of worms indeed - stand by to be baffled by science
You might have already weighed up the pros & cons of ZDDP, but my understanding is that it can damage catalytic converters, though I'd certainly agree on a high-level zddp for a pre-cat RV8 (ie the old Rovers etc).
You will be various advice to use 5/40, 10/40, 20/50, 10/50, 10/60, fully and semi-synthetic.
I've had mine for 20-years and have used numerous grades over the years (don't track it) and started with and eventually went back to 10/40. Oil is changed at no more than 2,000mile intervals or even much less, primarily because I don't do many miles.
This every time ^^^^^^^^ You might have already weighed up the pros & cons of ZDDP, but my understanding is that it can damage catalytic converters, though I'd certainly agree on a high-level zddp for a pre-cat RV8 (ie the old Rovers etc).
You will be various advice to use 5/40, 10/40, 20/50, 10/50, 10/60, fully and semi-synthetic.
I've had mine for 20-years and have used numerous grades over the years (don't track it) and started with and eventually went back to 10/40. Oil is changed at no more than 2,000mile intervals or even much less, primarily because I don't do many miles.
A can of worms indeed.
As others have said a good quality 10w40 semi synthetic is ideal.
I change mine twice a year and do under 3000 miles.
A bit over the top some of you might think but i usually buy this for around £30.00 for 5ltrs
£20.00 for 2 new filters, so all in for £80.00 a year........well worth it.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/mobil-super-2000-x1...
As others have said a good quality 10w40 semi synthetic is ideal.
I change mine twice a year and do under 3000 miles.
A bit over the top some of you might think but i usually buy this for around £30.00 for 5ltrs
£20.00 for 2 new filters, so all in for £80.00 a year........well worth it.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/mobil-super-2000-x1...
for Valvoline VR1 20/50We normally stick Millers 10/50 in cars and that's what we're using in the engines we're putting together. We decided on 10/50 for the cold start protection and the higher weight helping in traffic and hot weather to maintain pressure, even on cars with oil coolers. Did some experimenting on a couple of RV8 TVRs and a Morgan Plus 8, including my car which I've managed some 30,000 miles in the past 2 years driving hard and almost every day some weeks.
Of course despite the research, testing, oil sampling and boroscoping, someone will tell me that we're wrong because it's the classic opinionated question
For the way most people drive a TVR (which is not balls to the wall), I don't think it would make a difference in someone's typical ownership length. If they drive it hard or in traffic then there's probably a different story to tell.
Of course despite the research, testing, oil sampling and boroscoping, someone will tell me that we're wrong because it's the classic opinionated question
For the way most people drive a TVR (which is not balls to the wall), I don't think it would make a difference in someone's typical ownership length. If they drive it hard or in traffic then there's probably a different story to tell.
I used Mobil 1 cos that's what it said under the bonnet.
Mind, the oil never got very old as all my TVRs used a litre of oil every 1,000 miles. That meant most of it had been changed before the service! Damn clever those TVRs.
I should also add maybe 300,000 miles with no engine issues. (Not in the same car
)
Mind, the oil never got very old as all my TVRs used a litre of oil every 1,000 miles. That meant most of it had been changed before the service! Damn clever those TVRs.
I should also add maybe 300,000 miles with no engine issues. (Not in the same car
)
Hi all,
Just changed my oil and used a heavier grade (Millers Classic Pistoneze 20/50) for the first time. The heavier grade has help with a hydraulic lifter that used to drain down and tap for the first 5 seconds on staartup, but I can’t help but feel the heavier grade is harder work on the oil pump as oil pressure is very high (80 psi) until up to operating temp ( drops back to 40-50 psi) and I feel there is a loss of power until everything is up to full op temp of c 90 degrees.
Interested i your thoughts? May go back to a slightly lighter oil next time.
C
Just changed my oil and used a heavier grade (Millers Classic Pistoneze 20/50) for the first time. The heavier grade has help with a hydraulic lifter that used to drain down and tap for the first 5 seconds on staartup, but I can’t help but feel the heavier grade is harder work on the oil pump as oil pressure is very high (80 psi) until up to operating temp ( drops back to 40-50 psi) and I feel there is a loss of power until everything is up to full op temp of c 90 degrees.
Interested i your thoughts? May go back to a slightly lighter oil next time.
C
Macbags said:
Hi all,
Just changed my oil and used a heavier grade (Millers Classic Pistoneze 20/50) for the first time. The heavier grade has help with a hydraulic lifter that used to drain down and tap for the first 5 seconds on staartup, but I can’t help but feel the heavier grade is harder work on the oil pump as oil pressure is very high (80 psi) until up to operating temp ( drops back to 40-50 psi) and I feel there is a loss of power until everything is up to full op temp of c 90 degrees.
Interested i your thoughts? May go back to a slightly lighter oil next time.
C
Totally correct assessment imho Just changed my oil and used a heavier grade (Millers Classic Pistoneze 20/50) for the first time. The heavier grade has help with a hydraulic lifter that used to drain down and tap for the first 5 seconds on staartup, but I can’t help but feel the heavier grade is harder work on the oil pump as oil pressure is very high (80 psi) until up to operating temp ( drops back to 40-50 psi) and I feel there is a loss of power until everything is up to full op temp of c 90 degrees.
Interested i your thoughts? May go back to a slightly lighter oil next time.
C
10/40 adds power
high pressure doesn’t mean hi flow if the oils thick and slow to get there especially when the oils cold which is when you want that flow the most! I’m using millers 10w/40 semi synthetic on a Powers rebuilt engine and it’s quiet as a mouse.
Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 23 August 18:03
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